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Old 17th March 2005, 09:49 PM   #11
jleaman is offline jleaman  Belgium
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Quote:
Originally posted by moamps


Hi,
your fuse implementation doesn't look safe and practical.
Why not use an insulated version (with optional two pin socket)?

Regards,
Milan


I agree. Peter you say that there is little room in the chassis but yet you use a opene ended fuse that could cause some kinda short. If Your idea's are so well thought out. then how come this one was not ?


Again this is not safe at all. CSA would walk all over this.
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Old 17th March 2005, 09:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by jleaman




I agree. Peter you say that there is little room in the chassis but yet you use a opene ended fuse that could cause some kinda short. If Your idea's are so well thought out. then how come this one was not ?


Again this is not safe at all. CSA would walk all over this.
Well Jason, in this case I will not be able to send you the board, sorry.
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Old 17th March 2005, 09:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by moamps


Hi,
your fuse implementation doesn't look safe and practical.
Why not use an insulated version (with optional two pin socket)?

Regards,
Milan
I need a fuse assembly that is not more than 1/4" high (above the board) and insulated in case of maximum height. Don't worry, I will find a proper one. The one in a picture is just for testing, it is not permanent instalation, although for my personal use I wouldn't care less what fuse is there.
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Old 17th March 2005, 09:54 PM   #14
jleaman is offline jleaman  Belgium
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Quote:
Originally posted by Peter Daniel


Well Jason, in this case I will not be able to send you the board, sorry.


Thought so. : O )

But hey that is ok.

This is what one get's to helping one..
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Old 18th March 2005, 08:53 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by Vikash
why all the fuss ?
Just maybe because safety of customers IS an issue in most countries ?

The PCB looks nice but when showing a pic like that one can expect comments. Certainly when a DIY kit is involved security should not be an issue that needs discussing. If the manufacturer had spent one minute soldering a proper fuseholder the discussion would have been about the most important parameter of the thing.

I am afraid provocation with comments like these:

Quote:
Originally posted by Peter Daniel

And lastly, a properly designed device, shouldn't require fuse change in its lifetime, so why would you need a socket for?
will only heat up the fire and draw wrong attention.
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Old 18th March 2005, 02:06 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by jean-paul


Just maybe because safety of customers IS an issue in most countries ?

The PCB looks nice but when showing a pic like that one can expect comments. Certainly when a DIY kit is involved security should not be an issue that needs discussing. If the manufacturer had spent one minute soldering a proper fuseholder the discussion would have been about the most important parameter of the thing.

I am afraid provocation with comments like these:



will only heat up the fire and draw wrong attention.
Well, I never mentioned I will be offering that particular board as kit, did I? Actually this board was designed specifically for AudioZone DAC and I'm really hesitant to mix it with DIY market. That's why I still didn't post any info on my site. It seems like preocuppation with fuses is much more important that the parts of the DAC.

The board has also a scoring line, and two parts (PS and DAC section) can be separated. I'm pretty aware of implications and danger of selling AC powered board to end customer, that's why the best approach would probably be offering the board without AC section. AC section could available on special request, after signing release form.

As to the soldered fuse needing replacement, in all my years of using stereo equipment, I never had a single case when I had to replace fuse in source equipment. I changed countles fusses in power amps, but never in line sources. That was one other reason I've chosen soldering option.
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Old 18th March 2005, 02:18 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by Peter Daniel
Well, I never mentioned I will be offering that particular board as kit, did I? Actually this board was designed specifically for AudioZone DAC and I'm really hesitant to mix it with DIY market. That's why I still didn't post any info on my site. It seems like preocuppation with fuses is much more important that the parts of the DAC.
Peter, if you act like a pro I think it's your duty to do what you can when it comes to electrical safety and regulations. If you aren't so good in this, just ask because some things are pretty easy like creepage distance and usage of approved parts.

The electrical issue is not twice as important in 230 v countries, probably 3-4 times more important, the voltage is more lethal than 120 V.

The reason I point this out is not because I want to critize you, the opposite in fact.
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Old 18th March 2005, 02:40 PM   #18
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I really recommend wooden enclosure for DIY, as this not only sounds the best, but also takes care of creepage distance issues, that Peranders is concerned so much about.
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Old 18th March 2005, 02:46 PM   #19
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Peter, you misunderstand. Creepage is between primary side and secondary side. You can touch anything metallic like the volume knob, the ground of a RCA jack, the tone arm, the push buttons of a CD player etc, not only the case.

I'll hope this was ment as joke and I think quite honestly that you shouldn't joke about safety issues. I can agree on that some things seems to be ridiculous but have you seen damages in electrical equipment you will also understand better. I have seen quite a bit when things have gone broken and note "approved" things. I can just imagine what could have happend if there have been more "unapproved" things out there.
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Old 18th March 2005, 02:52 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by peranders
Peter, you misunderstand. Creepage is between primary side and secondary side. You can touch anything metallic like the volume knob, the ground of a RCA jack, the tone arm, the push buttons of a CD player etc, not only the case.

I'll hope this was ment as joke and I think quite honestly that you shouldn't joke about safety issues. I can agree on that some things seems to be ridiculous but have you seen damages in electrical equipment you will also understand better. I have seen quite a bit when things have gone broken and note "approved" things. I can just imagine what could have happend if there have been more "unapproved" things out there.
It was not meant as a joke. With 3/4" wooden enclosure, there is no creepage issues, you are talking about.

For that matter, with 3/8 standoffs and appropriate fuse, there is not creepage issues even with a metal tubing.
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