W3-593s

gvr4ever · 17th May 2007, 08:48 PM

Is the search busted?

They are on sale right now, and I wanted to find a decent project for them.

Consul · 17th May 2007, 08:57 PM

I don't know off-hand if the TABAQ might work for that one-

TABAQ TL for Tang Band

But for that price, why not give it a shot? I think I will. My first speaker build! YAY!

EDIT: Well, I just took the plunge, and got the parts to make the TABAQs using these W3-593 drivers. I'll let you all know how I get on. Thanks for letting me know about this sale, gvr!

Consul · 17th May 2007, 09:29 PM

Heh, I should've thought a little more before I hit the submit button. I just realized I forgot binding posts and speaker caulk. It's not the end of the world, though.

gvr4ever · 18th May 2007, 07:45 AM

PE speaker caulk is not all that. I friend of mine redid his BR-1s using a sealed box and better crossover, and the caulk had hardened so much, that he destroyed his woofers trying to get them out. He had to buy new ones.

Just get something from the hardware store. See if Radio Shack has some binding post. I really don't know, I haven't checked in a long time. Sometimes I forget stuff too. I try to get things locally before I got back to PE cause shipping can be a PITA if you don't buy over $100 in stuff.

Consul · 18th May 2007, 03:46 PM

Yeah, I'm not worried about it. I'm sure I can find something in RS that'll do the job. For a simple project like this, I'll just use regular silicone caulk. That should do the job.

Today, I'll go by RS and see if I can find the other parts I need. I already have some good wire laying around here somewhere. I picked up the MDF last night. Unfortunately, I don't have a table saw, so I'll have to see if I can rig some sort of fence so I can make straight cuts with the circular saw.

I'll probably start posting in the TABAQ thread when things get off the ground.

Cal Weldon · 18th May 2007, 04:36 PM

Hi Darren,

If you are sealing the box, you might wish to consider another caulk. Silicone is good but needs a lot of prep to remain in place over the years. Try butyl (acoustic and vapour retarder sealant). It's really stringy stuff and tends to make a mess but will remain in place and pliable for the life of the cabinet.

For sealing the driver, I use silicone:
Place the cabinet on it's back
Oil the basket flange to prevent adhesion to the caulk
Lay your caulk bead in the driver recess.
Place the driver into the recess but do not fasten. Allow the weight of the driver to compress the caulk into a gasket. If the driver is light, add a piece of wood and a small weight to help compress.
Leave overnight.
Fasten drivers the next day.

The oiled flange allows you to remove the driver.

billnchristy · 19th May 2007, 03:19 AM

This is my project for them.

If you have not heard them yet they are impressive little buggers!!

I built these as PC speakers, but put them on podiums 9 feet apart and they handled the soundstage with no droopage in the middle...I like them a lot!

They give up quick at about 90dB though, but I am driving them with a T-amp which also gives up at about the same time.

These guys are mated to a 25w sub using the TB 1138 5.25" sub. Again, an impressive little guy.
The "real" box for the sub is not built yet and of course final finish work isnt started on the main cabs either.

Basically below the veneer panel will be a flush brown grille held on with magnets, the rest of the speaker will be satin black.

billnchristy · 19th May 2007, 03:23 AM

Maybe I should host some pics to make it quicker...

Heres some more of the build and what it will look like with a rigged up grille.

gychang · 19th May 2007, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by billnchristy
This is my project for them.

If you have not heard them yet they are impressive little buggers!!

These guys are mated to a 25w sub using the TB 1138 5.25" sub. Again, an impressive little guy.
The "real" box for the sub is not built yet and of course final finish work isnt started on the main cabs either.

would be interested in the sub dimensions etc, if the final sound is favorable, thanks,

gychang

billnchristy · 19th May 2007, 02:12 PM

Right now I have the sub in a like size enclosure I built for an omni speaker. It is only made of 1/4" MDF so it has resonance issues, but it mates with the 3" pretty well, here is a graph I made with rat shack meter @ approx 1m.

17th May 2007, 08:48 PM	#1
gvr4ever diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Indianapolis, IN	W3-593s Is the search busted? They are on sale right now, and I wanted to find a decent project for them.

18th May 2007, 04:36 PM	#6
Cal Weldon Speakerholic diyAudio Moderator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: British Columbia	Hi Darren, If you are sealing the box, you might wish to consider another caulk. Silicone is good but needs a lot of prep to remain in place over the years. Try butyl (acoustic and vapour retarder sealant). It's really stringy stuff and tends to make a mess but will remain in place and pliable for the life of the cabinet. For sealing the driver, I use silicone: Place the cabinet on it's back Oil the basket flange to prevent adhesion to the caulk Lay your caulk bead in the driver recess. Place the driver into the recess but do not fasten. Allow the weight of the driver to compress the caulk into a gasket. If the driver is light, add a piece of wood and a small weight to help compress. Leave overnight. Fasten drivers the next day. The oiled flange allows you to remove the driver. __________________ Next stop: Margaritaville Some of Cal's stuff \| Cal Weldon Consulting

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17th May 2007, 08:57 PM	#2
Consul diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Port Huron, Michigan, USA	I don't know off-hand if the TABAQ might work for that one- TABAQ TL for Tang Band But for that price, why not give it a shot? I think I will. My first speaker build! YAY! EDIT: Well, I just took the plunge, and got the parts to make the TABAQs using these W3-593 drivers. I'll let you all know how I get on. Thanks for letting me know about this sale, gvr!

17th May 2007, 09:29 PM	#3
Consul diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Port Huron, Michigan, USA	Heh, I should've thought a little more before I hit the submit button. I just realized I forgot binding posts and speaker caulk. It's not the end of the world, though.

18th May 2007, 07:45 AM	#4
gvr4ever diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Indianapolis, IN	PE speaker caulk is not all that. I friend of mine redid his BR-1s using a sealed box and better crossover, and the caulk had hardened so much, that he destroyed his woofers trying to get them out. He had to buy new ones. Just get something from the hardware store. See if Radio Shack has some binding post. I really don't know, I haven't checked in a long time. Sometimes I forget stuff too. I try to get things locally before I got back to PE cause shipping can be a PITA if you don't buy over $100 in stuff.

18th May 2007, 03:46 PM	#5
Consul diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Port Huron, Michigan, USA	Yeah, I'm not worried about it. I'm sure I can find something in RS that'll do the job. For a simple project like this, I'll just use regular silicone caulk. That should do the job. Today, I'll go by RS and see if I can find the other parts I need. I already have some good wire laying around here somewhere. I picked up the MDF last night. Unfortunately, I don't have a table saw, so I'll have to see if I can rig some sort of fence so I can make straight cuts with the circular saw. I'll probably start posting in the TABAQ thread when things get off the ground.

19th May 2007, 03:23 AM	#8
billnchristy diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2006	Maybe I should host some pics to make it quicker... Heres some more of the build and what it will look like with a rigged up grille.

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