How do you make a Supbrabaffle?

bluegti · 30th September 2007, 12:05 PM

In several posts I have read things like, "...may need a suprabaffle" or "... this could befefit from adding a suprabaffle", etc.

Assuming the baffle is round (I know there can be other shapes, but I'm starting with round), how much bigger do you make the baffle than the driver? e.g. If the driver is 6 inches, the baffle should be 9 inches.

How thick do you make the baffle? e.g. If you are using 18mm ply for the cabinet, use 36mm ply for the baffle.

The Fostex FE127E (and I assume most speakers) benefits from the having the hole chamfered to allow "breathing room" for the driver. If you double the thickness of the baffle by adding a suprabaffle, there won't be much room for breathing. Does the hole in the enclosure need to be larger than the hole for the driver?

How is the suprabaffle attached to the baffle?

Option 1: Drill holes to mount the driver through the suprabaffle and baffle. The screws hold both the suprabaffle and baffle to the enclosure.
Option 2: Glue the suprabaffle to the baffle. The speaker is mounted to the suprabaffle with screws.
Option 3: Screw the suprabaffle to the baffle. The speaker is mounted to the suprabaffle with screws.

Any other options?

Magura · 30th September 2007, 12:09 PM

I went for option No. 1.

The big deal is actually not the details you've mentioned, but to make the baffle itself. It needs to be made with a decreasing radius as you approach the outer edge. Now that's hard to do if you don't have some computer controlled machinery.

Magura

ronc · 30th September 2007, 12:46 PM

Does the hole in the enclosure need to be larger than the hole for the driver?

Yes. A thirty (30) degree angle cone appears to work best.

It needs to be made with a decreasing radius as you approach the outer edge.

Well, yes and no.

In a trapozidal baffle if there are trailing edges the wave wraps around and edge diffraction is sent rearward. If you reduce in area from the trailing edges, rearward, this would emulate an aerodynamic shape where the diffraction would be attenuated over the surface and end up at a point rearward.

In a perfect world it would be shaped like a water drop travelling thru the air and coming to a point at the rear on the outside contour. However it would take an extensive build to accomplish that.

ron

staggerlee · 30th September 2007, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ronc
It needs to be made with a decreasing radius as you approach the outer edge.

What do you mean by a decreasing radius? Honestly, that makes my head hurt!

Magura · 30th September 2007, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by staggerlee

What do you mean by a decreasing radius? Honestly, that makes my head hurt!

It means that the radius of the face of the baffle should be a Log function.

Magura

NICKEL · 1st October 2007, 07:58 AM

Most of it is explained here

supraBaffles & wavelaunch

resident · 1st October 2007, 07:22 PM

nickel, thanks for that!

planet10 · 3rd October 2007, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ronc
In a perfect world it would be shaped like a water drop travelling thru the air and coming to a point at the rear on the outside contour. However it would take an extensive build to accomplish that.

B&W spent a whole lot of money to verify that....

dave

planet10 · 3rd October 2007, 12:13 AM

Another shot...

30th September 2007, 12:05 PM	#1
bluegti diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Northern Virginia	How do you make a Supbrabaffle? In several posts I have read things like, "...may need a suprabaffle" or "... this could befefit from adding a suprabaffle", etc. Assuming the baffle is round (I know there can be other shapes, but I'm starting with round), how much bigger do you make the baffle than the driver? e.g. If the driver is 6 inches, the baffle should be 9 inches. How thick do you make the baffle? e.g. If you are using 18mm ply for the cabinet, use 36mm ply for the baffle. The Fostex FE127E (and I assume most speakers) benefits from the having the hole chamfered to allow "breathing room" for the driver. If you double the thickness of the baffle by adding a suprabaffle, there won't be much room for breathing. Does the hole in the enclosure need to be larger than the hole for the driver? How is the suprabaffle attached to the baffle? Option 1: Drill holes to mount the driver through the suprabaffle and baffle. The screws hold both the suprabaffle and baffle to the enclosure. Option 2: Glue the suprabaffle to the baffle. The speaker is mounted to the suprabaffle with screws. Option 3: Screw the suprabaffle to the baffle. The speaker is mounted to the suprabaffle with screws. Any other options?

30th September 2007, 12:09 PM	#2
Magura diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Denmark, Viborg	I went for option No. 1. The big deal is actually not the details you've mentioned, but to make the baffle itself. It needs to be made with a decreasing radius as you approach the outer edge. Now that's hard to do if you don't have some computer controlled machinery. Magura __________________ Everything is possible....to do the impossible just takes a little while longer. www.class-a-labs.com

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30th September 2007, 12:46 PM	#3
ronc diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2003	Does the hole in the enclosure need to be larger than the hole for the driver? Yes. A thirty (30) degree angle cone appears to work best. It needs to be made with a decreasing radius as you approach the outer edge. Well, yes and no. In a trapozidal baffle if there are trailing edges the wave wraps around and edge diffraction is sent rearward. If you reduce in area from the trailing edges, rearward, this would emulate an aerodynamic shape where the diffraction would be attenuated over the surface and end up at a point rearward. In a perfect world it would be shaped like a water drop travelling thru the air and coming to a point at the rear on the outside contour. However it would take an extensive build to accomplish that. ron

1st October 2007, 07:58 AM	#6
NICKEL diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2005	Most of it is explained here supraBaffles & wavelaunch

1st October 2007, 07:22 PM	#7
resident Account Disabled Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Earth	nickel, thanks for that!

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