Curvy Chang thread

gychang · 15th August 2007, 03:12 AM

Scott and Dave has done a lots of work to create a beautiful work of art, starting with basic boxy design, shockingly simple to make (I am making one now just with a circular saw), they have created a curvy Chang cabinet.

Just beautiful and stylish.

I am hopeful all question re: Curvy Chang can be posted here so we can all follow.

gychang

original boxy Chang cabinet:

curvy Chang here:

bluegti · 15th August 2007, 03:45 AM

I really like the rendering by marce.

I'm still working on my Harvey's. If a curvy Harvey turns up, I may have to break down and build them just because they look so cool. I can't justify getting any more drivers right now otherwise I would build the Curvy Changs.

We'll have to work on the name though... Curvy Bruce, Curvy Harvey and Curvy Chang sounds like a couple of drag queens.

OzMikeH · 15th August 2007, 07:42 AM

Fat Chang? Fat is more Thai or Vietnamese I think.

Hey, what is the Korean ideogram for Chang?

OzMikeH · 15th August 2007, 08:32 AM

Some more numbers:
Curve radius 2011mm
Centre of curve to baffle: 28mm (1.1 inches)
narrow part in middle of side (Waist): 356mm
widest part of side: 511mm (7.2 inch extension)
Note: the side measurements are for a full depth side panel and a 240mm wide back panel.

For a recessed FE207E the driver brace is slightly less than 208mm deep. File it to fit then put some thin foam tape on it.

marce · 15th August 2007, 10:16 AM

Hi again,
must agree with GYChang, as soon as I saw the curvy chang I fell in love with its looks.
I've downloaded the new plans and will ponder over them. (NB Dave, the way I drew them in inventor is what gave me the silly angle, I should have looked and realised that it would be impossible to build to that accuracy and a sensible angle would be appropiate.)
Thinking about the back mounted treble, what I think I'll do if I go that way is have a circular insert with the FT17 rear mounted that bolts into a recess in the baffle. This way it will be possible to extract the tweeter without much trouble.

Scottmoose · 15th August 2007, 10:59 AM

Full set of CAD plans for flat & curved builds are now up on the Frugal-horn site if anyone didn't know: http://www.frugal-horn.com/spawn.html -scroll down to near the bottom.

OzMikeH · 15th August 2007, 11:43 AM

Marce, I like that idea. The horn assembly could be turned on a lathe easily. But how often would you need to extract the tweeter? If you had to replace it you could reach through the 180mm main driver hole.

If your're over 40 you may not need the tweeter with the FE206E. You high end hearing is most likely "relaxed" enough not to need it.

One question that hasn't been answered in detail is how to stuff it. "As a normal Bass reflex" was the answer. I must say loathe working with fibreglass and woll is hard to find here. I'd prefer polyester.

I'm guessing approx 20mm thick polyester on all internal surfaces, tacked in place with the odd staple. Keep it well clear of the ports, put a bit extra across the hump. Then it if sounds too dead tear it off one wall. Is that too much?

Scottmoose · 15th August 2007, 12:16 PM

I could have sworn I'd answered this somewhere -I must be getting old or something. I'd treat it as an MLTL & do what GM suggested to me for such boxes: line the internal top, rear (keeping the vents clear) and one sidewall with a suitable material, carpet underlay, stiff acoustic fibreglass like Bob Brines uses for his cabinets or something similar. That should do the job nicely.

gychang · 15th August 2007, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by OzMikeH
Fat Chang? Fat is more Thai or Vietnamese I think.

Hey, what is the Korean ideogram for Chang?

I am native Korean, although living in US >40yrs. How about Kimchee Chang? to keep it in humourous tone.

apologies for not mentioning contribution from ronc and not attributing curvy Chang graphics to marce.

gychang

marce · 15th August 2007, 01:47 PM

Scott, you'll be happy to know your not going mad, I asked you the same question on the WDUK thread (purest horn).
The other advantage of having the tweeter on a seperate baffle insert is that if I mess up when making it I dont ruin a whole baffle.

15th August 2007, 03:12 AM	#1
gychang Apa's DIY diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Phoenix, Arizona	Curvy Chang thread Scott and Dave has done a lots of work to create a beautiful work of art, starting with basic boxy design, shockingly simple to make (I am making one now just with a circular saw), they have created a curvy Chang cabinet. Just beautiful and stylish. I am hopeful all question re: Curvy Chang can be posted here so we can all follow. gychang original boxy Chang cabinet: curvy Chang here:

15th August 2007, 03:45 AM	#2
bluegti diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Northern Virginia	One of the best looking designs yet I really like the rendering by marce. I'm still working on my Harvey's. If a curvy Harvey turns up, I may have to break down and build them just because they look so cool. I can't justify getting any more drivers right now otherwise I would build the Curvy Changs. We'll have to work on the name though... Curvy Bruce, Curvy Harvey and Curvy Chang sounds like a couple of drag queens.

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15th August 2007, 07:42 AM	#3
OzMikeH diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	Fat Chang? Fat is more Thai or Vietnamese I think. Hey, what is the Korean ideogram for Chang?

15th August 2007, 08:32 AM	#4
OzMikeH diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	Some more numbers: Curve radius 2011mm Centre of curve to baffle: 28mm (1.1 inches) narrow part in middle of side (Waist): 356mm widest part of side: 511mm (7.2 inch extension) Note: the side measurements are for a full depth side panel and a 240mm wide back panel. For a recessed FE207E the driver brace is slightly less than 208mm deep. File it to fit then put some thin foam tape on it.

15th August 2007, 10:16 AM	#5
marce diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Blackburn, Lancs	Hi again, must agree with GYChang, as soon as I saw the curvy chang I fell in love with its looks. I've downloaded the new plans and will ponder over them. (NB Dave, the way I drew them in inventor is what gave me the silly angle, I should have looked and realised that it would be impossible to build to that accuracy and a sensible angle would be appropiate.) Thinking about the back mounted treble, what I think I'll do if I go that way is have a circular insert with the FT17 rear mounted that bolts into a recess in the baffle. This way it will be possible to extract the tweeter without much trouble.

15th August 2007, 10:59 AM	#6
Scottmoose diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: UK	Full set of CAD plans for flat & curved builds are now up on the Frugal-horn site if anyone didn't know: http://www.frugal-horn.com/spawn.html -scroll down to near the bottom.

15th August 2007, 11:43 AM	#7
OzMikeH diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	Marce, I like that idea. The horn assembly could be turned on a lathe easily. But how often would you need to extract the tweeter? If you had to replace it you could reach through the 180mm main driver hole. If your're over 40 you may not need the tweeter with the FE206E. You high end hearing is most likely "relaxed" enough not to need it. One question that hasn't been answered in detail is how to stuff it. "As a normal Bass reflex" was the answer. I must say loathe working with fibreglass and woll is hard to find here. I'd prefer polyester. I'm guessing approx 20mm thick polyester on all internal surfaces, tacked in place with the odd staple. Keep it well clear of the ports, put a bit extra across the hump. Then it if sounds too dead tear it off one wall. Is that too much?

15th August 2007, 12:16 PM	#8
Scottmoose diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: UK	I could have sworn I'd answered this somewhere -I must be getting old or something. I'd treat it as an MLTL & do what GM suggested to me for such boxes: line the internal top, rear (keeping the vents clear) and one sidewall with a suitable material, carpet underlay, stiff acoustic fibreglass like Bob Brines uses for his cabinets or something similar. That should do the job nicely.

15th August 2007, 01:47 PM	#10
marce diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Blackburn, Lancs	Scott, you'll be happy to know your not going mad, I asked you the same question on the WDUK thread (purest horn). The other advantage of having the tweeter on a seperate baffle insert is that if I mess up when making it I dont ruin a whole baffle.

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