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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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Hello,
No matter how many times IŽve failed in building open baffle speakers that I can live with I still canŽt get them out of my mind. It seems to be true that once you have tasted OB youŽll never go back to regular boxes... My latest attempt was a hybrid system with FE167E in 120x66cm oak baffles and SS8545 woofers in closed cabs integrated in the baffles. Sounded fairly good, but the big difference in driver efficiency called for biamping which took all the fun out of the hobby (Building amps is what I like best and I want my speakers to be compatible with every amp I build, not just my lousy four channel tube amp). FE167E isnŽt the best choice for open baffles either. I had a little break from hifi and DIY a while ago and when I got back it wasnŽt as fun as it used to be and I realised that the speakers was the problem, I couldnŽt just change things in the signal chain anymore since I was stuck with my active crossover/preamp and my 4 channel amp. The solution was to put the Fostex drivers back into their 24L BR boxes. Now I could experiment as much as I wanted with the rest of the system, but suddenly I began to miss the OB sound... For one reason or another I ordered a pair of CSS FR125s a couple of days ago, the idea is to build another hybrid system with them fullrangers in open baffles and a pair of Peerless 5,25" drivers in closed cabs for bass support. The sensitivity matches much better between these two drivers so hopefully I can get away with first order passive XO in the 200-300Hz range. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
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I've heard that the FR125 and WR125 make great OB's, which didn't surprise me the least bit, with their highish qts. Might need a simple notch filter tho, and beaming might be an issue. But, if you're used to full range drivers, maybe it won't bug you like it would me. But yeah, good choice with the FR125's! And I think they should work pretty well with the SS8545's too. Your xo sounds about right. Despite what others have said about the FR125's performance in the lower octaves, tests will show that it'll perform it's best roughly around 400Hz and up. I can't seem to find my reference atm for that tho. Maybe I'll stumble across it later. Goodluck with your project.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
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Just came across this one. Just another recommendation from an FR125 OB'er..
http://fullrangedriver.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=239 And this, lol.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CvmyHG5mmQA |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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I guess the XO freq. will be determined by what caps and inductors I can find i my junkbox, at least initially
The baffles in the first link looks pretty much like my previous ones, I used oak panels and piano hinges. I still have them around so what I will do is to move the wings over to new middle pieces. The wings are 160 and 200mm wide, and 300mm panels are also available. I think IŽll try with just the FR125Žs alone before I cut holes for the bass drivers. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
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Yeah, I absolutely LOVE the over all look of the CSS FR drivers, with their copper phase plugs, against real wood panels/veneers of that color. If and when I ever give in and buy a pair to play around with (which I probably will), that's definitely the look I'll go with. And yeah, I'd wait on bass drivers too. Only possible downside is that you might end up with a little procrastination with those Peerless woofers?
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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Quote:
I had some regrets about cutting holes for the Scanspeak woofers in my latest baffles, so IŽll be careful not to do the same mistake again. Separate "sub"woofer enclosures would be an option, but the distance between the drivers versus the high XO frequency might be a problem. The best way to know will is of course to find it out myself, so no woofers in the baffles to begin with! |
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#7 |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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FR125S should work really well if XOed above at least 150 Hz... we tried them in OB 2 diyFests ago and they run out of steam far too early in the bottom.
And keep in mind that it is pretty simple to dramatically improve the FRs performance -- so much so that i don't think i'll bother selling them without that tweak. dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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Well, IŽm getting more and more excited about these drivers without having heard them yet!
IŽve found a fairly big sheet of plywood that will be cut in two and used as test baffles the same minute the drivers arrive, oak is too expensive to use in prototypes Quote:
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#9 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
Puzzlecoat works a bit less effectively (and if you aren't really careful can end up having you glue the voice coial to the phase plug) dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sweden (Mora)
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Sounds interesting! IŽve read alot about coating drivers but never tried it myself.
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