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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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How hard would you have to pound a 3/16" thick 10"x16" sheet of plywood in the middle so that it would suffer permanent damage? (i.e. cracking)
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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That's very thin. Assuming it is only supported at the edges, a fist or boot should easily do it. A point load like a hammer blow will punch a nice neat hole.
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SouthEast
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Well, as pinkmouse hinted at, it depends in large part on the manner of loading. Evenly distributed normal force, like a pressure? Point loaded somewhere? A load spread over a defined footprint?
The boundary conditions also contribute significantly to the result. Are the edges constrained only by orthogonal 3/16" panels? Glued to a solid structure, like a workbench? Somewhere in between, like glued using wedge blocks to 3/4" orthogonal sides? Lots of variables there to be able to begin formulating even a ballpark figure. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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The top will be fixed atop the 4 sides of a rectangular box (plus the bottom panel, but that doesn't really matter much). The side panel thickness isn't restricted to any range, so the material can be 1/2", 3/4", 1", etc. This is actually for a arcade-style control panel (joystick + buttons).
Something like this: http://www.arcadereview.com/images/finaltop.jpg http://www.arcadereview.com/images/finalbottom.jpg http://www.arcadereview.com/images/finalbottomhole.jpg You can consider the recessed areas to be the actual thickness of the entire top. Obviously I won't intentionally hit the top hard, but I may lose my self-control on occasion and slap the top (probably near the center). |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Prairie Wasteland, Canada
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If you can live with something closer to 1/4"(actually 7mm), I can send to you a panel of some 'super baltic birch' made for Mercedes transport trucks. It is made of thinner plys glued to each other with a hard epoxy, and comes finished with a black cherry coloured resin. It is extremely stiff and tough. I just got a truckload of this stuff.
I (just now) grabbed a piece, 10"x12", clamped the narrow end in my woodworking vise, grabbed onto the top of it and pulled, I put both my feet on my work bench so I was literally hanging from it and pulled, it bent a bit. It finally broke when I gave it a strong sharp tug...and I fell on my butt, hard. I took another piece of similiar size, placed it accross a couple saw horses and punched the middle hard, it punched back harder. I hit it harder and it creaked a bit. I focused, and palm struck it as hard as I could and it broke...I doubt you'd ever get that angry with any game. I tried another piece and hit it with a hammer...it took a few really hard knocks before breaking. Keep in mind I weigh ~200lbs and am physically fit...used to fight a bit too I'll do a full post about this material in a new thread in a day or two...I just got it. I'll send out some some samples to interested forum members. I think it has a lot of validity for use in small speaker enclosure construction, large sections have some flex...but all that will be talked about in the new thread.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Prairie Wasteland, Canada
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Ahh, I just took a look at the pics you linked to. I assume you want to use 3/16" so you don't have to machine the recesses for the buttons. You may be able to use the slightly thicker material if you trim a bit of length off those retaining clips. They're plastic so you could just file them down.
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Fighting the program since 1976. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Ah... I didn't think of shortening the clips so that they allow a thicker material to be squeezed. Only problem is, I'm worried about not shortening to the right depth, and making sure all the modifications are uniform.
Regardless, the material you are talking about seems almost purpose-built for me. By the way, you didn't have to injure yourself on my behalf (not to mention destroying good wood.) |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Prairie Wasteland, Canada
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>By the way, you didn't have to injure yourself on my behalf (not to mention destroying good wood.)
It was all in the name of curiosity. I would have done it anyway.
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Fighting the program since 1976. |
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#9 | |
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frugal-phile(tm)
diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
dave
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community sites t-linespeakers.org, frugal-horn.com ........ commercial site planet10-HiFi p10-hifi forum here at diyA |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
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Quote:
Are at least one of the faces natural wood? If so, can it be stained? |
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Super baltic birch | Illusus | Everything Else | 59 | 17th January 2011 02:44 PM |
| Stain on Baltic birch | flaevor | Multi-Way | 10 | 12th November 2006 12:15 AM |
| working with baltic birch plywood | morbo | Multi-Way | 55 | 17th September 2005 05:09 PM |
| Baltic Birch and MDF? | downward_dog | Subwoofers | 6 | 12th January 2005 11:09 PM |
| Where can I buy Baltic Birch Plywood? | Richard Moon | Multi-Way | 3 | 4th December 2003 12:51 AM |
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