Hi All,
I was wondering if anyone out there had any good ideas on how to write on a metal chassis (in this case I’m asking for, I’m using aluminium).
All of my projects so far, I’ve just hand written on the chassis, but for my next project I want to make it look a little more professional. I don’t want to do any by hand, so I don’t want to hand write or engrave.
So any other suggestions? Like are there any transfer materials around that I could print something off from the computer, and then transfer it onto the chassis and then just protect with clear lacquer? Any better ideas?
Thanks for any help anyone offers.
Cheers
I was wondering if anyone out there had any good ideas on how to write on a metal chassis (in this case I’m asking for, I’m using aluminium).
All of my projects so far, I’ve just hand written on the chassis, but for my next project I want to make it look a little more professional. I don’t want to do any by hand, so I don’t want to hand write or engrave.
So any other suggestions? Like are there any transfer materials around that I could print something off from the computer, and then transfer it onto the chassis and then just protect with clear lacquer? Any better ideas?
Thanks for any help anyone offers.
Cheers
thanks, good idea... but i'm still trying to avoid the 'handwriting' side of it... i just think it will look better if i can avoid doing it with my hand... my handwriting with a pen and a paper is bad enough let alone doing it with anything else. i just want everything to look even and profesional... thanks for the idea though.
cheers
cheers
Check your local art supply or hobby store. They should carry rub-on lettering, in various sizes, fonts, and colors. They also should have the clear coat to protect it. One brand of coating is Data Kote. You definitely need to coat it, as the lettering scratches off very easily. About the only caveat is that if you are working in a confined space, such as inside a box, aligning the lettering can be tricky.
Another way would be to get a label maker, the kind that prints on different tapes. You can make up all your labels at once, cut them apart and apply. I've used both methods on work projects, like test fixtures, etc.
A third way is to just make up your labels in Word or a text editor, cut them apart, and tape them in place with small bits of transparent tape.
Cheers,
bg
Another way would be to get a label maker, the kind that prints on different tapes. You can make up all your labels at once, cut them apart and apply. I've used both methods on work projects, like test fixtures, etc.
A third way is to just make up your labels in Word or a text editor, cut them apart, and tape them in place with small bits of transparent tape.
Cheers,
bg
thanks for those beerguy,
i just had a thought then about what would happen if i used one of those iron on transfer things you can buy to print on t-shirts with... even though they're made for transfering to fabric, do you think metal would take the transfer or wouldn't it stick??? anyone else?
thanks for your help
i just had a thought then about what would happen if i used one of those iron on transfer things you can buy to print on t-shirts with... even though they're made for transfering to fabric, do you think metal would take the transfer or wouldn't it stick??? anyone else?
thanks for your help
benny said:
Not sure it that stuff would stick to metal. I suppose the only way to find out is to try it. I'm not sure what kind of resolution you would get with that method. The lettering might come kind of fuzzy. It would also likely also need to be coated, or it would scratch off.
Cheers,
bg
If you want black lettering you can probably use the toner
transfer method described here
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34752&highlight=
and elsewhere on the forum. It is intended for making PCBs but
I can't see any reason it shouldn't work also putting lettering
on panels. Some transparent coating of top of it all is advisable
though.
The bigger problem is to create white lettering on black panels,
which we also discussed a while ago. I think the conclusion
was it was probably best to etch out the lettering, as if
etching a PCB. Then it should be easy to get white paint to
stay in the etched areas and clean it away elsewhere, or
for aluminium someone suggested that no paint is necessary
even.
transfer method described here
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34752&highlight=
and elsewhere on the forum. It is intended for making PCBs but
I can't see any reason it shouldn't work also putting lettering
on panels. Some transparent coating of top of it all is advisable
though.
The bigger problem is to create white lettering on black panels,
which we also discussed a while ago. I think the conclusion
was it was probably best to etch out the lettering, as if
etching a PCB. Then it should be easy to get white paint to
stay in the etched areas and clean it away elsewhere, or
for aluminium someone suggested that no paint is necessary
even.
Water slide decals
I haven't tried this but I have read elswhere it is a good but cheaper way than etching.
I guess the idea is, once the decal is applied, to spray fix with a very tough clear coat.
http://www.beldecal.com/inkjet_decals.cfm
I haven't tried this but I have read elswhere it is a good but cheaper way than etching.
I guess the idea is, once the decal is applied, to spray fix with a very tough clear coat.
http://www.beldecal.com/inkjet_decals.cfm
Another easy way which gives respectable results is to print off your artwork onto OHP acetate (reversed, so that it's scratch resistant).
Trimmed to the panel size, it can be held in place by channelling at the edge, or sandwiched between the panel and a sheet of rigid acrylic, etc. Double-sided tape helps too, hidden behind controls or decorative masking.
For less demanding applications, it can be stuck down with Spraymount, but I've never managed to make the glue completely invisible, though firm burnishing helps.
Trimmed to the panel size, it can be held in place by channelling at the edge, or sandwiched between the panel and a sheet of rigid acrylic, etc. Double-sided tape helps too, hidden behind controls or decorative masking.
For less demanding applications, it can be stuck down with Spraymount, but I've never managed to make the glue completely invisible, though firm burnishing helps.
Hi,
thanks for informing me. And thankyou all for your ideas. They have been very helpful.
i don't know of anything that will let you lay it out to scale so you can print a scale panel layout you can just chuck straight on.... I was just gunna use MS word and print onto normal paper and adjust till it prints one that fits. then get my final paper, whichever one, wether i use acetate or transfer film...
cheers.
thanks for informing me. And thankyou all for your ideas. They have been very helpful.
i don't know of anything that will let you lay it out to scale so you can print a scale panel layout you can just chuck straight on.... I was just gunna use MS word and print onto normal paper and adjust till it prints one that fits. then get my final paper, whichever one, wether i use acetate or transfer film...
cheers.
I use black rackmounts as my chasses, and I want to make white decals in a non-standard font (Elegant Garamond), so I can't rely on label makers or such things. As for etching, the problem is the front is anodized aluminum, and the rest is steel. So what procedure would allow me to etch both materials so I can label both front and rear?
If you don't care about having the aluminum show through the labeling, the easiest and cheapest way to go is to print a 1:1 panel layout on your choice of papers -if you have an inkjet printer you can even print in color on glossy paper. Spray the back of the paper and the panel with spray-on adhesive, then put the two together.
I did that here:
http://mark.rehorst.com/Strobe/LED_strobe.jpg
If you want durability you can laminate the paper before you stick it to the chassis.
This technique works well for when you need to fabricate parts, too. You simply print the pattern 1:1, glue it to the metal/wood/plastic/etc. then cut/drill. I have used this technique many times. Here's an example:
http://mark.rehorst.com/CF_Bike/dropouts_ready_for_drilling.JPG
I_F
I did that here:
http://mark.rehorst.com/Strobe/LED_strobe.jpg
If you want durability you can laminate the paper before you stick it to the chassis.
This technique works well for when you need to fabricate parts, too. You simply print the pattern 1:1, glue it to the metal/wood/plastic/etc. then cut/drill. I have used this technique many times. Here's an example:
http://mark.rehorst.com/CF_Bike/dropouts_ready_for_drilling.JPG
I_F
Dry transfer lettering works a treat and you can can audio words plus the single letters. Got mine from Parts Express but I'm sure there are others.
Datak Corporation, Datamark dry transfer. I ended up using the K58 set for audio, TV and Hi Fi.
Used to clear coat over the top, but don't bother now and sticks really well.... try and get the suckers off when you make a mistake or reuse the case
Here's an example (not the best photo to set them off).
Datak Corporation, Datamark dry transfer. I ended up using the K58 set for audio, TV and Hi Fi.
Used to clear coat over the top, but don't bother now and sticks really well.... try and get the suckers off when you make a mistake or reuse the case
Here's an example (not the best photo to set them off).
Attachments
rabbitz said:
That doesn't really jam with this:
Nixie said:
The transfer lettering was already mentioned in post #4, but obviously doesn't fit my requirement, which is why I posted. So your suggestion is either inappropriate due to the obviously conflicting requirement I posted, or, if you were replying to the whole thread instead, redundant due to post #4. Either way, I suggest from now on you actually read threads you reply to.
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