writing on chassis

benny · 11th June 2004, 03:26 PM

Hi All,

I was wondering if anyone out there had any good ideas on how to write on a metal chassis (in this case I’m asking for, I’m using aluminium).

All of my projects so far, I’ve just hand written on the chassis, but for my next project I want to make it look a little more professional. I don’t want to do any by hand, so I don’t want to hand write or engrave.

So any other suggestions? Like are there any transfer materials around that I could print something off from the computer, and then transfer it onto the chassis and then just protect with clear lacquer? Any better ideas?

Thanks for any help anyone offers.

Cheers

chipco3434 · 11th June 2004, 03:31 PM

acid etch? Coat aluminum in resin, scratch through resin with sharp stylus, acid dip and remove resin.

benny · 11th June 2004, 03:59 PM

thanks, good idea... but i'm still trying to avoid the 'handwriting' side of it... i just think it will look better if i can avoid doing it with my hand... my handwriting with a pen and a paper is bad enough let alone doing it with anything else. i just want everything to look even and profesional... thanks for the idea though.

cheers

beerguy0 · 11th June 2004, 04:31 PM

Check your local art supply or hobby store. They should carry rub-on lettering, in various sizes, fonts, and colors. They also should have the clear coat to protect it. One brand of coating is Data Kote. You definitely need to coat it, as the lettering scratches off very easily. About the only caveat is that if you are working in a confined space, such as inside a box, aligning the lettering can be tricky.

Another way would be to get a label maker, the kind that prints on different tapes. You can make up all your labels at once, cut them apart and apply. I've used both methods on work projects, like test fixtures, etc.

A third way is to just make up your labels in Word or a text editor, cut them apart, and tape them in place with small bits of transparent tape.

Cheers,

bg

benny · 11th June 2004, 04:39 PM

thanks for those beerguy,

i just had a thought then about what would happen if i used one of those iron on transfer things you can buy to print on t-shirts with... even though they're made for transfering to fabric, do you think metal would take the transfer or wouldn't it stick??? anyone else?

thanks for your help

beerguy0 · 11th June 2004, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by benny
thanks for those beerguy,

i just had a thought then about what would happen if i used one of those iron on transfer things you can buy to print on t-shirts with... even though they're made for transfering to fabric, do you think metal would take the transfer or wouldn't it stick??? anyone else?

thanks for your help

Not sure it that stuff would stick to metal. I suppose the only way to find out is to try it. I'm not sure what kind of resolution you would get with that method. The lettering might come kind of fuzzy. It would also likely also need to be coated, or it would scratch off.

Cheers,

bg

Christer · 11th June 2004, 04:46 PM

If you want black lettering you can probably use the toner
transfer method described here
PCB making: Toner transfer method
and elsewhere on the forum. It is intended for making PCBs but
I can't see any reason it shouldn't work also putting lettering
on panels. Some transparent coating of top of it all is advisable
though.

The bigger problem is to create white lettering on black panels,
which we also discussed a while ago. I think the conclusion
was it was probably best to etch out the lettering, as if
etching a PCB. Then it should be easy to get white paint to
stay in the etched areas and clean it away elsewhere, or
for aluminium someone suggested that no paint is necessary
even.

benny · 11th June 2004, 04:55 PM

thanks all for your help... i will try a couple of these before i do the final one. if anyone else has any more good ideas, please let me know, but for now i think i've been given plenty of good ideas. thanks

NigelB · 11th June 2004, 10:44 PM

I haven't tried this but I have read elswhere it is a good but cheaper way than etching.
I guess the idea is, once the decal is applied, to spray fix with a very tough clear coat.

http://www.beldecal.com/inkjet_decals.cfm

benny · 13th June 2004, 11:54 AM

thanks nigel.. that's exactly the thing i wanted!!!

now i wonder if i can find it in aus without shipping from o/seas... if i can't then i guess i'll just ship.

thanks again

cheers

11th June 2004, 03:26 PM	#1
benny diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Melbourne, Australia	writing on chassis Hi All, I was wondering if anyone out there had any good ideas on how to write on a metal chassis (in this case I’m asking for, I’m using aluminium). All of my projects so far, I’ve just hand written on the chassis, but for my next project I want to make it look a little more professional. I don’t want to do any by hand, so I don’t want to hand write or engrave. So any other suggestions? Like are there any transfer materials around that I could print something off from the computer, and then transfer it onto the chassis and then just protect with clear lacquer? Any better ideas? Thanks for any help anyone offers. Cheers

11th June 2004, 04:31 PM	#4
beerguy0 diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Upstate NY	Check your local art supply or hobby store. They should carry rub-on lettering, in various sizes, fonts, and colors. They also should have the clear coat to protect it. One brand of coating is Data Kote. You definitely need to coat it, as the lettering scratches off very easily. About the only caveat is that if you are working in a confined space, such as inside a box, aligning the lettering can be tricky. Another way would be to get a label maker, the kind that prints on different tapes. You can make up all your labels at once, cut them apart and apply. I've used both methods on work projects, like test fixtures, etc. A third way is to just make up your labels in Word or a text editor, cut them apart, and tape them in place with small bits of transparent tape. Cheers, bg __________________ beerguy

11th June 2004, 10:44 PM	#9
NigelB diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Los Angeles	Water slide decals I haven't tried this but I have read elswhere it is a good but cheaper way than etching. I guess the idea is, once the decal is applied, to spray fix with a very tough clear coat. http://www.beldecal.com/inkjet_decals.cfm

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11th June 2004, 03:31 PM	#2
chipco3434 diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Racine, Wisconsin	acid etch? Coat aluminum in resin, scratch through resin with sharp stylus, acid dip and remove resin.

11th June 2004, 03:59 PM	#3
benny diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Melbourne, Australia	thanks, good idea... but i'm still trying to avoid the 'handwriting' side of it... i just think it will look better if i can avoid doing it with my hand... my handwriting with a pen and a paper is bad enough let alone doing it with anything else. i just want everything to look even and profesional... thanks for the idea though. cheers

11th June 2004, 04:39 PM	#5
benny diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Melbourne, Australia	thanks for those beerguy, i just had a thought then about what would happen if i used one of those iron on transfer things you can buy to print on t-shirts with... even though they're made for transfering to fabric, do you think metal would take the transfer or wouldn't it stick??? anyone else? thanks for your help

11th June 2004, 04:46 PM	#7
Christer diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Sweden	If you want black lettering you can probably use the toner transfer method described here PCB making: Toner transfer method and elsewhere on the forum. It is intended for making PCBs but I can't see any reason it shouldn't work also putting lettering on panels. Some transparent coating of top of it all is advisable though. The bigger problem is to create white lettering on black panels, which we also discussed a while ago. I think the conclusion was it was probably best to etch out the lettering, as if etching a PCB. Then it should be easy to get white paint to stay in the etched areas and clean it away elsewhere, or for aluminium someone suggested that no paint is necessary even.

11th June 2004, 04:55 PM	#8
benny diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Melbourne, Australia	thanks all for your help... i will try a couple of these before i do the final one. if anyone else has any more good ideas, please let me know, but for now i think i've been given plenty of good ideas. thanks

13th June 2004, 11:54 AM	#10
benny diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Melbourne, Australia	thanks nigel.. that's exactly the thing i wanted!!! now i wonder if i can find it in aus without shipping from o/seas... if i can't then i guess i'll just ship. thanks again cheers

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