Re: Word Art?
Or Catia V4 or V5. But V4 is now outdated and unsupported by Dassault Systemmes in favor of V5, which really is a completely new and seperate entity than V4. The last release of V5 I saw in operation ran circles around SW and ProE in terms of capabilities. But a functional seat of SW is about $4k and an equivalent V5 seat is nearly double....
Start with a desired accuracy, say .1mm for simplicity. Make a new Paint Shop Pro drawing of 2020 x 540 pixels. Place your text and geometries as you desire. Make sure you print with a 1/10 zoom and there ya have it. 8)
baggystevo82 said:
Or Catia V4 or V5. But V4 is now outdated and unsupported by Dassault Systemmes in favor of V5, which really is a completely new and seperate entity than V4. The last release of V5 I saw in operation ran circles around SW and ProE in terms of capabilities. But a functional seat of SW is about $4k and an equivalent V5 seat is nearly double....
johnnyx said:
Start with a desired accuracy, say .1mm for simplicity. Make a new Paint Shop Pro drawing of 2020 x 540 pixels. Place your text and geometries as you desire. Make sure you print with a 1/10 zoom and there ya have it. 8)
Maybe this is a stupid question, but once you print the front panel artwork, how do you get it on the front panel? Is there some sort of iron-on transfer paper that would work? I could very easily make most of the labels/etc on my computer, but I don't know how to get it from there to the panel.
I believe there is a company called Front Panels that does all of it for you. They have their own easy to use software, IIR, and you just send them the file and some money....
A tip I very recently read (in summary):
Print off the graphic with a laser printer set to highest contrast (uses the most toner) onto a semi-glossy sheet of paper. Heat up an iron (that one would use to iron clothes) to "hot". Lay a second, clean sheet of paper onto the panel, which has been neticulously cleaned. Place iron on top of the stack and leave it there for several minutes. Then remove the paper and iron. Very carefully and quickly place the artwork paper onto the hot panel - the toner will bond almost instantly so you only get one shot. Smooth down, and cover with the iron for about 30 seconds. Remove iron and then carefully remove the artwork paper when you can hold the panel. The toner should stick to the panel. Some experimentation with different papers may be in order.
Unfortunately, you only get black lettering with this method.
You could also take a printout and image file to a local screen printer, but they will not be cheap - particularly in one-offs.
A tip I very recently read (in summary):
Print off the graphic with a laser printer set to highest contrast (uses the most toner) onto a semi-glossy sheet of paper. Heat up an iron (that one would use to iron clothes) to "hot". Lay a second, clean sheet of paper onto the panel, which has been neticulously cleaned. Place iron on top of the stack and leave it there for several minutes. Then remove the paper and iron. Very carefully and quickly place the artwork paper onto the hot panel - the toner will bond almost instantly so you only get one shot. Smooth down, and cover with the iron for about 30 seconds. Remove iron and then carefully remove the artwork paper when you can hold the panel. The toner should stick to the panel. Some experimentation with different papers may be in order.
Unfortunately, you only get black lettering with this method.
You could also take a printout and image file to a local screen printer, but they will not be cheap - particularly in one-offs.
pinkmouse said:
Haha, I have seen poeple do this to...drives me crazy! But they seem to be comfortable in it. Then again I use Paint a lot, save as a BMP, then go to Photochop and save as whatever format I want.
Theres also that stuff that has like a ton of letters on a clear page, and you use a pen and rub it on a surface. I think its called dry transfer or something. Similar to the Laserjet think, just on a smaller scale.
BTW Baggiestevo82 the Ultima GTR is so freaking sweat!!!!!! Defienently my dream car, even if it is only $80K
Or build one from a kit for about £20K
you don't have to pay in one go either, basically buy the chassis for £3000 and build it up from there over a few years. Its definitely my plan once im done with uni and earning some pennies Does the laser printer thing work then? Ill definitely give that a try at some point!
Steve
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