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Old 23rd August 2007, 01:36 AM   #21
rbclark is offline rbclark  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by planet10


Cover/seal the other driver opening and install your port in the back (i'm guessing 2.25-2.75" long)

dave
That's it Dave! Most if it anyway... huge improvement! I'm listening to it right now and I can stand it - and it's only the right channel! Except for where it hits the low bass it sounds pretty good.

Shouty? Yes I think so. Didn't know what shouty was until now.

I've put a real crappy looking cover over the other driver & tweeter holes. It's temporary to see if I can get this guy to sound better. See attachment.

There' s still some bass that distorts and will need some work - but it's much improved! I had no idea what a difference sealing up the cabinet would make.

I still need to trim the port down to size. Right now, it's 6 inches long (2 inch diameter). I'm going to trim it back gradually so I can try to understand what it does to the sound.

How important is the cabinet seal? I didn't do anything to seal the cover plate on the front. Right now it's held on with 2 screws. Should I put some gasketing tape or sealing caulk between this quickie cover plate and the cabinet? I think I only want to do this if it's going to help the last bit of messed up bass. Otherwise, I plan to try them out for a while as are until I decide to do a nicer job and replace the entire front baffle or... go with the Spawn Iris's. I'm hoping that the port tuning will fix the last of the bass distortion.

Thanks!
Bob
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Old 23rd August 2007, 04:42 AM   #22
Nanook is offline Nanook  Canada
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Default sealing a cabinet

is real important. Remember that most high efficiency fullrangers have very small Xmax (the FE167E have an Xmax of .6mm).

Dave's FE167E s in a 15 litre cabinet are living happily in my brothers's house. Ask Dave about how many hours before the drivers get broken in (100 hours comes to mind).

seems like a 15 litre enclosure, with a 2" diameter X 2" long vent is the best (as Fostex suggests) BR. maybe get some 1 litre milk bottles (or quarts filled to the top would be close enough) and fill 'em with water or sand or whatever and put 'em in your encosures, as well as try the 2.0" ports.

Give the drivers a chance to break in. Then report back. Also, please, I hope you are using a suitable amp (T-amp or 10 watts or less tube amp, or smooth low dampening factor solid state). Do you have the Trends amp yet? As Scottmoose and other had pointed out to me high dampening amps are not good with full rangers, as has my own experiences with planet10 Fonkens (modified FE127 drivers)hope some of this helps

stew
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Old 23rd August 2007, 07:47 AM   #23
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Default Re: sealing a cabinet

Quote:
Originally posted by Nanook
(100 hours comes to mind).
That gets them past the awkward stage. They should keep getting a bit better over the next couple hundred... listening off axis might help, particularily in the early days.

Quote:
seems like a 15 litre enclosure, with a 2" diameter X 2" long vent is the best (as Fostex suggests) BR.
We tuned a bit lower 2.5" long port.

dave

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Old 24th August 2007, 02:59 AM   #24
rbclark is offline rbclark  United States
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Default Re: sealing a cabinet

Quote:
Originally posted by Nanook


Give the drivers a chance to break in. Then report back. Also, please, I hope you are using a suitable amp (T-amp or 10 watts or less tube amp, or smooth low dampening factor solid state). Do you have the Trends amp yet?

stew
Yes, I have the Trends Audio TA-10.1.

I've installed the FE167 in my other speaker cabinet - this time taking care to seal everything. Also cut the port down to 2.75". Sounds great! I'll go back and fix up the other now.

There's still just a little flutter in the bass, but only in certain parts of some music. I will give them time to break in and then check back.

Thanks everyone for the advice! Back in 100 hrs!

Bob
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