Advice for Philips AD12202-M8

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I'll be getting my hands on a pair of Philips AD12202-M8 next week but can't seem to find the T/S specs on the web for it except the Fs of 45Hz. Does anyone have the rest of T/S information that they can share? Also, I'm wondering which type of enclosure will suit these drivers, a TL variant or BLH? I'm very new to diy speakers and can probably handle a simple TL variant design, but will probably have to engage an experienced woodworker for a more complex BLH design. I'm wondering if the MLTL-48 design listed at this website http://www.ejjordan.co.uk/diy/index.html will be suitable, or the Bruce BVR or Sachiko Nagaoka-Style enclosure. Will the triangular MLTL-48 design work as well? Thank you!

Having limited resources, I'll probably put the Altec 409-8 project on hold first.
 
I just found a spec sheet, but it is in German: http://www.rahaso.de/foren/msg.php?f=audiotreff_fullrange&idx=18657&

Here's a translation with the help of babel fish:

nominal impedance 8ohms
d.c. resistance of the moving coil 6.6ohms
load rating 100W
max load 150W
output 0.5W
resonant frequency 45Hz
through howling tension (lost in translation?) 9V
transmission range 50Hz - 19kHz
magnet material FXD
magnet diameter 124.6mm
magnet mass 990g
energy in the air gap 498mWs
magn. flow density 1110mT
air gap height 8mm
height of the moving coil 9.7mm
minor diameter 35mm
basket diameter 313.3mm
sound opening/free space 278/5mm
depth 135mm
mass of the loudspeaker 1650g
 

ICG

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Joined 2007
I have a pair of these chassis laying around here and I'm searching for TSP aswell. Unfortunately I don't have any more parameters than you already have.

I am a bit concerned about the tin basket, if you hit the basket with your fingers, a screwdriver or something else, it makes this high *tiiiing* bell-like sound. That is, probably, only if the chassis isn't mounted but I think it would be a good idea to glue some damping material (foam rubber?) onto the basket.

The enclosure on the link you've postet won't work because the speaker doesn't fit into the enclosure (not even nearly ;) ). To modify the scale would probably not be such a good idea either, just too many things are unknown jet about the drivers and the modified enclosure.

I guess the chances are higher to get these chassis get to work or let's say, 'sound halfway decent' if a new cabinet design is

I thought about trying a br/horn comination for the chassis.

Anyone with some ideas maybe? :confused:
 
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