I've been meaning to bring this subject up for awhile. For sometime I've been an advocate of damping/shaping the back of the baskets to get better performance.
In an effort to find alternates we started playing with something called Silent Running SR500. This is a latex damping compound that dries to a hard sandable & paintable finish. It turns out it doesn't totally replace ductseal (at least without some effort) but works in conjunction very well). This compound is repurposed from the boat-building industry.
I'm just going to start by throwing up a few pictures (i have a lot more, plus techniques i've come up with etc)
dave
In an effort to find alternates we started playing with something called Silent Running SR500. This is a latex damping compound that dries to a hard sandable & paintable finish. It turns out it doesn't totally replace ductseal (at least without some effort) but works in conjunction very well). This compound is repurposed from the boat-building industry.
I'm just going to start by throwing up a few pictures (i have a lot more, plus techniques i've come up with etc)
dave
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BHD said:
The duct seal won't go to waste. The SR500 is "painted on". To fill the magnet/basket space on the FE108eS took over 50 applications over a period of 4 or 5 months. Makes more sense to apply 3-10 coats and then fill the rest with ductseal.
Where it really comes into its own is to fill the open volume on the back of the stamped basket Fostex. This not only damps the basket, it quite dramatically increases its torsional ridgitity.
(the picture is a 167 just before painting over the SR500 and using ductseal to finish shaping the basket/magnet)
dave
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John L said:
Never used modeling clay except to make ceramics... this is specially formulated to damp & silence, and to stick. It is a plastic compound and not made of "dirt" like modeling clay.
Modeling clay never struck me as a good material to treat baskets with.
dave
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What do these basket mods do?
Better yet, in what frequency ranges are the effects, if that is a legitimate question?
Just curious about whether these are mods best for FR drivers, or if woofers might benefit, too. Used to do stuff like this years ago with tar on FR drivers and horns. But never tried it nor heard it on LF drivers.
Better yet, in what frequency ranges are the effects, if that is a legitimate question?
Just curious about whether these are mods best for FR drivers, or if woofers might benefit, too. Used to do stuff like this years ago with tar on FR drivers and horns. But never tried it nor heard it on LF drivers.
planet10 said:
Dave,
I've used oil-based modelling clay which isn't bad at all. It's non-hardening and isn't used for ceramics. I happen to like your use of ductseal which is better, but the oil-based modelling clay works quite well. It sticks pretty good and can also be used for mass loading/damping the walls of a cabinet. For extra mass, just mix in and knead #9 lead shot followed by rolling in out with your wife's favorite rolling pin for a uniform thickness and press it
against the inside panels.
I've also used pulverized lime (used to mark playing fields) and epoxy to make a dough that can be applied to the junction of the frame and magnet. The Pulverized Lime is a fine powder, don't buy the stuff that has lumps and chunks in it! Sands fairly well and is quite stiff. However, we're not talking about "days" to apply it, as the exopy sets up in a reasonable amount of time. It runs about $3 or $4 for a 40lb bag (IOW: a life-time supply) plus whatever you paid for the epoxy. Any excess lime can always be used to green up your lawn if spread lightly (and evenly) on the grass in the Spring.
Best Regards,
TerryO
Another thought came to mind. While it's been mentioned before on this forum, glueing felt to the inside of the frame spokes, and around the magnet assembly (including the sides) seems to help a bit. I like Aleene's Original Tacky Glue for this, as it never completely hardens, and provides a small amount of damping AFAIK.
Best Regards,
TerryO
Best Regards,
TerryO
TerryO said:
I'm glad that you mentioned that fact. I was hesitant to carry on, because I may be regarded as being 'smart' or 'cheap'. Having worked with ceramics in the past and thrown more than a few cylinders on the wheel, I was also familiar with oil based modeling clay, which remain soft and pliable for a long time.
It has a lot of good qualities akin to the material mentioned above, in that it adds mass that can be further tailored, removed, etc. No smartalic intent there.
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