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		<title>diyAudio</title>
		<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/</link>
		<description>A community dedicated to helping everyone learn the art of audio.  Projects by fanatics, for fanatics!</description>
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		<lastBuildDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 17:57:06 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>diyAudio</title>
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		<item>
			<title>Rebuild</title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/236467-rebuild.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 16:56:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>How often do you need to rebuild your speakers?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>How often do you need to rebuild your speakers?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/">Multi-Way</category>
			<dc:creator>Dan Kelly</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/236467-rebuild.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Replacing smoothing caps on Arcam AVR200 advice</title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/236466-replacing-smoothing-caps-arcam-avr200-advice.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 16:44:41 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, I have an Arcam AVR200 I bought it ages ago as spares and repairs off eBay for £45. I have listened to a friend’s 200 and thought it was amazing....</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi, I have an Arcam AVR200 I bought it ages ago as spares and repairs off eBay for £45. I have listened to a friend’s 200 and thought it was amazing. Anyway as it said in the EBay description, all channels have a buzzing sound, like a bad earth. It does have a buzzing, which in honesty is only mildly annoying when no sound is being put through it, in other words during breaks. I have done the standard things .. tried it with just one speaker connected , even took it to my friends to see if its maybe the power in my house although I have other audio equipment that this does not effect. After reading the forums threads with similar problems it seems to be a good start to replace the smoothing caps. So my first attempt at a fix is to replace the smoothing caps on the main amp board, they are 63v 10000uf RL 35X which from a quick search say they are Rubycon’s . The advice I’m after is what do I replace them with? I’m hopefully trying to achieve an improvement, though what the improvement will be I don’t know I’m not that technical unfortunatly. I have budget of about £25 for both. I live near CPC in Preston so I have first looked at their stock; there are Panasonics and Vishay’s from £9 to £12. One of the things I worry about is buying “better” caps at low price of eBay and finding out they are fakes or are low quality, one of the reason I buy from places like CPC RS etc.<br />
<br />
<br />
The part number according to the Arcam Service manual is 8910-0078-0 CE 63v 10000uf 20%<br />
<br />
   <br />
  One other thing if anyone has time to answer is that I have notice that some are 0.33ohm and 0.35ohm does this make a difference ? Should I aim for higher, lower or an exact replacement?<br />
<br />
<br />
Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/">Parts</category>
			<dc:creator>Fivetide</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/parts/236466-replacing-smoothing-caps-arcam-avr200-advice.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Noob wanting to build chip amp, help appreciated</title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/236465-noob-wanting-build-chip-amp-help-appreciated.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 16:38:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys, I'm looking for an easy to follow chip amp design that i can wire point to point and hopefully acquire everything off the shelf at the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys, I'm looking for an easy to follow chip amp design that i can wire point to point and hopefully acquire everything off the shelf at the usual electronics stores (fry's/ratschack/allelectronics,etc...) <br />
I am very interested in the audiosector gainclones, but i was wondering if theres something even easier i can achieve. I have some free time today and i wanted to go component shopping, and hopefully build the amp by tonight.<br />
Although i am totally ignorant when it comes to electronics, I am not bad at assembling and soldering things. I can follow instructions very well, so no amp would be too difficult as far as the documentation is there.<br />
Most of all, i need a BOM i can drive around and try to fill out, any help?<br />
<br />
<br />
PS. I'm not worried about the power supply right now, but what kind of home device should i be ripping apart for a worthwhile transformer for the psu? i have a few....</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/">Chip Amps</category>
			<dc:creator>nubskillz</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/236465-noob-wanting-build-chip-amp-help-appreciated.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[miniDSP DAC & I2S]]></title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/236464-minidsp-dac-i2s.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 16:38:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello, new user here :) 
 
I've been looking into building a pre-amp around the miniDSP 2x8 and basically I'm not sure about the quality of the...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello, new user here :)<br />
<br />
I've been looking into building a pre-amp around the miniDSP 2x8 and basically I'm not sure about the quality of the internal DAC. In my current setup I use a DacMagic to feed my pre-amp. I've been googling over and over again and can't seem to find an answer, so now I figured I'd try and ask here :D<br />
<br />
Does anyone know how the internal DAC of the miniDSP 2x8 compares to a Cambridge DacMagic? If the internal DAC is inferior to the DacMagic, how big of a hassle would it be to extract the I2S of the miniDSP and feed it to the DacMagic?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/">Digital Line Level</category>
			<dc:creator>JamesBarr</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/236464-minidsp-dac-i2s.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Sanyo STK amp modules - can they be tested for life?</title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/236463-sanyo-stk-amp-modules-can-they-tested-life.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 16:24:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have (4) Sanyo STK086 amplifier modules that are part of an M&K Volkswoofer setup and I was wanting to test the modules out for signs of life. I...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have (4) Sanyo STK086 amplifier modules that are part of an M&amp;K Volkswoofer setup and I was wanting to test the modules out for signs of life. I only have a digital multi meter...will this work? What pins do I test and how? <br />
<br />
I'd need some instruction as to which pins I put the leads to and what readings I'm looking for. I have the datasheet already.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.datasheetarchive.com/STK086-datasheet.html" target="_blank">STK086 datasheet and application note, data sheet, circuit, pdf, cross reference | Datasheet Archive</a><br />
<br />
Looks like this, but it's not a &quot;G&quot; model...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://i.ebayimg.com/t/STK086-G-BY-SANYO-/06/!BR8ERZ!CGk~$(KGrHgoOKjYEjlLmYLs0BK!k3q06Lg~~_12.JPG" class="highslide" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://i.ebayimg.com/t/STK086-G-BY-SANYO-/06/!BR8ERZ!CGk~$(KGrHgoOKjYEjlLmYLs0BK!k3q06Lg~~_12.JPG" border="0" alt="Click the image to open in full size." class="tcattdimgresizer"  /></a><br />
<br />
Thanks for the help, <br />
  Cory</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/">Chip Amps</category>
			<dc:creator>Sonance84</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/236463-sanyo-stk-amp-modules-can-they-tested-life.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Selenium D220Ti drivers</title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/236462-selenium-d220ti-drivers.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 16:14:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>These were tested then put away in the closet. No issues. 
 
8 ohms, threaded. 
 
Prices include PayPal and shipping within USA (only). 
 
1 - $40 
2...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>These were tested then put away in the closet. No issues.<br />
<br />
8 ohms, threaded.<br />
<br />
Prices include PayPal and shipping within USA (only).<br />
<br />
1 - $40<br />
2 - $75<br />
3 - $100</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/">Swap Meet</category>
			<dc:creator>boudy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/236462-selenium-d220ti-drivers.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Difficult Component/Amplifier Wiring Puzzle</title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/236461-difficult-component-amplifier-wiring-puzzle.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 15:47:25 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hello, I am about to do a very large build and needed some help with wiring components to my 4 channel amp. I will need expert advice. 
  
My...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hello, I am about to do a very large build and needed some help with wiring components to my 4 channel amp. I will need expert advice.<br />
 <br />
My available equipment includes:<br />
 <br />
<b>Deck</b>: Pioneer DEH 80PRS<br />
        3 sets of RCA outs, Left/Right Channel equalization, can be ran active or passive.<br />
<b>4 Channel Amp: </b>(nameless)<br />
        1 ohm stable stereo mode, assume enough power for any wiring config<br />
<b>Speakers:</b> <br />
   Tweets: 5 sets (10 tweets) with optional 4 ohm passive crossovers<br />
   6.5s: 3 sets (6 speakers)<br />
   8s:2 sets (4 speakers)<br />
<b>Car: </b>Pontiac Grand Am-Sedan<br />
       4 doors with small door panels. Rear deck tray will be sealed off from cabin, so speakers will not be able to run free air (correct me if I'm wrong)<br />
 <br />
I have thought for many hours about how to wire all speakers on the 4 channel while still keeping my Left/Right and Front/Rear channel separation. I would like to run my head unit in active mode for the best equalization possible. However, I believe my only option is to run the passive crossovers. I want to have the best sound stage possible. I can and will fabricate any fiberglass panels necessary.<br />
 <br />
My plan is to put 3 6.5s and 1 tweet in each front door and 2 tweets in each A-Pillars. I will run a passive crossover between the tweets and 6.5s. The 3 sets will be wired together on the front channels of the amp (each channel will run 3 6.5s and 3 tweets with the passive crossover). For the rear, I want to have either 2 8s in each rear door or run all four on the rear deck. I do not want any tweets in the rear. <br />
 <br />
Please let me know if you have any other wiring suggestions for the optimal setup. Thanks for your help</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/">Multi-Way</category>
			<dc:creator>Kalen</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/236461-difficult-component-amplifier-wiring-puzzle.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>alpine amp issues</title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/236458-alpine-amp-issues.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 15:31:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Ok like an idiot I managed to short out an output transistor which took out the channel 
 
I replaced the irf9540 and irf 540 transistors, 2 of each....</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Ok like an idiot I managed to short out an output transistor which took out the channel<br />
<br />
I replaced the irf9540 and irf 540 transistors, 2 of each.<br />
<br />
I powered it up and it appeared to work until my in line fuse blew.<br />
<br />
The sound became distorted and the transistors were hot.<br />
<br />
I have replaced them again, powered up and the fuse blew again. This time I used a 10 amp fuse to minimise damage.<br />
<br />
The amp is a mrv1005<br />
<br />
 Help appreciated thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/">Car Audio</category>
			<dc:creator>dhamia</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/236458-alpine-amp-issues.html</guid>
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			<title>Counterpoint III?</title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/236457-counterpoint-iii.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 14:45:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi Russ, 
  
Has the Counterpoint III project been scrapped (for release as a TPA product) or is there any progress to report on it?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi Russ,<br />
 <br />
Has the Counterpoint III project been scrapped (for release as a TPA product) or is there any progress to report on it?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/">Twisted Pear</category>
			<dc:creator>barrows</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/twisted-pear/236457-counterpoint-iii.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Another heat sink size question</title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/236456-another-heat-sink-size-question.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 14:24:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Sorry for yet another heat sink question. 
 
Initially I bought the larger heat sink for a LM4780 and the smaller one for LM3886TF. 
 
Image:...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Sorry for yet another heat sink question.<br />
<br />
Initially I bought the larger heat sink for a LM4780 and the smaller one for LM3886TF.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y85/Navyblue/Temp/3FB3B8FF-76FD-4C19-840B-07292586AE0C-1206-000005A87ECD1C87_zps1632c1c4.jpg" class="highslide" onclick="return hs.expand(this)"><img src="http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y85/Navyblue/Temp/3FB3B8FF-76FD-4C19-840B-07292586AE0C-1206-000005A87ECD1C87_zps1632c1c4.jpg" border="0" alt="Click the image to open in full size." class="tcattdimgresizer"  /></a><br />
<br />
As size comparison LM3886 and its board are included in the picture. The exact heat sink dimensions are:<br />
<br />
Larger: 300x100x26mm<br />
Smaller: 150x92x40mm<br />
<br />
However, I  wonder if I can get by with both chips on the larger heat sink? The heat sink is going to be mounted externally on top of the chassis.<br />
<br />
Transformer voltage: 2x18V<br />
Load for LM3886: 1x4&#937; speaker<br />
Load for LM4780: 2x4&#937; speaker (in stereo mode)<br />
Ambient temperature: Lets assume ~28-30&#730;C<br />
<br />
Thanks.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/">Chip Amps</category>
			<dc:creator>Navyblue</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/236456-another-heat-sink-size-question.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Topping TP60 Fuse Problem</title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/236455-topping-tp60-fuse-problem.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 14:14:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I bought a Topping TP60 (Tripath 2022) a couple of months ago and so far, I am pretty happy with this amp. Since I've had it, the 2.5 amp fast-blow...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I bought a Topping TP60 (Tripath 2022) a couple of months ago and so far, I am pretty happy with this amp. Since I've had it, the 2.5 amp fast-blow fuse at the IEC power connection has blown 3 times. Each time, the fuse failed at turn-on. When I replace the fuse, everything works fine (for a while). At this point, I'm considering trying either a 3A fast-blow, or 2.5A slow-blow, or sending the amp back for exchange. I have many assorted amps and none uses a fuse at the power cord, so I don't really understand the purpose of this fuse in an amp that already has several internal protection features. Any suggestions and/or insights are appreciated.<br />
 <br />
Thanks in advance, Dan</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/">Class D</category>
			<dc:creator>oldskooliscool</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Simple shematics for line level distorsion</title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/instruments-amps/236453-simple-shematics-line-level-distorsion.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 13:58:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi.  
 
I would like to build for myself an FX box with 5+ distortion types, but for line level signals not for guitar. I will also put a wet/dry...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi. <br />
<br />
I would like to build for myself an FX box with 5+ distortion types, but for line level signals not for guitar. I will also put a wet/dry signal control.  <br />
<br />
I also want to add an EQ with simple low - high shelf, a dry/wet and have a transformer output for extra distortion/character and to have galvanic separation.<br />
<br />
<b>So I could really use some simple distortion circuits for line level signal</b>, I have a bunch of NE5532, lots of PNP NPN silicon transistors,some J201, 2N700, caps resistors and so on, I would prefer to use what I already have, I am not aiming to emulate something specific, sound quality is not an issue, just want to have some creative distortion FX.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/instruments-amps/">Instruments and Amps</category>
			<dc:creator>kategra84</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/instruments-amps/236453-simple-shematics-line-level-distorsion.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>a jordan JXRHD speaker : need your advices</title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/236452-jordan-jxrhd-speaker-need-your-advices.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 13:54:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hi,  
I try to know the kind of sound I can get with those bright JordanJXR6HD speakers: I want to use them as main speakers outside of my sailing...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hi, <br />
I try to know the kind of sound I can get with those bright JordanJXR6HD speakers: I want to use them as main speakers outside of my sailing boat.<br />
I desing the box in a WC exaust hose ( have to resist storm force  wheather= see attached). It is a regular bass reflex 2.8l box /  3.6cm diam and 17.7cm long vent.<br />
It seems to go a low as 85-90hz as shown by WinISD curve, but I found first the sound a bit &quot;shrap&quot; and in fact it appears on the typical response curve that it needs a slight attenuation (4-5 db) after about 300 hz. So I add:<br />
  an attenuation circuit <br />
  a 6db/oct- 10000 hz lowpass filter <br />
 an impedance correction circuit<br />
All that could seem to be a lot for such small speaker but the fact is that I enjoy the result.Very precise , bright and not aggressive.<br />
<br />
But I need your advises or experience about such filter for this fullrange<br />
See fdoc attached an excuse my bad english</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/">Full Range</category>
			<dc:creator>motutunga</dc:creator>
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			<title>high resolution portable projector</title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/diy-projectors/236451-high-resolution-portable-projector.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 13:53:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, I am new to this forum. I have made lots of research about DIY projectors a couple of years ago but didn't really had time to do it then.  
...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi, I am new to this forum. I have made lots of research about DIY projectors a couple of years ago but didn't really had time to do it then. <br />
<br />
Today I found a space ipod touch lcd, done some research on google and ended up on this forum. I was not able to find any particular information about ipod or iphone screens but they are high resolution and damn cheap (~$15 on ebay). <br />
<br />
I want to build a portable small projector and I would like to learn if it is actually possible to use these lcd modules(i know that ipod screens are really easy to separate from the backlight and make transparent)? is there a way to drive these lcd modules? maybe an ldvs controller?<br />
<br />
 As i said I have been away from the DIY projector community for a long time and do not have much up to date info. <br />
<br />
Thanks in advance</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/diy-projectors/">DIY Projectors</category>
			<dc:creator>steafler</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/diy-projectors/236451-high-resolution-portable-projector.html</guid>
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			<title>F5 PCB + PSU + Parts</title>
			<link>http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/236450-f5-pcb-psu-parts.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 23 May 2013 13:48:49 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi All 
 
I've got CViller F5 Boards (V1.0) mostly populated and PSU (V1.0) unpopulated with key parts. 
All the resistors on F5 boards have been...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi All<br />
<br />
I've got CViller F5 Boards (V1.0) mostly populated and PSU (V1.0) unpopulated with key parts.<br />
All the resistors on F5 boards have been matched and selected.<br />
You'll have 2 matched MOSFets sets, one from EUVL and HCFR.<br />
Matched JFets 2SK170/2SJ74-BL were sourced from Spencer.<br />
<br />
Informations about CViller boards : <br />
<a href="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/134554-gb-f5-pcb.html" target="_blank">http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group...gb-f5-pcb.html</a><br />
<br />
As shown in pics you'll have the following parts :<br />
<br />
1° - 2 x F5 CViller V1.0 boards populated with <br />
Vishay Dale RN60D resistors - 0.47R Panasonic 3W/5% - 50R Dale RS10 10W/1%<br />
Zetex 450/550 - Vishay Metal Film Resistors for R21/22 0.5W/1%<br />
Unsoldered MOSFets, JFets, Thermistors and power Led are delivered.<br />
You just have to find RLed ;)<br />
2° - 2 x EUVL 19N20(3.76)+12P20(5.89) Matched MOSFet sets<br />
3° - 2 x HCFR IRFP240(4.10)+9240(4.06) Matched MOSFet Sets <br />
4° - 2 x SPENCER 2SJ74BL+2SK170BL Matched JFet<br />
5° - 4 x Keratherm Kerafold thermal pads for MOSFets<br />
6° - 4 x Epcos NTC Thermistors 4K7 3986K<br />
7° - 1 x Bridge Recitifer KBPC3506 35A/600V<br />
8° - (5+4) x 0.47R/3&amp;4W Resistors for PSU<br />
9° - 2 x 2.2K/3W Resistor for PSU<br />
10°- 1 x On/Off 250V/16A switch + 1 fuse Holder (2.5mm stdt fuses) + 2 x Gold Plated RCA<br />
11°- 1 x CViller PSU PCB V1.0 (unpopulated) + 2 x cristal Blue Led (not shown)<br />
<br />
I could also supply caps for the PSU and heatsinks.<br />
PM me for details and informations<br />
Regards<br />
<br />
Phil</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/">Swap Meet</category>
			<dc:creator>korben69</dc:creator>
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