Hoping to get advice about implementing electronic control for halogen stove burner elements.
I recently picked up a used Defy stove with glass top (Ceran). Since I worked with a heat test chamber that uses halogen lights for elements, I was intrigued by this kind of stove. For an electric element, they heat up very quickly. But I soon discovered that heat regulation is not good. I think the problem is with the design of the temperature control. The temperature control knob uses a thermo-electrical setup (bimetal strip) to control power to the element. Essentially, it switches the element on and off, with longer periods of on as you adjust the temperature higher at the knob. This works OK with spiral plates and solid plates. With spiral plates, maximum temperature is fairly OK; with solid plates, the thermal mass of the plate evens out temperature fluctuations. But the problem with halogens is that the maximum temperature achieved is exceedingly high. So, although the turn-on/turn-off action happens, the pot gets periodically hot enough to burn the contents, even on the lowest setting. It looks like they are using the same temperature control scheme on all types of plates!
Now, I want to build my own temperature controller, using electronics. It shouldn't be too difficult, but I would like to know if anyone here knows something that I should be aware of. The plate uses infra-red radiation as its primary means of heating, with some conduction and convection also in the mix. You can see the plate glow luminously red. If, at the lower temperatures, I regulate the heater such that it does not glow, will it affect the functioning (efficiency)?
I recently picked up a used Defy stove with glass top (Ceran). Since I worked with a heat test chamber that uses halogen lights for elements, I was intrigued by this kind of stove. For an electric element, they heat up very quickly. But I soon discovered that heat regulation is not good. I think the problem is with the design of the temperature control. The temperature control knob uses a thermo-electrical setup (bimetal strip) to control power to the element. Essentially, it switches the element on and off, with longer periods of on as you adjust the temperature higher at the knob. This works OK with spiral plates and solid plates. With spiral plates, maximum temperature is fairly OK; with solid plates, the thermal mass of the plate evens out temperature fluctuations. But the problem with halogens is that the maximum temperature achieved is exceedingly high. So, although the turn-on/turn-off action happens, the pot gets periodically hot enough to burn the contents, even on the lowest setting. It looks like they are using the same temperature control scheme on all types of plates!
Now, I want to build my own temperature controller, using electronics. It shouldn't be too difficult, but I would like to know if anyone here knows something that I should be aware of. The plate uses infra-red radiation as its primary means of heating, with some conduction and convection also in the mix. You can see the plate glow luminously red. If, at the lower temperatures, I regulate the heater such that it does not glow, will it affect the functioning (efficiency)?
We have the same range, except with a G.E. badge.
You may be right about the bimetal-- there's a substantial click as it cycles.
A heavy pot really helps even-out the hot/cold cycling.
No fast-boil electric heater is really good for melting chocolate etc.
Simply (??) switching one burner to run on 120V instead of 240V *may* help by cutting output to 1/4, de-peaking the hot of the cycle. (I see this may be easier in the US where we have 240/120 on the range plug; you may only have 240?)
If you settle for input control instead of temperature control, a "lamp dimmer" should work (it is nothing more than a flat heat lamp) but this is on the upper/outer end of readily available lamp dimmers.
You may be right about the bimetal-- there's a substantial click as it cycles.
A heavy pot really helps even-out the hot/cold cycling.
No fast-boil electric heater is really good for melting chocolate etc.
Simply (??) switching one burner to run on 120V instead of 240V *may* help by cutting output to 1/4, de-peaking the hot of the cycle. (I see this may be easier in the US where we have 240/120 on the range plug; you may only have 240?)
If you settle for input control instead of temperature control, a "lamp dimmer" should work (it is nothing more than a flat heat lamp) but this is on the upper/outer end of readily available lamp dimmers.
Google "glass top stove heat diffuser".
Many are variations on Simmer Mat; a dimpled iron plate which can be used with gas, coil, or glass heat.
Many are variations on Simmer Mat; a dimpled iron plate which can be used with gas, coil, or glass heat.
Shaun,
Woyaya, this is the solution. I use halogen dimmer (50Hz) triac phase controller used for stage lighting. Works a dream. There are circuits floating around the internet as drill speed controls, lamp dimmers and the like.
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