Puffin said:GeoffH. Is coating the cones in PVA worthwhile ? I wonder what the dilution ratio is. Are there any other substances that would work i.e dope (not the smoky kind though !)
I haven't found a paper cone yet where it wasn't worthwhile... i haven't calibrated the amount of thinning, but it doesn't take much extra fluid (use ink or food coloring if you want to add colour) to thin it down. When i do a thin thinned coat on an FE126/127 it is starting to set up before i get all the way round if i dawdle at all.
dave
GeoffH. Is coating the cones in PVA worthwhile ? I wonder what the dilution ratio is. Are there any other substances that would work i.e dope (not the smoky kind though !)
I betcha hashish oil would work, though its almost as expensive as C37.
I got my phase problems sorted out. On the right speaker I had soldered the wires incorrectly, Doh. So reversing the left speaker wires did something, but 2 wrongs did not make a right !
Sounding very good. I decided to experiment with different styles of phase plug. If you have seen the Beauhorns, you will see that they use a mushroom shaped plug. I fashioned something similar out of an R80 spot bulb. Cut a small amount off the end of the bulb, gule a thin piece of wood on, screw three small screws into it and position. I'm very impressed. Smoother over all than Dave's plugs, but no less detail.
Sounding very good. I decided to experiment with different styles of phase plug. If you have seen the Beauhorns, you will see that they use a mushroom shaped plug. I fashioned something similar out of an R80 spot bulb. Cut a small amount off the end of the bulb, gule a thin piece of wood on, screw three small screws into it and position. I'm very impressed. Smoother over all than Dave's plugs, but no less detail.
Tweeker said:I betcha hashish oil would work, though its almost as expensive as C37.
Cones would sure smell nice... you'd need to add something to thin it and to let it "dry"
C37 isn't actually all that expensive when you factor in how much you actually need -- unfortunately minimum quantity is enuff for 30-50 people. I'm still experimenting with it. So far it doesn't seem to have as universal applicability as puzzlecoat (but it does work, and has edged out PK in one case)
dave
Thanks for the dilation tips Dave. Do you use acetone? water (pure rain water) takes forever to dry.
The last coat I applied was straight from the bottle in an attempt to get a random texture on the cone, in order to reduce standing waves on the cone.
I don't know if this mimics the enable process, but they more sensitive to background noise on recordings. Not sure if that's due to a peak yet.
Geoff.
The last coat I applied was straight from the bottle in an attempt to get a random texture on the cone, in order to reduce standing waves on the cone.
I don't know if this mimics the enable process, but they more sensitive to background noise on recordings. Not sure if that's due to a peak yet.
Geoff.
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Geoff H said:Do you use acetone? water (pure rain water) takes forever to dry.
I use water for puzzlecoat (PVA) (or water based colourant) -- for woofers i'll use it unthinned. For C37 i use turpentine, For hash oil i'd use isopropanol -- but using that to coat a speaker seems a waste but it certainly would be possible to make a hemp-based laquer that could be killer.
dave
Thanks Dave,
This might be of interest to some, make your own damar:
www.wetcanvas.com/Articles2/47992/606/index.php
No recipe for a hemp cocktail yet.
Geoff.
This might be of interest to some, make your own damar:
www.wetcanvas.com/Articles2/47992/606/index.php
No recipe for a hemp cocktail yet.
Geoff.
Geoff H said:This might be of interest to some, make your own damar:
It is a whole lot easier to go and buy a $12 bottle of pre-mix at the art supply -- enuff for a couple hundred speakers.
But it might be worth a lark to try the recipe from the sap of the Douglas Firs (a pine species) in the back yard.
dave
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