IIRC, the ledges TC put in were primarily to support a grill based on a frame of 3/4in particleboard, to stop the cabinet becoming a rubbish bin, though they undoubtedly had the effect you describe Greg. I know that he lined the final part of his original 1354 box, just as Fostex suggested for the design:
'...I notice that by lining the output of the top end of the speaker with an inch thick layer and down about 8" seems to help dampen the ripple effect a little. TC.'
'...I notice that by lining the output of the top end of the speaker with an inch thick layer and down about 8" seems to help dampen the ripple effect a little. TC.'
Greetings,
Here are the t/s parameters for a B20FU driver as measured by Jack from NHT. There are no units associated with the parameters which introduces some confusion. I've included the standard metric units below in parenthesis with a question mark to indicate a final determination has not yet been made.
Please give these an eyeball and help to confirm my assumed units are correct.
Re = 6.17 ohm
Diameter = 165 mm
DriveLevel = 20 mV
Fs = 37.66 Hz
Qms = 2.544
Qes = .524
Qts = .435
Vas = 96.27 (L?)
Cms = .0015 (m/N?)
Mms = 11.91 (g?)
Mair = 1.77 (g?)
BL = 5.76 (Tm?)
SPL = 91.74 (1w or 2.83v?)
No = .94 (%/100?)
Zmax = 36.12 ohm
Sd = .021382 (m^2?)
- Matt
Here are the t/s parameters for a B20FU driver as measured by Jack from NHT. There are no units associated with the parameters which introduces some confusion. I've included the standard metric units below in parenthesis with a question mark to indicate a final determination has not yet been made.
Please give these an eyeball and help to confirm my assumed units are correct.
Re = 6.17 ohm
Diameter = 165 mm
DriveLevel = 20 mV
Fs = 37.66 Hz
Qms = 2.544
Qes = .524
Qts = .435
Vas = 96.27 (L?)
Cms = .0015 (m/N?)
Mms = 11.91 (g?)
Mair = 1.77 (g?)
BL = 5.76 (Tm?)
SPL = 91.74 (1w or 2.83v?)
No = .94 (%/100?)
Zmax = 36.12 ohm
Sd = .021382 (m^2?)
- Matt
Attachments
Mark & i have been working on an update of the BOFU BIB plans... they aren't done yet, but they are close enuff to get a wider set of QC & suggestions.
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/BOFU-BIB-plans-311007.pdf
dave
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/BOFU-BIB-plans-311007.pdf
dave
GCDOB (Garage cabinet door open baffle)
I'm going to cut holes in the doors of a couple of cabinets in my garage and stick the BuFus in backwards so I can listen with the doors open - open baffle on three sides...
The nice thing is that if I like it I can tweak endlessly - hinge pins, angle, brace to back wall, la la la...
Depending on what I hear I might try my old Velodyne 18" behemoth for the bottom end
tim
slomatt said:
I'm going to cut holes in the doors of a couple of cabinets in my garage and stick the BuFus in backwards so I can listen with the doors open - open baffle on three sides...
The nice thing is that if I like it I can tweak endlessly - hinge pins, angle, brace to back wall, la la la...
Depending on what I hear I might try my old Velodyne 18" behemoth for the bottom end
tim
John L
The BIB is the Earth Shatteringest. The footprint isn't really THAT big, and it can be stuck in the corner, covered in nice wood and have trim at the top and bottom.... Nice effortless, tuneful bass...
Dave- I see it now! it is pretty concentrated.
Panel Info: Maybe something like this?:
The majority of horn type speaker builders seem to prefer a hardwood, void free 3/4" plywood, which should work very well for this design. However, if you want to keep the total cost for the pair at under $100 in the spirit of the low cost drivers, then you should do as we did and use 3/4" OSB or "flakeboard". It cannot have tongue and groove edges if you are to use the cutting diagram. The sound is very good with this material, and it could be color stained and varnished in an attractive or at least entertaining manner.
The BIB is the Earth Shatteringest. The footprint isn't really THAT big, and it can be stuck in the corner, covered in nice wood and have trim at the top and bottom.... Nice effortless, tuneful bass...
Dave- I see it now! it is pretty concentrated.
Panel Info: Maybe something like this?:
The majority of horn type speaker builders seem to prefer a hardwood, void free 3/4" plywood, which should work very well for this design. However, if you want to keep the total cost for the pair at under $100 in the spirit of the low cost drivers, then you should do as we did and use 3/4" OSB or "flakeboard". It cannot have tongue and groove edges if you are to use the cutting diagram. The sound is very good with this material, and it could be color stained and varnished in an attractive or at least entertaining manner.
I moved some of the posts on this thread about the 8" Pioneer BOFU driver generally , to here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=60632
Just thought that it was better to keep info related to the driver in other cabinets in one place for everyone to use. The driver works in lots of configurations so it is nice to encourage that I think
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=60632
Just thought that it was better to keep info related to the driver in other cabinets in one place for everyone to use. The driver works in lots of configurations so it is nice to encourage that I think
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