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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Raleigh/Atlanta
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Over the past school year I have built a couple of pairs of speakers which I think begin to show what I have learned about wood working. Over the past couple years of building loudspeakers I have decided that MDF and painting is not my cup of tea. My latest cabinets have been Baltic birch, heavily braced, and look much better than past projects. I'm ready to build something to show my skills. I have a pair of FE127s that were in a pair of Frugel-Horns and am ready to try something else, not corner loaded. I prefer the overpower presence of larger enclosures.
I would like some suggestions. My plan thus far: I do not see the plys of the side panels along with the top and bottom panels. Do accomplish this I was thinking of adding trim, the kind often used on bookshelves. This would hide the plys and they would be cut in a rather aesthetically pleasing way. I also would like to have a suprabaffle, made out of solid wood, preferably somewhat exotic. I would like to make these enclosures be 2-tone. The Baltic birch would be its natural color, likely only a poly on top. The trim covering the plys would be a cherry, and the suprabaffle (perhaps tiger wood) would be its natural color as well, the color similar to the birch. The problem is, how do I add a suprabaffle and trim... if I add trim, the driver must not only be mounted on the suprabaffle (which sits on the trim), but the suprabaffle would have to sit on a spacer as well. Should I shorted the width of the sides, top, and bottom panels to make room for the trim? What other ways can I do this? Thanks, Josh PS. I looked up pictures of tiger wood, I believe I was mistaken... the pictures did not look like what I wanted. So I would like wood suggestions as well. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Bremerton, WA.
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Depending on how much trim you want showing, you can edge the ply with trim across the full thickness or you can rabbet one edge down to as little as 1/16" inch and only have to trim that amount by chamfering the edge and gluing trim on.
Either method will work because speakers are not banged around constantly like doors or stairs, etc., but both methods are not without issues: With using full-thickness trim and then butting it to another piece, you have to have absolutely flat and square edges because the glue seams are exposed (and they are not very strong either!). Then, if you want to shape the corners by any amount, you can't use biscuits or dowels or nails to line everything up, which makes glue up more difficult. With rabbets, you have to cut the rabbet either with a saw or router bit, so it's more work. The wood needs to be flat or the rabbet won't be uniform, and the cuts have to be straight and square. And then glue up is also tricky because you are now dealing with two glue surfaces instead of one on each corner. Doug |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Well, as I'm clearly much lazier than Doug, I'd suggest pre-glued (iron-on) veneer edge tape for the exposed edges. It's pretty easy to work with, and available in a variety of species. (in fact, not from this supplier, but even in a "simulated Apple ply exposed ply" edge for use on MDF core veneered panels.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,250,43217 Of course if you want the finished edges flush with the adjoining panels, you'd need to allow for the thickness of the tape. The other down sides are that you'll still have a small seam and glue line showing that doesn't necessarily accept stains very well - but with a clear coat /natural finish is certainly less offensive. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Raleigh/Atlanta
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Taperwood,
Never thought of rabbeting... I could use 3/4" trim, rabbet the inner 3/4" of it after so that it will fit flush around edges, leaving the actual thickness of the trim on top of the cabinet be much less than 3/4". I like this idea. I was going let the enclosure sit on the trim, to angle it, but I can easily use spikes. I think I need to leave atleast 1/4" of trim after rabbeting to get a strong hold. Any more suggestions? Any wood suggestions? Thanks, Josh |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Raleigh/Atlanta
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Chris,
I want to have trim to add some style... and to have a 2-tone. I've seen much of your work and your inovative ideas, what else could I do? Thanks, Josh |
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
First of all thanks for the implied compliment. As I take it, your inquiries are now really entering the realm of aesthetics and personal taste - and it doesn't take much review of DIY postings to reveal how wide a range that encompasses. As a matter of self-preservation, I've attempted to evolve a sleek and understated style. There may sometimes be 3 or 4 pairs of speakers in rotation in the family areas of the house, and it's best to have something that doesn't cause my wife to twitch every time she passes by. She's lived with some rather obtrusive or simply ungainly systems in the past (QUAD ESL57, Acoustats, Dahlquist DQ10, Tangent RS8, I could go on) and would prefer if the speaker was heard but not seen. It's apparently one of the few things I try to see from her point of view these days, and she appreciates the conscious effort. Dave has a much more tolerant situation, and he tends to accumulate the unfinished boxes. If the speaker cabinets are large enough that they can't help but dominate a space that is not a dedicated listening "cave", then you could be pointing your direction in the wrong direction, but it might not hurt to try and blend with the style and details of any existing large furniture pieces - they'll look like they "belong". |
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#7 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
When Josh 1st asked this question the attached speakers of Chris' were the 1st things that popped into mind. ![]() dave
__________________
community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Quote:
__________________
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#9 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: victoria BC
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Quote:
Quote:
"you knew I was a snake when you took me in" My perversions (audio and otherwise) pre-existed meeting my wife of 35 years, in fact we met while I was providing music for a sister's "parents are away for the weekend party" (1971) . In 3 1/2 decades, she has never denied entrance to even the most obtrusive or ugly audio gear I could personally tolerate - there are far more powerful ways to make her opinions known. My tastes in music and the scale of required audio reproduction for the home have made more than a few turns since then, and while I've slept on the couch my fair share, I've never had to train a new spouse. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: BrisVegas
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Quote:
Are the drivers in those gorgeous speakers what I think they are - PHY-HP H21? I would like to find a design that does these drivers justice yet can be used close(ish) to the front wall. Care to share? Er, on second thoughts perhaps not - it could leave me penniless Regards Raymond |
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