Mounting FE166E in a A166?

[cwujek]

I have looked at multiple methods of mounting these speakers, and I am having trouble finding an exact way to do this. Few questions:
1.) What is the exact width of the speaker cutout?
2.) What type of mounting hardware should I purchase?
3.) If these are to be rear loaded, is the baffle removable with screws or something in case one ever needs to repair the driver/replace with a different one?
I'm just overall unsure about how to go about mounting the FE166E, I have looked through the detailed Frugal-horn plans and it didn't even really address it there too much. Thanks,

Chris

Also, can anyone tell me the measurement in question in my attachment?

[ronc]

1: That info in on the madisound site.
2: Four (4) wood screws.( silcone seal the flange to the baffle)
3: Driver mounts on the front of the baffle.

ron

[cwujek]

Originally posted by ronc
1: That info in on the madisound site.
2: Four (4) wood screws.( silcone seal the flange to the baffle)
3: Driver mounts on the front of the baffle.

ron

Thanks ron. Just finished up all the preliminary cutting. This is my very first DIY speaker project, but it really looks good. I appreciate you answering my simple/newbish questions. Found an excellent local source for beautiful 3/4 voidless baltic birch, looks nice so far. I'll get some pictures up soon. For now, I think I will leave the baltic birch raw. But I see some dark rosewood veneer in the near future.....

[ronc]

You are welcome.

A BLH for a first time DIY? Now thats ambition!

The A166 will surprise you.

Found an excellent local source for beautiful 3/4 voidless baltic birch,

Treat your supplier very well, that stuff is getting hard to find.

ron

[cwujek]

Originally posted by ronc
You are welcome.

A BLH for a first time DIY? Now thats ambition!

The A166 will surprise you.

Found an excellent local source for beautiful 3/4 voidless baltic birch,

Treat your supplier very well, that stuff is getting hard to find.

ron

Yes, it has definitely been a challenge. Went and bought the last 5x5 sheet of 3/4 available, apparently the price is going to jump $20 per sheet with the next batch....I have one side completely glued on, I am wondering if I will need any stuffing? I thought I remember reading that none is needed, but I also thought I read about using a little stuffing behind where the FE166E sits? I'm sure it's not something to really worry about, but I figured I would ask anyways. Hopefully I will have some pictures up next week.

Chris

[bobmar]

Chris,
There are a few discrepancies in the plans on the Planet 10 site, you probably found by now. If you can find the original x,y coordinate drawing , they clarify these problems.
There are two numbers, 36.35 and 37.37 that are off by .9 inch probably due to some very difficult to read numbers in the x,y coordinate drawings dated 10-9-05. Both describe the position of the 2nd divider board .In the original drawing this was given as a point,(x6.98, x37.93), where 37.93 included the bottom piece of plywood, .7 inch. I think the 9 was read as a 0. If you add .7 to 36.35 you get 37.05, but if the 0 is really a 9, then it's 37.95. This is very convenient because if you take Ron's corrected numbers for the 2nd turn, the vertical position, and add (37.95+.35+4.46) you get the ceiling location given as (x5.7,y42.81).
The other problem was in the 2nd turn at the 45 degree position. The corrected numbers were given as: 4.05, 4.46 and 4.72. Following the drawing on the Planet 10 site, the dimension at the 45 degree position remains 4.05. The x,y co-ordinate drawing gives two points that reduce the .7 plywood to almost .5 which gives that position a dimension of 4.05 +.18 (is what I got). the two points are: x6.98,y37.93 and x7.58,y44.68.
The drawings on Planet 10 are a step up from the x, y co-ordinate drawings. The x,y's were fun to do, but once plotted you find you still need to make decisions about connecting the dots, as they didn't always line up.
Bob