Such Thing as a Cost Effective 10" Full Range

[69stingray]

I am rebuilding a pair of Coral 3-way speakers. It had a 10" driver running full-range, a midrange with a 1st-order electrical bandpass filter (have not determined freq's yet) and a horn tweeter.

Is there a 10" full range driver out there that is cost effective? Maybe has a natural roll-off that would blend with a 3-4" midrange level well? The cabinets are at approx. 30-35 Liters.

I assume the midrange in the Coral speaker was a "filler" between the 10" and the tweeter.

[Nanook]

try this :

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=78510186

matter of fact all the Dayton Drivers are a good value.

an Eminence Beta 10CX without the tweeter may proove to be good for you as well.

The only onther thing that may come close(st) to what you have may be the Seas replacement for the Dynaco A25 drivers: 25F-EW (H085), from Madisound as well.

pretty sure there must be a Coral expert out there...

However, in this case I believe the forum "fdullrange" is for fullrange drivers...''

[leadbelly]

Originally posted by Nanook
try this :

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=78510186

What? Why would anyone ever run that as a fullrange? Did you look at the response curve?

[Nanook]

I don't see how a true 10" full ranger exists as a new driver. I've looked. The Eminence alpha 10 is efficient and will work as high as 5k, and it's pretty reasonably priced..

I guess I was thinking a three way standard implementation.

[zayne742]

http://www.nirvanaspeakers.com/nirvana.html

I have not heard these myself, but some others have given them good reviews. Plus, a fullrange 10" and really the only 12" fullrange on the market. IMO they have to be worth a try!

[Poindexter]

Guys, I think that what sting was talking about is that his current 10" is running 'full range', or without any filter on it. This is actually a very good practice, one which I followed when I was making speakers with crossovers, but it does place a severe constraint on the bassmid that it be very well behaved around the top of its passband, so that it can be just left to roll off on its own.

This would disqualify the Dayton, since it has that gnarly screech at 2K, right in the brightness region. I would mention to sting also that though he may not know it, he's also looking for a woof that rolls off pretty much right where his original does, so that crossover components on the next driver up don't have to revalued.

I am myself a firm believer in the less crossover (passive, between the amp and loudspeaker driver) the better, but this practice involves some chores that must be done in getting everything balanced.

Aloha,

Poinz

Edit: spelling - I should proof more thoroughly.

[planet10]

Your best bet may well be a vintage driver... a Sansui/Atomix W-100 or similar. Usually can be had cheap.

A couple weeks ago i was sitting on at least 3 pair of drivers that would have been suitable, but alas a regular cleaned me out. I may have something buried if you'd like me to look.

It would be helpful to know where the mid takes over (the impedance and value of the cap on it, would be a good indicator.

A set of woofers out of Zenith Allegro 3000 might do the trick too. The best ones are 16 ohms thou (i know where 2 singles of those are)

dave

[SCD]

Hello Dave:
Those ten inch coral drivers I brought down for you a couple of years ago might well fit the need here.
Do you still have them?

[planet10]

Originally posted by SCD
Those ten inch coral drivers I brought down for you a couple of years ago might well fit the need here.
Do you still have them?

Yes, thanx for reminding me... a well matched set of 2 drivers could be had from the 4. It would even maintain the Coral-ness of the system.

dave

[69stingray]

Sorry, I should of been more clear on my intent. I would like to re-create the same design, but with new drivers and crossover components (same cabinets) - keeping a 10 running full-range. I have pulled one of the full-range 10" drivers and played a sine wave through them, there is extra noise coming from the motor. I think some of the noise is air passing through the vented dustcap. I can't hear it with music. They are my father-in-law's speakers and he was complaining about the bass becoming "muddy". I think the drivers are just old and dried up. They are from the early 70's I believe.

Is there a 10" version of?:

Pioneer B20FU20-51FW 8" Full Range Driver