Hi,
I'd like to order t-nut together with the fe126e driver. However, there are many choices available ( http://www.madisound.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=117_18_393 ), any one know which T-NUT one is for FE126E?
Thanks in advance!
I'd like to order t-nut together with the fe126e driver. However, there are many choices available ( http://www.madisound.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=117_18_393 ), any one know which T-NUT one is for FE126E?
Thanks in advance!
pwan said:Hi,
I'd like to order t-nut together with the fe126e driver. However, there are many choices available ( http://www.madisound.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=117_18_393 ), any one know which T-NUT one is for FE126E?
Thanks in advance!
I have t-nuts but I don't use them on the plywood, for the reason that the nut part may fall off, so I just use the regular black wooden screws.
gychang
I use T-Nuts (8-32?) but, before I sink them into the wood, I put a dollop of liquid nails (you can buy this or equivalent in 4 ounce squeeze tubes, like tooth paste) on the back side. They cinch up tight, and the glue means they're NOT going to come loose (even if I want them to).
Tom.
Tom.
I also do not like t-nuts. I use these screws with coarse threading on the ouside and M5 on the inside, don't know how they're called.
Here's a picture:
BTW this is a panel for mounting a Fostex208?
Here's a picture:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
BTW this is a panel for mounting a Fostex208?
A, T-nut! Love them or hate them.
I use them all of the time, in MDF, no less, and have no problems. The secret to using t-nuts is to properly seat them. First, assure that the tines are straight. If a tine is bent, it will fold up under the t-nut and not hold. This is particularly important in MDF, as the surface of MDF is quite a bit harder than plywood. Place the t-nut in the hole and run a bolt and washer into the t-nut. Pull the t-nut up tight, checking to assure that the tines do not fold. The t-nut will hold unless you hammer it out or use a 1/2 t-bar to set the driver bolts.
The inserts pictured above work fine in real wood and plywood, but not in MDF. They will crush and destroy the hole. In MDF, use these:
Bob
I use them all of the time, in MDF, no less, and have no problems. The secret to using t-nuts is to properly seat them. First, assure that the tines are straight. If a tine is bent, it will fold up under the t-nut and not hold. This is particularly important in MDF, as the surface of MDF is quite a bit harder than plywood. Place the t-nut in the hole and run a bolt and washer into the t-nut. Pull the t-nut up tight, checking to assure that the tines do not fold. The t-nut will hold unless you hammer it out or use a 1/2 t-bar to set the driver bolts.
The inserts pictured above work fine in real wood and plywood, but not in MDF. They will crush and destroy the hole. In MDF, use these:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Bob
Gerrit Boers said:I use these screws with coarse threading on the ouside and M5 on the inside, don't know how they're called.
Here's a picture:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Bob Brines said:
The inserts pictured above work fine in real wood and plywood, but not in MDF. They will crush and destroy the hole. In MDF, use these:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Bob
great ideas, thanks.
gychang
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