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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi !
I appologize for posting this simple thing, but I've searched and I couldn't find it. I'm completely new at eagle I'm making a board, but I can't find how to print the back of the PCB, mirrorwed to transfer to the real board. I need only the tracks and the holes of the components appearing in the impression, to transfer. I know it sounds fool to expert users, but I'll be glad to have this answer Thank you ! Best Regards |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: midlands
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Hi nando
If you do a file/print option, a small box appears with options such as mirror , rotate etc. (I have version 4.16) Please note I havn't tried this as I usually import the image (i use the File/Export/Image option) and then use Paint Shop Pro to tweak & mirror the image before printing. FYI, there are some useful support news groups for eagle: for general chat/info see news://eagle.userchat.eng and for support issues news://eagle.support.eng plus others HTHmirror |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Make visible the layers you need, for you, probably bottom copper, pads and via. Go to File/Export, set DPI resolution to match your printer, click the B&W box, and save as a bitmap. Then you can just open the file in any old graphics software and flip L-R. There are other ways, but that is often the simplest.
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Berlin
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Hey,
You would of course use the CAM module (the film tool next to the save-to-disk button) from the board layout window! Load a default camera job named 'layout', select the details and properties of your layout view, choose an output device format (PS, EPS, Gerber, Excellon and Plotter are the most relevant choices) and let the job get processed. Additional choices are mirror, flip, turn, invert, fill or unfill pads/holes, etc... A PS or Gerber (or whatever you choose) file is generated for every film layer you specify, You can then use this to view, print, CNC or whatever. Please note that only this is a resolution-independent, device-independent way of outputting a layout (or schematic, etc.) and is definitely appropriate for viewing and printing either on paper, film or transfer material. Hope this helps, Sebastian. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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I did say the simplest way.
Personally, I export to EPS, then lay up several PCBs in Photoshop to fit on one page. But that involves expensive software.
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Berlin
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Exporting as an image is the quickest way of getting a file for review or print, I agree. But creating and using them can be tricky if you're unsure how it works - and thus involve more time if you do the trial-and-error approach by subsequently printing each dpi and size adjustment value.
I rather use the CAM processot and do it exactly the same way as mentioned, but use The Gimp or Graphic Converter, should I run into a lack of Photoshop. The PS or EPS files can be post-processed with any modern image editor (e.g. all of the above). On Linux and MacOS, no additional software has to be installed to use postscript ([E]PS files), on Windows just download the free Ghostscript and GSView or use the professional Acrobat. BTW, it's not really that simple to export as a PNG or JPG, because hitting the exact printer's dpi can become difficult, and really fixing for the high dpi numbers of todays laser or ink jet printers can easily lead to ridiculously large file sizes that are more difficult to handle than the CAM processor anyway. The actual result would also depend on the picture viewer's and the printer driver's processing. IMHO, the CAM processor is a lot more flexible and gives consistent results, you just have to get used to the window handling and the file (extension) naming scheme. The tutorial explains it all. Nothing is more frustrating than having a board etched and drilled just to find out that it scaled a couple percent off or that the prints on the two board sides are misaligned due to different processing... Have fun, Sebastian. PS: Pinkmouse, I just describe it the 'official' way as I see myself confronted with a lot of Eagle related posts on diyaudio.com lately. Most of them result from new users intuitively using Eagle like a drawing program, which it just isn't. No offense... |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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No offense taken!
I'm not so familiar with the Wintel side of things as I use Mac mostly, and have always had a version of Photoshop installed so it was the default route for me really. I have never had serious scaling issues when I do print directly though, perhaps I've just been lucky?
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Californie
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pinkmouse: ... me Mac too ... me want CAD, layout, curcuit builder. Got links?
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Over compression is a problem with modern CD recordings |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Eagle is horribly ugly and not Mac at all, but it's the best bet for schematic capture and layout at the moment.
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Californie
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Yes ... I'm really looking for alternates to the usual Apple methodology: AppleWorks Drawing Pg., Photoshop (is fine, but complex), etc. ...
![]() I'll be asking my wife about a visit to the UK, possibly around the time frame of your DIY meet in Chesterfield ...
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Over compression is a problem with modern CD recordings |
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