I have been using 'No More Nails' glue for my speaker boxes. I believe this is called 'construction glue' and is different from proper wood glue. It supposedly bonds all kinds of materials and has fairly high grab, and (wet) excess wipes away with a damp cloth. I have found it sets quite hard (so good for small gap filling).
Should I really be using proper wood glue? If so why?
Should I really be using proper wood glue? If so why?
Thanks guys. I was wondering if it wasn't a good idea. I used wood glue in the past for all my boxes, but always have No More Nails in the cupboard due to house DIY, and I'm trying to be a minimalist 
The No More Nails seems a bit better on any gaps as it dries hard unlike wood glue which is very slightly rubbery and so a pain when it comes to finishing.
The No More Nails seems a bit better on any gaps as it dries hard unlike wood glue which is very slightly rubbery and so a pain when it comes to finishing.
An update after speaking with a professional cabinet maker. He says I should use proper PVA wood glue as No More Nails doesn't squeeze out of the gaps very well on tight joints? Since doing some research on mainly US based woodworking supplies websites, all the new-fangled wood glues seem to be polyurethene based, which No More Nails is. So is NMN really the best stuff?
Do you really want the glue to expand? Surely that upsets the joints? If there is a little surplus glue in there then that would just fill the gaps itself?
Do you really want the glue to expand? Surely that upsets the joints? If there is a little surplus glue in there then that would just fill the gaps itself?
An alternative is the various two pot epoxies such as used in boat building. I use the West system. Very strong, and better for thin materials as you can then strengthen the connection with fibreglass tape on internal corners. Can be made gap-filling with additives.Need to ensure mix ratios correct and temperature warm enough. A bit messy, but sands nicely.
Note PVA does tend to loose strength after about twenty years, particularly in damp environments, however I have never had any problems with speaker boxes due to this, only on things like drawers, which are subject to continual movement.
Note PVA does tend to loose strength after about twenty years, particularly in damp environments, however I have never had any problems with speaker boxes due to this, only on things like drawers, which are subject to continual movement.
Actually PVA shrinks... why you must use clamps. Epoxy is best but expensive and sands like rubber. NMN has filler... for bulk. Gorilla glue is very strong thin and reacts with moisture to expand/cure... low pressure... fills gaps... ok to sand. But urethane has much much better resistance to fatigue, moisture, and chemicals... try some... $8... big bottle. Keep it closed when not using...
Might be 6 and 1/2 dozen kinda thing. Guys I know like the Urethane because you don't have to be fanatic with the clamps like you do with PVA. You have to pressure on PVA to ensure the joint doesn't "starve" while the PVA is shrinking.
Lot of gues are using PVA for edge to edge (making wide section) and using gorilla for corner joints, mortise tenons... that sorta stuff
Lot of gues are using PVA for edge to edge (making wide section) and using gorilla for corner joints, mortise tenons... that sorta stuff
One of my hobbies is guitarmaking. Guitar makers are very interseted in the long term holding power of glues since the average steel string guitar is under a constant 200 lbs of tension (160 lbs for a nylon string).
The glue of choice for amateurs, professionals and factories (e.g Martin, Gibson, Fender, etc) alike is PVA - like Franklin Titebond. I have not experienced or heard of serious creeping problems or 20 year lifespans or such.
In fact I once had the pleasure of watching Pete Townsend doing his guitar smashing "thing" in person - and the wood broke before the glue.
I use Polyurethane glue (Gorilla) for outdoor repairs to my house and lawn furniture etc. For fine woodworking I don't like the way it foams up and expands. It just doesn't seem made for clean precision work. But maybe I haven't given it a fair shake because of the success I've had with PVA.
Regards,
Graeme
The glue of choice for amateurs, professionals and factories (e.g Martin, Gibson, Fender, etc) alike is PVA - like Franklin Titebond. I have not experienced or heard of serious creeping problems or 20 year lifespans or such.
In fact I once had the pleasure of watching Pete Townsend doing his guitar smashing "thing" in person - and the wood broke before the glue.
I use Polyurethane glue (Gorilla) for outdoor repairs to my house and lawn furniture etc. For fine woodworking I don't like the way it foams up and expands. It just doesn't seem made for clean precision work. But maybe I haven't given it a fair shake because of the success I've had with PVA.
Regards,
Graeme
As a woodworker, I can help out with a couple of things. First, I tend to use Titebond (a PVA) for all my joints. It works wonders, isn't overly expensive, and have seen numerous demonstrations where the wood fails before the glue joint.
While stuff like Gorilla glue seem great for filling gaps, do NOT rely on that gap filling for structural strength. That foam has NO structural strength. Also the foaming, if not handled properly can cause problems as well with pushing joints apart.
Personally, I would look at making the best/tightest joint I could, then use Titebond (or equivalent) to secure the joints together. Part of the starving of joints that people talk about comes from over use of clamps. You only want to tighten the joint until a little bit of glue comes out, otherwise, you're over-tightening and can squeeze out too much glue. (Unless, of course, you put a ton of glue in the joint to begin with)
Hope this helps out with some of the arguments!
While stuff like Gorilla glue seem great for filling gaps, do NOT rely on that gap filling for structural strength. That foam has NO structural strength. Also the foaming, if not handled properly can cause problems as well with pushing joints apart.
Personally, I would look at making the best/tightest joint I could, then use Titebond (or equivalent) to secure the joints together. Part of the starving of joints that people talk about comes from over use of clamps. You only want to tighten the joint until a little bit of glue comes out, otherwise, you're over-tightening and can squeeze out too much glue. (Unless, of course, you put a ton of glue in the joint to begin with)
Hope this helps out with some of the arguments!
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