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Old 27th August 2007, 03:39 AM   #1
HWV is offline HWV  United States
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Thumbs up Iris

The Iris cabinets are all together and running, one week after starting the build. Everything went along smoothly, thanks to the nice plans & drawings over at the frugal-horn site.

Click the image to open in full size.

I used 13 ply Baltic Birch plywood, kept the panel braces in, and filled the bottom angle deflector cavity with sand. Needless to say, they are kinda heavy! I may still add a bottom plinth for more stability and to bring the drivers up a little bit.
Click the image to open in full size.

The drivers are fe166es-r. I used them only because I had them. The driver cutout needs to be bigger (than shown on the plans) if you use these! The magnets are silly huge.
Click the image to open in full size.

To compensate for the wrong driver, I've added 2 ohms of series resistance to the drivers, along with my 'baffle step' cables (using info from here: http://sound.westhost.com/bafflestep.htm ) between the source and the amp.

I still need to line the inside of the chamber, but these things are sounding pretty good as-is - very big sound!

Click the image to open in full size.
Size comparison with stock fe103 cabinets.

Some more pics are here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/furtive...7601689106261/

Thanks to everyone for the great info and help that you've given me through reading the forums.

-Hans
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Old 27th August 2007, 08:32 AM   #2
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Hi Hans -lovely build. Very impressive indeed. This is one of the first Iris cabinets to be constructed & certainly the first with ES-Rs, so you're a bit of a trail-blazer here. Glad you like them.

The plinth is a good idea -I used one when I built the prototype Harvey's a year ago (oh boy, was it that long? I'm getting old ) It's worth experimenting with angling them backward slightly too.

Best wishes
Scott
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Old 28th August 2007, 12:54 AM   #3
HWV is offline HWV  United States
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Hi Scott, thanks for the compliments! I am glad you like them.
They'll be even nicer when I get around to putting a finish on them.

Quote:
Originally posted by Scottmoose
[It's worth experimenting with angling them backward slightly too.

Thanks for the tip; I'll try that out & see what happens.
I also snagged a sheet of open-cell egg crate foam from work to line the inside of the reflex chambers. Hopefully that will reduce the need for as much baffle-step compensation.

Best,
-Hans
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Old 28th August 2007, 01:05 AM   #4
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Nice job Hans!
I'd be very interested in hearing further developments and listening impressions as you get these broken in and tweaked...


7/10
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Old 28th August 2007, 03:45 AM   #5
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Nice

Do keep us apprised of the sonics as the drivers break-in and you get a chance to fine-tune them.

dave
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Old 28th August 2007, 04:48 AM   #6
HWV is offline HWV  United States
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Thanks 7/10's and Dave!

I am going to start off this post with the warning that any critical listening skills that I probably don't have are further compromised by the fact that my listening room (read: ground floor apartment) has a noise floor that is slightly below the level of a Fiat convertible traveling at 70mph on the freeway. Insulated walls and solid-core doors didn't seem to exist when they built this place. Not to mention c-141 flybys every ten minutes (I live near McChord AFB). Critical listening? Not so much.

Feeding them with a steady diet of bass-heavy stuff has been interesting- at first, there was nothing much happening. Now, after maybe 15-20 hours total, the bass is opening up rather well, much more balanced with the rest of the tones. It will need a subwoofer for the lowest notes, but they don't seem to be lean or thin sounding without a sub.

I'll probably take the 2ohm resistors out of the signal tomorrow & see what happens.

Lining the reflex chamber with egg-crate foam made all sorts of difference, too. That seemed to clear all sorts of things up, just as expected.

These speakers like to play LOUD. I am impressed. Normally I don't listen to music very loud, but with these I keep turning them up just to see what they'll do. Very cool!

Sorry if the post is a little disjointed; I am most certainly NOT the most eloquent writer on earth. As soon as I start typing, I lose track of the thought I wanted to type about.

Thanks again for the designs and plans; using the fe167e these enclosures should be a stunner right out of the box!

-Hans
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Old 28th August 2007, 08:12 AM   #7
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Hi Hans,

Yes, the lining can make quite a difference -depends on the driver, system & room as to how much. The egg-crate foam is good stuff for lining cabinets. I reckon you'll still want that bit of series resistance, but it'll be interesting to hear your impressions both with & without. They look pretty good to me even without a finish. Wish I could build them like that.

C141? That's the Starlifter isn't it?
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Old 28th August 2007, 11:57 AM   #8
fred76 is offline fred76  Philippines
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Wow. Excellent build... The plywood you used looks great. If you use a tube amp and somewhat thin gauge internal wiring you won't likely need the series R's. Congrats.

fred
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Old 28th August 2007, 12:31 PM   #9
gychang is offline gychang  United States
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Default Re: Iris

Quote:
Originally posted by HWV

Click the image to open in full size.

To compensate for the wrong driver, I've added 2 ohms of series resistance to the drivers
-Hans
Quote:
Originally posted by fred76
Wow. Excellent build... The plywood you used looks great. If you use a tube amp and somewhat thin gauge internal wiring you won't likely need the series R's. Congrats.

fred

-Hans: looks great. I noticed a thin driver wire, since I know nothing about electrons flowing thru the pipe, I usually use 18gauge speaker wire.

-fred: is there a "proper wire" for the internal wiring? I usually drive the speakers with t-amp, and use the same 18 gauge wires again...

can anyone find me a webpage for proper wire?, partsexpress or allelectronics are usual source for me.

gychang
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Old 28th August 2007, 01:51 PM   #10
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No, there's no such thing as 'proper' wire. It depends on your cabinet / driver / amp combination. Generally, a twisted pair of 24AWG conductors, extracted from a run of Cat 5 network cable, & then untwisted works well -that's what it looks like Hans has done from the picture (?), & I usually use something similar if it's for a run of 3m or less. If more, then solid core twin + earth mains cable is as good as anything I've come across. A thin wire adds a little series resistance, artificially raising the driver's Qe & propping up the LF.
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