As I said before, it's chalk & cheese -you can't really compare them because they are so different. Pipe horns like the BIB don't sound anything like the Fostex cabinet. You'll get very deep, taught bass from it, with inherently low distortion, but with far less directionality -they have a real dipole flavour to the LF.
Sachiko will have a similar presentation to the Fostex cabinet, but considerably larger & more efficient. I'd probably prefer that, but whether you would or not, only you can say!
Sachiko will have a similar presentation to the Fostex cabinet, but considerably larger & more efficient. I'd probably prefer that, but whether you would or not, only you can say!
I decided to do the Sachiko for the fantastic look and because if it's a little better than 208e sigma cabinet is fantastic...
The cut list, is correct? or am I missing something?
A 2 298x298
B 2 298x102
C 2 298x273
D 2 298x368
E 2 298x330
F 2 298x152
G 2 298x127
h 2 298x241
baffle 1 298x 1029
Def1 2 298x264
Def2 2 298x221
Def3 2 298x179
Def4 2 298x136
Def5 2 298x93
Def6 2 298x50
Back 1 298x1791
Top/Bottom 2 298x457
Sides 2 457x1829
One thing I don't understand is the panel A. It should touch the driver magnet with a tongue?
Look at attachment, what is tht thing( indicated by me with a black arrow)
thank you
The cut list, is correct? or am I missing something?
A 2 298x298
B 2 298x102
C 2 298x273
D 2 298x368
E 2 298x330
F 2 298x152
G 2 298x127
h 2 298x241
baffle 1 298x 1029
Def1 2 298x264
Def2 2 298x221
Def3 2 298x179
Def4 2 298x136
Def5 2 298x93
Def6 2 298x50
Back 1 298x1791
Top/Bottom 2 298x457
Sides 2 457x1829
One thing I don't understand is the panel A. It should touch the driver magnet with a tongue?
Look at attachment, what is tht thing( indicated by me with a black arrow)
thank you
Attachments
Panel A has the option of extentions to brace the rear of the magnet if you feel so inclined but it's not critical, just a tweak for people if they fancy trying it.
The angled piece you indicate is a strike panel to help angle the airflow into the bifurcated throats. There isn't currently a specific size. Personally, I'd probably take a 1in square-section, and cut it on the diagonal. Good luck with the project, and do keep us up-to-date on how it progresses.
Best
Scott
The angled piece you indicate is a strike panel to help angle the airflow into the bifurcated throats. There isn't currently a specific size. Personally, I'd probably take a 1in square-section, and cut it on the diagonal. Good luck with the project, and do keep us up-to-date on how it progresses.
Best
Scott
Tomorrow I'm going to big city so I also did a plan of BIB in case I don't find 19mm material.
do you think is correct? I mean the numbers of measures. all numbers are in inch ''
Material:
for horn: pine is good? chipboard better than MDF because it stores less energy, right?
for BIB: pine, poplar, chipboard, mdf? how they are?
why in the suggested cutplan of sachiko there are 4 BAFFLE instead of two?
do you think is correct? I mean the numbers of measures. all numbers are in inch ''
Material:
for horn: pine is good? chipboard better than MDF because it stores less energy, right?
for BIB: pine, poplar, chipboard, mdf? how they are?
why in the suggested cutplan of sachiko there are 4 BAFFLE instead of two?
Er, yes. 
You don't want a Zdriver location of 1/4 the cabinet length. If you're wanting a 70in tall box, then I'd be using 9in wide x 12.75in deep (internal, not including the baffle), Zdriver 30in. A+B+C = 6.25in.
Pine is nice (Terry Cain was a fan) but it needs to be well seasoned otherwise it's not such a good idea. That pine-board you can sometimes get might be quite good, if you can get it in the necessary sizes. Poplar is also supposed to be good -same thing applies though; needs to be properly seasoned, with a low moisture content and as few knots as possible. I suspect chipboard (particleboard) would be better than MDF for horn cabinets like these. A chipboard box with a pine / whatever baffle laminated to the front would likely work & look good too. Birch ply is generally the stuff to use if possible though, as ever.
No idea about the cutplan -I didn't do it. Which baffles are you refering to? The fronts? One sheet is an alternate layout, that might be it.
You don't want a Zdriver location of 1/4 the cabinet length. If you're wanting a 70in tall box, then I'd be using 9in wide x 12.75in deep (internal, not including the baffle), Zdriver 30in. A+B+C = 6.25in.
Pine is nice (Terry Cain was a fan) but it needs to be well seasoned otherwise it's not such a good idea. That pine-board you can sometimes get might be quite good, if you can get it in the necessary sizes. Poplar is also supposed to be good -same thing applies though; needs to be properly seasoned, with a low moisture content and as few knots as possible. I suspect chipboard (particleboard) would be better than MDF for horn cabinets like these. A chipboard box with a pine / whatever baffle laminated to the front would likely work & look good too. Birch ply is generally the stuff to use if possible though, as ever.
No idea about the cutplan -I didn't do it. Which baffles are you refering to? The fronts? One sheet is an alternate layout, that might be it.
I don't want to spend too money so BIB.
But I would like to understand how
Fostex FE206E
L = (Line length) 174"
Zdriver = Driver 35" down from sealed end of cabinet
Sm = 133.875"^2
Zdriver= ok 35 inch from the top the only thing i understand
If I want to build the cabinet as raccomended on BIB site what are the measures?
But I would like to understand how
Fostex FE206E
L = (Line length) 174"
Zdriver = Driver 35" down from sealed end of cabinet
Sm = 133.875"^2
Zdriver= ok 35 inch from the top the only thing i understand
If I want to build the cabinet as raccomended on BIB site what are the measures?
The room where I'm going to put BIB is 13squaremeter and is high about 3 meters. It's ok for loading ?
But looking at BIB FR they have a hole at 80-90hz of 10db. I know that it doesn't sound bad as it looks. But in my previous bass reflex boxes they had also a hole at 100hz but just 3db, and the voices and bass sounded thin also if I put them in the corner, I think it's because the bass of the pop music is around 70-100hz.
So why they shouldn't sound thing also the BIB?
Sorry for the many question but I don't want to waste money and time, I searched the forum but I didn't found opinion of people that used the fe206 with BIB.
thank you
But looking at BIB FR they have a hole at 80-90hz of 10db. I know that it doesn't sound bad as it looks. But in my previous bass reflex boxes they had also a hole at 100hz but just 3db, and the voices and bass sounded thin also if I put them in the corner, I think it's because the bass of the pop music is around 70-100hz.
So why they shouldn't sound thing also the BIB?
Sorry for the many question but I don't want to waste money and time, I searched the forum but I didn't found opinion of people that used the fe206 with BIB.
thank you
tomorrow night I will build one.
Where would you put the blinding post? On the front it isnt' good looking since you see the cable. On the backis nicer but you need long cable an it isn't good because it will increase the resistence( but I think it's impossible to hear the difference in sound, it can be only measured with instrument) Putting them nn the side it sucks....
Should I put absorbing material inside?
Where would you put the blinding post? On the front it isnt' good looking since you see the cable. On the backis nicer but you need long cable an it isn't good because it will increase the resistence( but I think it's impossible to hear the difference in sound, it can be only measured with instrument) Putting them nn the side it sucks....
Should I put absorbing material inside?
I tend to prefer placing the binding posts on the rear panel, near the base. To be honest, my main reason is simply so I don't have wires hanging in mid-air, which doesn't look so hot to my eyes.
The additional resistance will be small -depends what wire you're using. Ideally, it wants to be the same as the external speaker cable (although if you use 8AWG wire per channel, it might be a trifle tricky to solder it to the driver... ) but YMMV as always.
Another way is to place the binding posts on the rear panel at the same height as the driver, drill a small hole through the internal baffle to feed the wire through, and then seal it with plenty of sillicone sealent, caulking or similar.
For the damping, I'd either a) lightly stuff the point above the driver, place some felt behind it, and place a nice layer of stuffing about 1in deep on the base, or b) line the front of the internal baffle, and one side-wall, to just below the driver with stiff fiberglass if you can find it, and place the same on the base. Because they use the room a lot, it's pretty much a case of getting them in position, and then stuff / damp to taste.
The additional resistance will be small -depends what wire you're using. Ideally, it wants to be the same as the external speaker cable (although if you use 8AWG wire per channel, it might be a trifle tricky to solder it to the driver...
) but YMMV as always. Another way is to place the binding posts on the rear panel at the same height as the driver, drill a small hole through the internal baffle to feed the wire through, and then seal it with plenty of sillicone sealent, caulking or similar.
For the damping, I'd either a) lightly stuff the point above the driver, place some felt behind it, and place a nice layer of stuffing about 1in deep on the base, or b) line the front of the internal baffle, and one side-wall, to just below the driver with stiff fiberglass if you can find it, and place the same on the base. Because they use the room a lot, it's pretty much a case of getting them in position, and then stuff / damp to taste.
for dampig I have this: the inside of pillow, wich is 100% acrilic material. And thin layer of acrylic.
So I go for option A: I lightly stuff above the driver to the closed end of the pipe. Then I place a thin layer behind the driver. Then I also have to put a layer on the bottom? for base do you mean bottom?
PS
I had delay because one blinding post broke into two pieces while I was triying it. Never seen before a thing like that. They were empty inside, that's why they're so weak.
So I go for option A: I lightly stuff above the driver to the closed end of the pipe. Then I place a thin layer behind the driver. Then I also have to put a layer on the bottom? for base do you mean bottom?
PS
I had delay because one blinding post broke into two pieces while I was triying it. Never seen before a thing like that. They were empty inside, that's why they're so weak.
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