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Old 18th October 2007, 09:35 AM   #131
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Old 18th October 2007, 11:17 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bill F.


I had a similar reaction when I first saw it--see my take starting in post 8.

None of this is to say they don't sound good. It's just a little mystifying...
Wouldn't the BruteFIR and associated room correction software be able to compensate for non-linearities in the speaker motor?

Btw, I once had a pair of Scott bike gloves made of synthetic leather and they appeared to have every feature of organic leather x 10 (they were lost in the mail unfortunately).
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Old 18th October 2007, 02:49 PM   #133
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Center of driver is 6.5" below top, as shown on drawing. I was surprised that the drawing actually worked, without changes. Everything was glued and clamped with square except the top rear access panel which is held on with 6 screws, 3 on each side at corners and center of long side. Vent is 6.5 long x 1 wide x .75 deep.

I understand these drivers take at least 200 hours to break in. I look forward to your impressions Phil.

I tried lifting them off the floor by about 9 inches. Height was better but bass and mids lost a lot. Placed on carpetted floor is much better. YMMV
Rich
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Old 18th October 2007, 03:20 PM   #134
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Default The Wild Feastex.

I'm off to buy some clear pine or vg spruce today....


My blades are sharp and my clamps are clean

I'm feeling

The call of the Wild Feastrex


Phil

New Mexico...
just like old Mexico...
Only cleaner
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Old 18th October 2007, 06:55 PM   #135
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Excuse my humble lobbyism for a Peta grade Feastrex driver
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Old 18th October 2007, 07:56 PM   #136
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You go Phil! Get you some 60 grit paper while you're there and carve out a masterpiece! Have fun. A router with a circle cutting jig is helpful too, I made one from a piece of luan, but it was very cloogey. I learned how hard it is to cut circles smaller than the router's base diameter. The inset should be 3/8" deep, Chris' illustration is not accurate on that dimension.

232, the driver cone surround is made of leather! From a real dead cow, no less! There are 4 pieces of thin glove leather glued together at 90 degree intervals. I asked Mr Teramoto about the possibilty of the leather hardening over time, he said just keep playing it and it won't harden. No leather treatment required. We'll see in 30 years. mooooo
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Old 18th October 2007, 08:10 PM   #137
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Default Thanks Rich

I bought this Jasper circle cutter and I must say I have not screwed up one hole since it's showed up. (I just reread that line...it does sound a bit odd)

I just might have a problem with The Wild Feastrex since I'm one of those damn vegetarians...yikes!!! LEATHER...dead cows...oh no!

But wait...I've got leather shoes...

saved again.

Off to do battle the the clear, void free, harvested on the full moon, pine.

Come on Joe send out the Wild Feastrexes, well boxed please.
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Old 18th October 2007, 09:04 PM   #138
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I doubt the assertion that it won't need treatment. Leather will eventually dry out. I'd treat it once a year at least.
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Old 18th October 2007, 09:10 PM   #139
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Default Leather surounds

Scott, what would you use to treat it?
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Old 18th October 2007, 10:10 PM   #140
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Just about any commercial leather cream should do, applied carefully with a lint free cloth. Alternatively, traditional Nivea cleansing cream (the cheapest, in the dark blue tub / tin) works pretty much as well as anything I know of on leather (good for coats, shoes, furniture etc too). Remarkably useful stuff, Nivea -I always make sure I've got a tub in the house.
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