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#1851 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Singapore
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I just got my carpenter to put 3 sets of 1" cross-section wood beams per cabinet to secure front to back and ... side to side. Recently, a friend of mine got the carpenter to mount a rectangular piece 3/4" thick plywood with a recangular hole cut out.. instead of just using a single 1" wod beam... I think this approach is even better.
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#1852 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Quote:
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#1853 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Hi everyone,
Here are the dimensions for my onken speaker cabinet. All dimensions are in inches and are based on using 13 ply baltic birch plywood with nominal thickness of 11/16". For one speaker you will need. (2) top and bottom: 16x12 (2) sides: 34x15-5/16 (1) back: 34x12 (1) front: 34x7-13/16 (definitely the most important cut. if any of the cuts are off it maybe necessary to slightly adjust the width of this board to ensure that everything fits together tightly) (2) internal wings: 34x11-3/4 (10) internal fins: 2x11-3/4 (equidistantly spaced every 4"). --Beastrex |
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#1854 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
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Does anyone know the female connector (brand and model) that should be used to connect the power supply to the threaded male connector that is mounted on the periphery of the field coil drivers? Thanks, Beastrex
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#1855 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Singapore
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Quote:
Hi, Think it's probably a Japan Standard type connectors.. Check with your Feastrex dealer.... I ordered a spare wire harness/connector set last year as I wanted to try my D9e in another cabinet... |
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#1856 |
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diyAudio Member
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Mr Teramoto has send me the updated cabinet plans on his recommended BR box for the 5" drivers. It's very simple with no internal bracing. Slightly different dimensions to the br plans currently on the feastrex website.
I did have a listen to the d5nf and the d5e type III in revised br cabinet and indeed it was nice. He did show me these little wooden pyramid pieces that was used to stand the boxes on and showed me the difference they had to the sound. The mid/bass was cleaner and tighter. We also tried these little quartz crystals under the cabinets and bass was bit stronger but less tight. He gave me a bag of the crystals to take back home to play with. Said it works good on other components too (cdp, amp, etc). I took some photos of my visit, I will upload them soon
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#1857 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Singapore
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Quote:
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#1858 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Italy
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Hi,
has anyone tried the DN5 in a 2 way configuration similar to the following? azurahorn / 160 mk1 at VSAC.jpg the horn has a 160htz acoustical cut off and I would like to xover elecrically to the bass section around 200/250 hertz. Any advice, experience, or doubt to share? Thanks Roberto |
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#1859 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Singapore
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Quote:
I'm very familiar with the Azura Front Horn... A good friend of mine has a pair.. and we have tried lots of fullrangers on the Azura... I've not had a chance to try the Feastrex on the Azura.. but so far the best results we got with the Azura ... was with Lowther and the Exact driver... The Front horn rolls off the highs a bit, so a fullranger with a slight rising highs like the Lowther and Exact will do very well.. For fullrangers without that rising highs... front horn loading it will cause the highs to roll off even earlier... so might need to put a super tweeter to bring back the sparkle in the highs. For the D5nf if you want to try this multi-driver approach... The simple OB set-up would be a much better, superior and cheaper approach. Cheers, William |
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#1860 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Italy
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Hi William,
thanks for your advice. The reason why I was considering the front horn option is that I will finally move in a bigger place where I should "fill" a room of 80 squared meter with high ceiling (4+ meters) and I fear that the OB option to be a bit "light" especially with low power SE tube amplis ( I have a 300B and a 45 Yamamoto). Do you think that an OB would do in such a room? If so..what sizes would you suggest for the baffle and for the bass driver(s)? Cheers Roberto |
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