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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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I'm starting this so there is a dedicated place for people who have, or want to build Harvey and related speakers both to take some load off the "spawn" thread, and to collect information relevant to these speakers in one place -- in the spirit of the chang thread.
I will be starting my pair of Harvey 1.1s this weekend -- my first speaker project in nearly 25 years, and although I've read through the entire spawn thread, I still have some questions particular to this design. Just to start, my pair will be built in baltic birch using beech mortises for joining the sides, and will be built for a pair of Fostex F120A drivers. So, my first question is if there are any general tips, hints, do's and don'ts, and any other suggestions folks may have. Especially helpful at this stage would be some sort of description of recommended building sequences. We can get to things like tuning, finishing, etc. later. Thanks, Jim |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
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Build a jig for the port.
It's 3/8 wide and 1/4" from the back... I'll send a jpeg of the jig. I built the center section as a complete unit. I'll send a jpeg My supplier of Baltic Bich didnt have 19mm (3/4") so I had to use 18mm...This did change a few things. Phil Santa Fe 505 466 7575h
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Phil Santa Fe |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
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The spacers
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Phil Santa Fe |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
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Spacers
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Phil Santa Fe |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
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Photo
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Phil Santa Fe |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
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I'm not sure if this is the best way to procede but it seems to be working for me.
The idea of trying to build the center and glue it to the side at the same time was too scary. So I drew out the layout on some FLAT plywood and started. The first to be done were the inside baffles that made up the CC. Those need to be spot on. Make sure that are square to each other and to the base. I let them dry over night. PS I cut my flat pack first hoping the angles would be in the ballpark...they were. I used a homemade tendon jig to cut the angles. I am waiting to cut the out sides untill I have an exact measurement re the overall width. Thats where the 18mm thickness will bite you in the ***.
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Phil Santa Fe |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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My build does not look nearly as good as yours, but I also built the center first and then glued the whole thing to the side. If I screwed up on something I needed to have an out without wasting so much wood.
They look difficult to build, but they were my first wood working project period and it was not too bad. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
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This jig is made from 3/4" plawood. You simply clap on your part that needs an angle (2 clamps) adjust the rip fence to the right distance and set the angle on the saw blade. Because it about 2 feet long you can cut large parts. Make sure the work piece is square to the table as you snug up the clamps. The cool thing is the cut is totally repeatable and perfect.
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Phil Santa Fe |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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Phil,
Great, thanks. Since I can't see any of the pix, I'll have my friends take a look, and maybe I'll print a few of these up to have in the shop. Thanks, Jim |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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build yourself an army of cam clamps like these. very cheap to build.
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