Enclosure for AN super 8 - diyAudio
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Old 19th November 2007, 07:28 AM   #1
ippo112 is offline ippo112  Italy
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Default Enclosure for AN super 8

Hi,
I bought a pair of AN super 8 in germany but unfortunately there are no construction plans.
I need help to build the enclosure.
I listen Jazz, pop and this is my first DIY project, so I prefer a simple project (NO HORN or TQWT).
What type of enclosure would you suggest between Bass reflex, double bass reflex and MLTL?
Someone can send me the construction plans of the enclosure ?

thanks in advance,

luca t.
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Old 25th November 2007, 05:47 PM   #2
ippo112 is offline ippo112  Italy
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nobody can suggest me an example of constructions plans for "AN super 8"?

thanks,
luca t.
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Old 25th November 2007, 06:53 PM   #3
jimluu is offline jimluu  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by ippo112
nobody can suggest me an example of constructions plans for "AN super 8"?

thanks,
luca t.
Try calling David Dicks and explain your situation. He gives away free plans with purchase directly from his website.
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Old 25th November 2007, 09:03 PM   #4
ippo112 is offline ippo112  Italy
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David on-line shop will be closed for vacation until December 6, and also I just bought the speakers from another shop in germany without plans.
If someone have it and send me via mail ...I'll very happy.

luca
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Old 27th November 2007, 11:25 AM   #5
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I'm not sure I'd be wanting the Commonsenseaudio cabinet designs. They don't appear to use a lot of common sense, and will be spectacularly mistuned.

You could try this MLTL.

45in x 13.5inx 9.5in (HxWxD all dimensions given internally). Driver centre 15in down from the top. 3in diameter, 1in long vent, centre 2in up from the bottom. Stuff 0.25lbs ft^3 of hollow-fibre material from the top 17in down, or alternatively, line the top, back and one side-wall to approximately the same height. 3ohms of series resistance need to be added to get the driver's response into line in this (or other) vented boxes. This should also help bring it's rising response over 1Khz down a bit -the basic balance of this driver is better suited to a front-horn or a very long, slowly expanding BLH (hyperbolic or catenoid flare) IMO.
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Old 16th February 2011, 10:44 AM   #6
wynnett is offline wynnett  United States
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Hello,

I'm working on building this speaker. I'm living in Italy and I don't know how close I can get to a 3 inch pipe for the port. Am I correct in assuming the important thing here is the volume of air in the port? In that case I could use a smaller and longer tube or a larger and shorter tube to get the same effect as long as the air volume remains the same, correct?

Thanks

Dan
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Old 16th February 2011, 12:46 PM   #7
hm is offline hm  Europe
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ippo112,
why you bought it, it is a horn driver if you see the data,
take BR calculator and make a BR enclosure, and take a filter
to slow down every thing over ~1kHz, much fun with only 1 mm stroke??!
If you are not able to built a horn, let it built, look my HP.
Or you made only AN advertisement?
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Old 16th February 2011, 03:52 PM   #8
GM is offline GM  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wynnett View Post
Hello,

I'm working on building this speaker. I'm living in Italy and I don't know how close I can get to a 3 inch pipe for the port. Am I correct in assuming the important thing here is the volume of air in the port? In that case I could use a smaller and longer tube or a larger and shorter tube to get the same effect as long as the air volume remains the same, correct?

Thanks

Dan
No, it's a function of vent area (Av) with its length setting the actual tuning, so the opposite is required to what you assume.

Anyway, RonE has periodically posted a vent scaling solution example:

square inch is a measurement of area
a circle with an area of 25 square inches is :
Area=pi*diameter^2/4
rearrange:
sqrt(4*Area/pi)=diameter
For your area of 25 square inches, the diameter is 5.64 inches, or 14.3 cm.

It is hard to make a round port a specific size, so you can scale your length, based on available port diameters.
L1/L2=A1/A2, where L1, A1 are the original length and area, and L2,A2 are the new length and area...
rearranging again, and Realizing that area is proportional to diameter squared, and entering your port data:
L2=15*(Diameter^2/5.64^2)

You input the diameter of the ports you can get, and from that you can get the new length.....


Note that normally you should go to the next largest diameter pipe if the length doesn't get too long to ensure that any potential vent distortion with the original diameter isn't appreciably increased by using a smaller/shorter one.

GM
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Old 16th February 2011, 04:21 PM   #9
ra7 is offline ra7  United States
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Dan,

Instead of the bass reflex, try a voight pipe cab which is a mix of BR, transmission line and horn. It is much easier to build that rear horn and gives better performance (IMO) than a BR.

The AN drivers really call out for a rear horn though. What you have is essentially a cheaper Lowther.
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Old 16th February 2011, 11:27 PM   #10
wynnett is offline wynnett  United States
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Thanks for the replies. This is no advertisement. I heard a pair of the ANs in some Fostex double br cabs and really liked them, and I need to put together a system for dirt cheap.

The voigt pipes are a bit extreme for my living room and i can't afford the material (nor have i the skills or tools) to build a real back horn. so i'm settling on this solution.

I'll let you guys know how it works out. Thanks again for your help.
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