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Old 15th June 2004, 08:28 PM   #11
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Location: South Sweden
Christer, do you think that you can check the article number?
I havent been able to find any paper with the weight (220 gr/m2) that you menition on biltemas webpage (www.biltema.se)

ps. tip before anyone takes of on a long journey, check first in the store that the intended gods are in stock. Biltema is notorious for keeping low stock in their warehouses, and long time between fillups.

I have been dissapointed sooo many times. Fortunately I live only 5 kms from a warehouse.

/rickard
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Old 15th June 2004, 11:02 PM   #12
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Article number 23-771

It says "Glossy" on the package, the other one doesn't, but
maybe both papers work, I haven't tried the other one. I have
a suspicion, but it is only a speculation, that this paper is good
because it is cheap quality and perhaps not as good for its
intended use as better photo papers. While other photo papers
seem to contain a lot of plastic or similar stuff, this seems to be
real paper, except for the coating.

Happy ironing!
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Old 16th June 2004, 06:42 PM   #13
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I had a link to a danish webpage where they recommended
EPSON Photo Quality Glossy Paper type: SO41126

but the page is no more. Fortunately I have saved it onto my harddrive. Quite good explanation too.
I can send the file if anyone is interested.

/rickard
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Old 18th June 2004, 03:59 PM   #14
air is offline air  Finland
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rikkitikkitavi: If you could email it to me, it would be great! Thank you!
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Old 18th June 2004, 04:29 PM   #15
markp is offline markp  United States
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I've used clear transpearancy(sp?) sheets with good luck. Nice fine detail and you can see the image through the sheet too which is kind of helpfull. To fix any small defects I use a 'Sharpie' waterproof marker that does a great job. The acid is repelled by the ink.
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Old 2nd July 2004, 09:45 AM   #16
getafix is offline getafix  Philippines
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp
I've used clear transpearancy(sp?) sheets with good luck. Nice fine detail and you can see the image through the sheet too which is kind of helpfull. To fix any small defects I use a 'Sharpie' waterproof marker that does a great job. The acid is repelled by the ink.
how do you iron it on the copper board?
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Old 3rd July 2004, 11:28 AM   #17
nuppe is offline nuppe  Sweden
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I tried this with some Canon paper (GP-401) i have, and it works great. The canon paper peels right off after the toner has melted, no need to soak it in water. Don't know if this works with more complicated patterns and traces, but it worked with a simple test pattern with component pads. Haven't tried the Biltema paper, but maybe it works the same way?

I removed the film residue with a moist "scotch brite" kind of spunge, the white type that is less abrasive. Very easy to do and the traces didn't take any harm.

Btw, i messed around some with painting patterns directly with a plotter before, but this method is much easier and the results are much more detailed. The limit is how good your printer is, with the plotter less than about 0.3 mm aren't possible because the pen tips break.

/Andreas
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Old 3rd July 2004, 04:30 PM   #18
markp is offline markp  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by getafix


how do you iron it on the copper board?
The toner comes right off the plastic sheet with an iron just like the commercial product. The sharpie is used AFTER the pattern has been ironed on the board to fix the holes in the traces if any.
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Old 5th July 2004, 06:01 AM   #19
getafix is offline getafix  Philippines
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won't the transparency melt? do you put a layer of paper between the transparency and iron? is the iron set at a high temperature?
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Old 6th July 2004, 03:35 PM   #20
markp is offline markp  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by getafix
won't the transparency melt? do you put a layer of paper between the transparency and iron? is the iron set at a high temperature?
I set the iron for cotton and iron directly on the transpearancy. The transpearancy is made for the high temps of a laser printer and a projector so there is no problem with melting it.
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