Full range and/or High Efficiency possible in small cabinet? - Page 3

planet10 · 9th June 2007, 03:13 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Seraph
How long for the FE167 to break in?

Awhile...

dave

Seraph · 9th June 2007, 01:51 PM

OK

Seraph · 14th June 2007, 01:21 PM

Received the Fe 167's finding them slightly smaller than the existing holes in the front baffles. Am now contemplating removing the speaker binding post cup from the back enlarging the hole for a port and cutting a hole above it for the driver. Trouble is I dont have a router...Will look into buying one if I could justify the cost given the expected usage or may just look into the yellow pages for a wood worker.

Dave, a couple of questions;

1. What is an optimum tube port diameter and length for this 16 liter cab?

2. Do you or will have Fonken cabs for the 167 any time soon?

Regards
Seraph

planet10 · 14th June 2007, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Seraph
1. What is an optimum tube port diameter and length for this 16 liter cab?

2" ID 2 5/8" long

Quote:

2. Do you or will have Fonken cabs for the 167 any time soon?

I have a 1st draft,

dave

Nanook · 15th June 2007, 06:20 AM

or should be to most thinking men of the planet. I wish I had a smidge of his intellect and creativity...Oh well, the world needs idiots like me too
'

'. We can't all be described as the "best young physicist" by none other than J. Robert Oppenheimer.

Seraph, glad you made a decision, and what I think a pretty good one to boot.

regarding magic, it's easy. Just think it and you become it...

ped · 15th June 2007, 01:52 PM

Hi dave,

Do you have any more info available relative to the speakers you posted a photo of in post #9?

planet10 · 15th June 2007, 06:17 PM

Sealed FE167e crossed over to an active pair of push-push Extremis woofers. Red Light District on the top, Bryston 4B on the bottom. XO is at the -3dB point of the sats (106 Hz) annd is accompished with a smaller coupling cap on the RLD (for a net 3rd order) and the low pass on the woofers is using SY's as yet unpublished gyrator-based tube XO (i have REALLY good fealings about that one).

These were for a friend of SY's in CO. Centre is also a sealed FE167. Surrounds are FE127 ML-TLs built into the wall & ceiling (all driven with 2 more RLD)

dave

Seraph · 18th June 2007, 12:41 AM

Had a taste of fresh magic the other night after deciding to give the drivers a listen in the cabs existing holes... Figured I could have a listen meanwhile the drivers are breaking in and I am deciding what to do for an enclosure. So just installed the drivers and filled in and sealed off the gaps with blue tack. Closed and sealed off the tweeter holes as well using blue tack and two circles cut to size out of an old mouse pad! And in less than a couple of hours I had the drivers mounted and wired directly to the binding posts smiling all the while at the crudeness of the whole process. And soon the speakers sat on a couple of stands to be driven by 41Hz Amp 6 and a tube hybrid preamp the marriage of which is heavenly. Then there came the moment for the first few notes of “Brand New World” [Cowboy junkies—“at the end of path taken”] played through my modded work horse JVC Z1050…and I was immediately struck by the immediacy of sound stage depth and width, the truth of timbre, and clarity—the absence of haze imprinted on the precious signal by crossover components. Music has been nonstop since then as the latent magic continues in its gentle subtle flow and the drivers are breaking in. I will probably but patiently do rectangular boards secured and sealed on the front baffles with properly sized holes for the drivers. The hole for binding post cup in the back is really too low to be feasible for an enlargement…

Thanks Nanook (and Dave for feedback) for the encouragement to just proceed. What I did is an example of how making do with the resources at hand with little effort can produce outstanding results. The secret only lies in doing.

Those who are considering FR or any other purist scheme—make haste, music is upon us!

planet10 · 18th June 2007, 03:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Seraph
Had a taste of fresh magic the other night

Nanook · 19th June 2007, 01:13 AM

Quote:

Had a taste of fresh magic the other night

excellent. "Take a trip (to BC) and never leave the farm"--ain't that a song or something? ("and they call it the streak")

Really just cut a baffle for the drivers and glue and screw it to the front. And welcome to the dark side

. There is no going back...

15th June 2007, 06:20 AM	#25
Nanook diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Chinook Country.Alberta	Feynman a hero... or should be to most thinking men of the planet. I wish I had a smidge of his intellect and creativity...Oh well, the world needs idiots like me too ''. We can't all be described as the "best young physicist" by none other than J. Robert Oppenheimer. Seraph, glad you made a decision, and what I think a pretty good one to boot. regarding magic, it's easy. Just think it and you become it... __________________ stew ☮ -"A sane man in an insane world appears insane."

15th June 2007, 06:17 PM	#27
planet10 frugal-phile(tm) diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Victoria, BC, NA, Sol III Blog Entries: 4	Sealed FE167e crossed over to an active pair of push-push Extremis woofers. Red Light District on the top, Bryston 4B on the bottom. XO is at the -3dB point of the sats (106 Hz) annd is accompished with a smaller coupling cap on the RLD (for a net 3rd order) and the low pass on the woofers is using SY's as yet unpublished gyrator-based tube XO (i have REALLY good fealings about that one). These were for a friend of SY's in CO. Centre is also a sealed FE167. Surrounds are FE127 ML-TLs built into the wall & ceiling (all driven with 2 more RLD) dave __________________ community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA

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9th June 2007, 01:51 PM	#22
Seraph diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	OK

14th June 2007, 01:21 PM	#23
Seraph diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	Received the Fe 167's finding them slightly smaller than the existing holes in the front baffles. Am now contemplating removing the speaker binding post cup from the back enlarging the hole for a port and cutting a hole above it for the driver. Trouble is I dont have a router...Will look into buying one if I could justify the cost given the expected usage or may just look into the yellow pages for a wood worker. Dave, a couple of questions; 1. What is an optimum tube port diameter and length for this 16 liter cab? 2. Do you or will have Fonken cabs for the 167 any time soon? Regards Seraph

15th June 2007, 01:52 PM	#26
ped diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: PA	Hi dave, Do you have any more info available relative to the speakers you posted a photo of in post #9?

18th June 2007, 12:41 AM	#28
Seraph diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	Had a taste of fresh magic the other night after deciding to give the drivers a listen in the cabs existing holes... Figured I could have a listen meanwhile the drivers are breaking in and I am deciding what to do for an enclosure. So just installed the drivers and filled in and sealed off the gaps with blue tack. Closed and sealed off the tweeter holes as well using blue tack and two circles cut to size out of an old mouse pad! And in less than a couple of hours I had the drivers mounted and wired directly to the binding posts smiling all the while at the crudeness of the whole process. And soon the speakers sat on a couple of stands to be driven by 41Hz Amp 6 and a tube hybrid preamp the marriage of which is heavenly. Then there came the moment for the first few notes of “Brand New World” [Cowboy junkies—“at the end of path taken”] played through my modded work horse JVC Z1050…and I was immediately struck by the immediacy of sound stage depth and width, the truth of timbre, and clarity—the absence of haze imprinted on the precious signal by crossover components. Music has been nonstop since then as the latent magic continues in its gentle subtle flow and the drivers are breaking in. I will probably but patiently do rectangular boards secured and sealed on the front baffles with properly sized holes for the drivers. The hole for binding post cup in the back is really too low to be feasible for an enlargement… Thanks Nanook (and Dave for feedback) for the encouragement to just proceed. What I did is an example of how making do with the resources at hand with little effort can produce outstanding results. The secret only lies in doing. Those who are considering FR or any other purist scheme—make haste, music is upon us!

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