Hello, I want to build the BIB for the 206e.
The internal dimension are:
25cm width, 219,2cm height, 34,9 depth. They are right?
I already have a 203x25 MDF panel that I use for paint, could I use it for internal baffle. For the rest of the enclosure I could use a nicer wood, but mdf is cheaper.
thank you
The internal dimension are:
25cm width, 219,2cm height, 34,9 depth. They are right?
I already have a 203x25 MDF panel that I use for paint, could I use it for internal baffle. For the rest of the enclosure I could use a nicer wood, but mdf is cheaper.
thank you
Of course. Or you could just use thin wire for both. Thin cable for speakers has its own issues (such as the clipping of transients when current demands are high) but these are outweighed by actually having some bass. 
As I say, an alternative is to add a small resistor in series with the driver. I prefer resistive wire though as it's two less connections per side (connections have caused more problems than wire ever has IMHO), and a ceramic won't actually behave in quite the same way as resistive cable.
As I say, an alternative is to add a small resistor in series with the driver. I prefer resistive wire though as it's two less connections per side (connections have caused more problems than wire ever has IMHO), and a ceramic won't actually behave in quite the same way as resistive cable.
Greets!
It is, but no doubt the smaller one was done by just trying different 'Sm' values until the sim looked a particular way, while my formula is calc'd from a much simplified formula that by my choice will normally yield an under-damped alignment to allow more tuning flexibility without excessively over-damping it. Indeed, back when I was designing/building similar type pipe horns without benefit of a simming program or T/S specs I used an even simpler formula that for a 39 Hz Fs 8" driver calc's ~8.4 ft^3 (~238 L) and I have no doubt it would perform very well in-room once fine tuned with some form of series resistance and acoustic damping (stuffing).
GM
It is, but no doubt the smaller one was done by just trying different 'Sm' values until the sim looked a particular way, while my formula is calc'd from a much simplified formula that by my choice will normally yield an under-damped alignment to allow more tuning flexibility without excessively over-damping it. Indeed, back when I was designing/building similar type pipe horns without benefit of a simming program or T/S specs I used an even simpler formula that for a 39 Hz Fs 8" driver calc's ~8.4 ft^3 (~238 L) and I have no doubt it would perform very well in-room once fine tuned with some form of series resistance and acoustic damping (stuffing).
GM
Actually, the box dims from your T/S based alignment are the smaller ones in this case Greg (which makes a bit of a change!). I think it dates from when I was using a very rough Sd - Vas - cabinet-height ratio to come up with a CSA for Sl. That's why I wasn't too worried & suggested it could simply be damped down.
Sorry, didn't see your response before I posted since I did mine off-line and copy/pasted it, then moved on. Anyway, I never cease to be amazed at how easily we 'see' what we want to, or expect to, 'see' regardless of the truth. I wrote this before popping in my contacts and 'read' ~191 L as ~91 L since my original sim in TC's 138" long pipe I was looking at had a ~78"^2 Sm, or 88.2 L Vb, which yields a very similar looking response to the original's 40-1354 one that I was trying to mimic in the early part of the BIB thread lest I 'rock too many boats' with my 'heretical' thoughts on pipe horn design. That, and the fact that many (most?) folks were/are more interested in a small footprint than the truly dynamic, wide BW reproduction I prefer.
I know what you mean Greg. The belief / illusion engine is alive and well. I got caught out by it myself last Tuesday, when I was teaching my drama class, and made myself look complete prat.
Heretical thoughts? Nah. TC's pipe was a good compromise, but not exactly the limit of what can be done with pipe-horns. Makes a very good and simple build for those who can't do anything more complicated (and my personal preference is for simple when it comes to BLHs anyway -hopefully less delay and smearing in the time domain for a start). If you've got more thoughts on the subject of pipe-horns of any description Greg, then I for one would be intrigued to hear them. Sorry I haven't emailed for so long too -I'm the world's worst correspndant, I know.
Cheers
Scott
Heretical thoughts? Nah. TC's pipe was a good compromise, but not exactly the limit of what can be done with pipe-horns. Makes a very good and simple build for those who can't do anything more complicated (and my personal preference is for simple when it comes to BLHs anyway -hopefully less delay and smearing in the time domain for a start). If you've got more thoughts on the subject of pipe-horns of any description Greg, then I for one would be intrigued to hear them. Sorry I haven't emailed for so long too -I'm the world's worst correspndant, I know.
Cheers
Scott
I was liking the fact that this enclosure is imponent.mhh but if either work fine I'll do the bigger because I like more the look.
In the store where I buyed the fostex I saw a lot of type of absorbing material. One it seems like the internal of the sofas, it's white, I think it called "sonof". Another is like the packaging of the eggs. What should I buy?
Where I put the absorbing? like picture 1, 2 or 3?
In the store where I buyed the fostex I saw a lot of type of absorbing material. One it seems like the internal of the sofas, it's white, I think it called "sonof". Another is like the packaging of the eggs. What should I buy?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Where I put the absorbing? like picture 1, 2 or 3?
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