First timer here. Couple questions

[Arc]

First off I want to say thank you to Planet10 for hosting amazing plans online.

Now, I am getting my first workshop in a couple months and I am hoping to make a couple interesting cabinets over the next school year, and I have wondered into horns and full range and I don't see myself leaving.

I am interested in the designs that center around the FE126E as they are relatively inexpensive and many designs for them are around. I plan on making the Frugal, the Harvey, and the Mikasa.

I am skilled enough to do these cabinets so not too worried about that. The amps powering them is a different thing. I have a Denon receiver that is like 65watts @ 8 ohm, I think that is a bit much. I am also building a 3886 amp. But would a Sonic T-amp work as well?

Now to the questions..
1. I looked at all the plans but didn't notice any stuffing/dampening procedures? Tips?
2. These are full range, so are there any other things that need to be thought of? Like caps, filters and what not.
3. The Fonken for the FE127e...will it work with the 126?

Anything else that I should keep in mind? Sorry for the ridiculous amounts of questions..

Thank you for you help and again huge thanks to Planet10.

[edjosh23]

A sonic T would work great with the FE126 drivers. Those are all good cabinet choices.

1. For stuffing, you do what you like best, basically stuff the CC, but minimal ammount. You may not find a need to stuff the CC, but my understanding is that a little stuffing the in CC will in tern reduce HF from going through the mouth. The Spawn designs are basically bass reflex, I am calling it a CC, but likely not the best term.

The Denon amp will be plenty for these driver, remember that those output ratings are not accurate. The 3886 and T-Amp will sound better than the Denon, but if you are doing home theater, you need a processor of somesort to decode, I don't know which Denon you have, but with that rated output, the Denon probably does not have surround pre-outs.

2. No need for caps or filter, for these designs.

3. The FE126 does not work well in bass reflex designs like the Fonken, you are welcome to try, but likely not the best combo.
Planet10 would have the best answers.

Just have fun, and post pictures.

Josh

[Arc]

Thanks for the answers. I will try the fonken, but I might end up buying the 127's to go in them. I will try various stuffing/dampening to see what I like the best then seal 'em up. I am not too interested in HT, just stereo. So I will get a Tamp and finish up my 3886.

I am awaiting planet10's answers if he ventures this way.

Thanks again.

[BudP]

Arc,

Welcome to the play ground of the God's

Read this thread on your Fostex driver. You might get some further ideas for things to do.

Help me kill a fostex artifact.

Bud

[Scottmoose]

Well, I'm not Dave, but I did design some of the cabinets you mention with him, so here's a few of my views to be going on with until Dave can make his own suggestions.

The frugalhorn could need some light damping on the rear of the chamber to supress reflections back through the cone, but go easy or you'll kill dynamics. Dave will be able to tell you more.

The same applies to Mikasa to an extent. However, Mikasa runs the horns deliberately high for the same reasons that I often go for more gain than some other people do, based on GMs advice to me some time ago: it's easier to damp down what you ahve too much of than boost what you don't have in the first place. It also gives the builder more room for tweaking. So that will need more strategically placed damping -some aperiodic foam in the throats for example, & adjust to taste.

Harvey works like a reflex box in operation. Some light damping on the base and one side-wall of the back-chamber is fine. That's what I used for my prototypes anyway. Other than that, she's ready to go. They'll all sound very different, with their own benefits and drawbacks, so should be interesting if you can build a coupel of sets & compare to each other. No filters required for any of these three cabinets BTW.

[Arc]

Thank you for your insight. I am looking foward to experimenting with these. I just looked through the Mikasa plans and have one quick question. The piece that is the deflecter in the back that separates to the two separate channels, what are the dimensions on that? It looks to be about 2"x.75" with 45* angles?

Thanks again.

[Scottmoose]

That's something we're adjusting actually. But you're about right. The two throats are where some aperiodic foam will be required to damp the HF down a bit.