A customer's amp came in from storage with unknown damages. Turns out, there was a large mouse nest inside. Now, the electrical has been fixed (mice love certain types of wire insulation), and I would like to clean/remove the horrible odor, to ensure health + safety as well as resale value.
What can I use to remove the smell/contamination? Thanks.
Richard
What can I use to remove the smell/contamination? Thanks.
Richard
Try this ....
5oz Hydrogen Peroxide
1 tsp White Vinegar
1 tsp Baking Soda
3 - 4 drops Orange Essential Oil
Mix together in a spray bottle , spray the area and leave to dry ( overnight )
When dry vacuum the residue ( powder )
To purify afterwards ( optional )
Use 1 cup Baking Soda , 6 drops Lemon Essential Oil , mix then sprinkle the area leave overnight then vacuum .
Safe to use and works on all animal urine odour
5oz Hydrogen Peroxide
1 tsp White Vinegar
1 tsp Baking Soda
3 - 4 drops Orange Essential Oil
Mix together in a spray bottle , spray the area and leave to dry ( overnight )
When dry vacuum the residue ( powder )
To purify afterwards ( optional )
Use 1 cup Baking Soda , 6 drops Lemon Essential Oil , mix then sprinkle the area leave overnight then vacuum .
Safe to use and works on all animal urine odour
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this method neutralizes the urine.
WARNING: this is dangerous and can kill you.
mix bleach and water in a ratio of aprox 1 cup per gallon, spray it on the urine, it will foam up and release toxic and dangerous gasses. (this is similar to mixing bleach with household chemicals like ammonia)
the gasses are dangerous, it creates a toxic gases called chloramines and also can produce an explosive, volatile compound called nitrogen trichloride so make sure you do this someplace well ventilated and clean it up well when done.
when you spray it, and it doesn't foam, the urine is neutralized. for extra caution, seal the effected area with a lacquer to keep any smell from coming out when it gets moist to keep smells from coming from from deeper inside the material then the chlorine reached..
hope this helps and be safe.
WARNING: this is dangerous and can kill you.
mix bleach and water in a ratio of aprox 1 cup per gallon, spray it on the urine, it will foam up and release toxic and dangerous gasses. (this is similar to mixing bleach with household chemicals like ammonia)
the gasses are dangerous, it creates a toxic gases called chloramines and also can produce an explosive, volatile compound called nitrogen trichloride so make sure you do this someplace well ventilated and clean it up well when done.
when you spray it, and it doesn't foam, the urine is neutralized. for extra caution, seal the effected area with a lacquer to keep any smell from coming out when it gets moist to keep smells from coming from from deeper inside the material then the chlorine reached..
hope this helps and be safe.
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I got my method with the chlorine bleach and water from someone who rehabs houses for a living. the sealant method i used as extra insurance, to be accurate, was 2 parts. first coat of shellac sealer, i used bin shellac in 2 coats followed by a layer of poly urethane to protect the shellac from any wear or exposure. again this was recommendations from rehab experts.
Some people have had good results using killz i understand.
but everyone i've ever talked to who does this for a living warned STRONGLY against sealing untreated urine in wood
if you don't use the chlorine bleach method to neutralize the urine, as others have pointed out, there are enzyme based treatments.. DON'T use anything that masks the odor. that simply wont due in the long run. it MUST be neutralized.
Following the advice of rehab experts seemed to be the way to go. This topic is easily searched on the internet as the problem is common in rehabbing houses believe it or not.
I can personally speak for the chlorine neutralization and sealant method i'm now going on 10 years since treated in my own house which was a foreclosure i rehabbed that had a large amount of pet urine that made it to the suborning. were talking about not simply some small area, and its still completely odor free after 10 years. So id call it a permanent solution.
Also i have the peace of mind that it is truly neutralized and is not a health hazard to me or my family.
Id advise you read some threads on treating sub flooring in houses for pet urine, and find a method that is suitable for you and use that on the cabinet.
Lets face it, if its musical equipment or amp then it is gonna get exposed to moisture at some point... someones gonna unload there stuff in the rain, or its going to be in some damp basement... as soon as it is, the odors, if not properly treated, are going to come back. take your time, read the information out there, find a method that is a known documented long term solution., not s short term fix that some company "guarantees". find some evidence out ther from people who deal with this regularly.
Some people have had good results using killz i understand.
but everyone i've ever talked to who does this for a living warned STRONGLY against sealing untreated urine in wood
if you don't use the chlorine bleach method to neutralize the urine, as others have pointed out, there are enzyme based treatments.. DON'T use anything that masks the odor. that simply wont due in the long run. it MUST be neutralized.
Following the advice of rehab experts seemed to be the way to go. This topic is easily searched on the internet as the problem is common in rehabbing houses believe it or not.
I can personally speak for the chlorine neutralization and sealant method i'm now going on 10 years since treated in my own house which was a foreclosure i rehabbed that had a large amount of pet urine that made it to the suborning. were talking about not simply some small area, and its still completely odor free after 10 years. So id call it a permanent solution.
Also i have the peace of mind that it is truly neutralized and is not a health hazard to me or my family.
Id advise you read some threads on treating sub flooring in houses for pet urine, and find a method that is suitable for you and use that on the cabinet.
Lets face it, if its musical equipment or amp then it is gonna get exposed to moisture at some point... someones gonna unload there stuff in the rain, or its going to be in some damp basement... as soon as it is, the odors, if not properly treated, are going to come back. take your time, read the information out there, find a method that is a known documented long term solution., not s short term fix that some company "guarantees". find some evidence out ther from people who deal with this regularly.
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I think this is the stuff I used to use for cat urine. It is enzymatic based so may not work on mouse urine.
Amazon.com : Nature's Miracle Just for Cats Urine Destroyer Intense Urine Stain & Odor Remover, 32-Ounce Pour Bottle (P-5721) : Pet Odor And Stain Removers : Pet Supplies
Amazon.com : Nature's Miracle Just for Cats Urine Destroyer Intense Urine Stain & Odor Remover, 32-Ounce Pour Bottle (P-5721) : Pet Odor And Stain Removers : Pet Supplies
Never tried the enzimatic one so can´t comment on it, but ammonia and urea in any mammal pee (cat/dog/rodent/human/horse) can be decomposed (so neutralized) with lye.
Yes, this will emit noxious gases.
Problem is a lot of it will also attack presswood/MDF/chipboard so dilute it, from 1:1 to 1:5 in water and spray a little on suspect area, only enough to wet iit, then let it work a couple hours.
Repeat as needed, so you know you applied minimum necessary and no more.
If possible, let the wet area dry in direct sunlight, UV will also help kill odor.
Slow but best results,
After you got rid of 99% smell, mask residual with citric oil as suggested.
Sorry but white vinegar and baking soda will neutralize each other and become inert.
If you hate chlorine smell, peroxide is second best, but nascent oxygen is less aggressive than liberated chlorine.
Don´t think you need to go to such extremes, but if annoyed by residual chlorine smell, (which will evaporate on its own on a couple days) spray slightly afterwards with a weak sodium sulfite solution.
Yes, this will emit noxious gases.
Problem is a lot of it will also attack presswood/MDF/chipboard so dilute it, from 1:1 to 1:5 in water and spray a little on suspect area, only enough to wet iit, then let it work a couple hours.
Repeat as needed, so you know you applied minimum necessary and no more.
If possible, let the wet area dry in direct sunlight, UV will also help kill odor.
Slow but best results,
After you got rid of 99% smell, mask residual with citric oil as suggested.
Sorry but white vinegar and baking soda will neutralize each other and become inert.
If you hate chlorine smell, peroxide is second best, but nascent oxygen is less aggressive than liberated chlorine.
Don´t think you need to go to such extremes, but if annoyed by residual chlorine smell, (which will evaporate on its own on a couple days) spray slightly afterwards with a weak sodium sulfite solution.
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An even safer way is to run an ozonator (ozone generating machine) near the object. It does not need to touch the object. The fumes can be dangersous if you get too much of them in your lungs. You and every other being should be somewhere else, and this assumes you're in a house. If you're in an apartment, forget it.
But if you leave an ozonator on for a while, it will kill just about any smell on earth. I've used this several times for my house and it's as close to magic as I've ever seen.
But if you leave an ozonator on for a while, it will kill just about any smell on earth. I've used this several times for my house and it's as close to magic as I've ever seen.
Wow, I had no idea ozone was dangerous. My sharper image ionic breeze air cleaner produced ozone, apparently that was a major point in its recall and the downfall of the company.
I always liked the smell of ozone - I associate it with the Lionel trains from my youth. To me it smells clean, antiseptic. Live and learn.
What Happened to Ionic Breeze? - Air Purifier Guide
I suggest you report
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