5dB dip at 120Hz in my speakers? - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 20th September 2007, 11:38 PM   #11
cjv998 is offline cjv998  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by tinitus
I cant say really, but your 80hz xo point could be suspected to have some influence on this
I plan on switching to my subwoofer's crossover (versus the software-based one from my sound card) this weekend and seeing if that makes a difference. From the little bit I played around with it earlier, the sub's crossover sounded steeper, which would be better.
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Old 21st September 2007, 09:45 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by cjv998
So I guess that's why tower speakers have multiple midbass drivers? Makes a lot more sense now. I figured it was just to make them louder and more impressive-looking, but the floor-bounce issue explains it I guess. Anyway, I should have some time tomorrow to listen for a peak at around 250-300 Hz. If this is an issue with floor-bouncing, what can be done to fix it (if anything)?
Nope, it's fashion. These days everyone wants (or is told they want) tall, slim speakers with a small footprint, so big drivers are out (even 8in is considered 'large' by most commercial manufacturers). To get some reasonable bass heft multiple smaller drivers are used. Sometimes a single high-excursion small unit is used, but distortion is higher, so better to take the multiple unit approach. Better yet is to forget fashion and actually use a big driver full-stop. You can't fool mother nature. But most companies aren't going to do that, as they'd prefer to sell some of their products and remain in business.

Floor bounce is inevitable. Short of putting a load of damping on the floor in front of the speaker, tilting it back, or Eq-ing it out, there's not a whole lot that can be done. 99.9% of the time, it's innocuous, and frankly, not worth loosing much sleep over.
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Old 21st September 2007, 11:10 AM   #13
SY is offline SY  United States
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You left out the Allison approach, which deals not just with the floor bounce, but the total interference from all three nearby boundaries. It involves positioning the woofer close to two of the boundaries, then crossing over to the midrange at the right frequency and slope. Tilting won't make any significant difference at these wavelengths.

To my ears, getting rid of the interference notches makes a major difference in the naturalness of the bass.
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