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Old 11th April 2005, 09:00 AM   #1
Did it Himself
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Question Glue for speaker boxes

I have been using 'No More Nails' glue for my speaker boxes. I believe this is called 'construction glue' and is different from proper wood glue. It supposedly bonds all kinds of materials and has fairly high grab, and (wet) excess wipes away with a damp cloth. I have found it sets quite hard (so good for small gap filling).

Should I really be using proper wood glue? If so why?
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Old 11th April 2005, 09:08 AM   #2
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Wood glue is much stronger with tight joints. For ...erm "variable" joints, then No Nails is fine, though not as strong ultimately. Still, it's more than good enough for the loads experienced by a speaker cab in a domestic setting.
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Old 11th April 2005, 09:15 AM   #3
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I use this stuff - LINK - it's amazing. It expands as it dries so it fills any little holes and you can just cut off the excess with a knife. A tube like that'll last you years, you never need to use much. Strong too.
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Old 11th April 2005, 10:18 AM   #4
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Thanks guys. I was wondering if it wasn't a good idea. I used wood glue in the past for all my boxes, but always have No More Nails in the cupboard due to house DIY, and I'm trying to be a minimalist

The No More Nails seems a bit better on any gaps as it dries hard unlike wood glue which is very slightly rubbery and so a pain when it comes to finishing.
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Old 12th April 2005, 01:15 AM   #5
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I use "Gorilla Glue", a urethane glue similar to that in tom daghdha's link. Truely impressive stuff! Sets hard, and foams slightly so it fills any gaps. Cured glue is easily sanded and cut.
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Old 20th December 2005, 07:51 PM   #6
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An update after speaking with a professional cabinet maker. He says I should use proper PVA wood glue as No More Nails doesn't squeeze out of the gaps very well on tight joints? Since doing some research on mainly US based woodworking supplies websites, all the new-fangled wood glues seem to be polyurethene based, which No More Nails is. So is NMN really the best stuff?

Do you really want the glue to expand? Surely that upsets the joints? If there is a little surplus glue in there then that would just fill the gaps itself?
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Old 20th December 2005, 09:28 PM   #7
rjb is offline rjb  New Zealand
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An alternative is the various two pot epoxies such as used in boat building. I use the West system. Very strong, and better for thin materials as you can then strengthen the connection with fibreglass tape on internal corners. Can be made gap-filling with additives.Need to ensure mix ratios correct and temperature warm enough. A bit messy, but sands nicely.
Note PVA does tend to loose strength after about twenty years, particularly in damp environments, however I have never had any problems with speaker boxes due to this, only on things like drawers, which are subject to continual movement.
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Old 20th December 2005, 09:36 PM   #8
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I use Selley's Aquadhere, designed for marine wood bonding. I don't expect to sail anywhere on my speakers (but you can't be too sure )
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Old 20th December 2005, 09:38 PM   #9
poobah is offline poobah  United States
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Actually PVA shrinks... why you must use clamps. Epoxy is best but expensive and sands like rubber. NMN has filler... for bulk. Gorilla glue is very strong thin and reacts with moisture to expand/cure... low pressure... fills gaps... ok to sand. But urethane has much much better resistance to fatigue, moisture, and chemicals... try some... $8... big bottle. Keep it closed when not using...
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Old 20th December 2005, 10:02 PM   #10
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wouldn't you want to shrink though?

assuming you have a well built cabinet and the seems are a tight fit...

the shrinking glue would in fact bring the wood fibers closer together right?
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