MLTL minus correction circuit

[Shae]

hi, does anyone here have much experience with the martin j king fostex fe206e MLTL design -

http://www.quarter-wave.com/Project05/Project05.html

my question is; not being much of a circuit person (apprenctice carpenter) would it be feasible to build the MLTL design with the fe206e but omit the correction circuit? has anyone tried this out? Or would this idea destroy the design? any advice would be appreciated

[Scottmoose]

Well, your ears might start bleeding after a few minutes of listening. The 206 needs correction to work properly in a resonant box. You might get away with it if you can get them near a rear wall and / or corners, tweak the positions so they're a few degrees off-axis, and add 3 - 4 ohms of series resistance. The circuits aren't difficult to make though -there's only 4 components & Martin provides all the values & the diagram.

[Shae]

ah i see. well thanks for the advice scottmoose, you have been invaluable throughout my research into full range speakers. but lazyness has triumphed again, and i shall forsake the MLTL and focus my efforts on a pair of ML TQWT's (looks like a separate subwoofer will have to go in place of larger drivers). thanks again for your advice!

[Scottmoose]

99.99% of ML TQWT need a BSC circuit too, unless positioned as I indicated above. As do FR units if mounted in a bass reflex, sealed box, transmission line, aperiodic enclosure etc., if you want to run them fairly low.

'Laziness triumps again'? Ye Gods. Is it really such a hardship to to solder two components in parallel in the + lead (and an optional two components across the + & - leads)? Rocket science it isn't. Before reaching the driver you break the + lead. You take two small pieces of wire, which are attached to one end of the + lead. One of these you solder to one end of an inductor, the other you solder to one end of a resistor. You then take an additional two pieces of wire, one soldered to the opposite end of the inductor, the other soldered to the opposite end of the resistor, and the free ends connect back to the other section of the + lead. You could even use cold welds & crimp the wires together, so no soldering required. This is hardly going to cause great mental and physical strain.