Is there any way acrylic (plexi) can be cut w/o the use of a circular saw/table saw (fairly precisely of course)?
The thickness would be up to 1/2"?
If not, then when cutting it with a table saw, is there anything I should be worried about? I vaguely remember cutting some plexi back in high school with a normal table saw, but that was a few years ago, and I don't remember it
The thickness would be up to 1/2"?
If not, then when cutting it with a table saw, is there anything I should be worried about? I vaguely remember cutting some plexi back in high school with a normal table saw, but that was a few years ago, and I don't remember it
elizard said:Is there any way acrylic (plexi) can be cut w/o the use of a circular saw/table saw (fairly precisely of course)?
The thickness would be up to 1/2"?
If not, then when cutting it with a table saw, is there anything I should be worried about? I vaguely remember cutting some plexi back in high school with a normal table saw, but that was a few years ago, and I don't remember it
the problem with plexi is that it will melt if the blade isn't sharp and moving fast enough, and if the blades are set at an angle.
here's the suggested method from Roehm, they suggest using a straight-set carbide blade:
http://www.roehm.de/en/plexiglas/_d....tmp/322-1 Fabricating PLEXIGLAS® GS SW_e.pdf
in the U.S. I think it's Rohm and Haas.
There is no problem with cutting acrylic, any blade will do. When cut on a regular table saw it doesn't melt. Router is not that convenient, as it is slow and wastes too much material.
I was cutting up to 3" thick pieces. It's better to use rougher blade, cause it cuts faster and actually leaves nicer finish. 40 teeth or so is good. After you cut, you can finish the sides with straight router bit.
Wear safety glasses as depending on material, small chips might break away.
It is almost like cutting wood and 0.5" thickness is a piece of cake.
BTW, I'm cutting 1" copper pieces on a table saw with good results as well .
I was cutting up to 3" thick pieces. It's better to use rougher blade, cause it cuts faster and actually leaves nicer finish. 40 teeth or so is good. After you cut, you can finish the sides with straight router bit.
Wear safety glasses as depending on material, small chips might break away.
It is almost like cutting wood and 0.5" thickness is a piece of cake.
BTW, I'm cutting 1" copper pieces on a table saw with good results as well .
I've had work done by these folks, http://www.sdplastics.com/
They do good work. As I recall they only charged for the plastic. I had it cut into trapezoidal pieces with rounded corners (25mm radius). The trick is you have to buy a 48x96 inch sheet.
Their site has a good DIY FAQ.
They do good work. As I recall they only charged for the plastic. I had it cut into trapezoidal pieces with rounded corners (25mm radius). The trick is you have to buy a 48x96 inch sheet.
Their site has a good DIY FAQ.
Yeah, I read the faq earlier actually.
Looks like a good place, BUT they've a $75 minimum order
When I get some time next week I'll look into buying locally.
It seems like a good alternative to aluminum for a case for my aleph 3. Aluminum would cost me $100+
Acrylic I'm hoping to do under $50, which is what I'm looking for
Looks like a good place, BUT they've a $75 minimum order
When I get some time next week I'll look into buying locally.
It seems like a good alternative to aluminum for a case for my aleph 3. Aluminum would cost me $100+
Acrylic I'm hoping to do under $50, which is what I'm looking for
mbroker said:If just cutting straight lines you can score and snap acryllic. I've done it on 1/8" thick pieces and have talked with people who have done it on 1/2" thick pieces.
Mark
That's what I was looking for. I've read that up to 3/16" will work, but 1/2" i can see it if you score it properly.
Well the reason I ask is because I don't have any tools like band saws, circular saws, or table saws
I SORT of have access through one through my gf's dad (he's got a lot of tools) but i dno't want to bother him (even though he offered to cut the wood for me when i make some speakers!)
I SORT of have access through one through my gf's dad (he's got a lot of tools) but i dno't want to bother him (even though he offered to cut the wood for me when i make some speakers!)
I used 1/4" acrylic on an aleph-3 chassis recently and cutting it with a bandsaw (make sure you have a metal blade running fast and not bogging down or the plastic will melt), then using a combination of files and a sanding block I was able to get a very clean, straight, and square edge. I have seen that there is actually polish specific for acrylic if you need to clean it more than the sanding block can. I must tell you that I could do it very cleanly with just sandpaper though.
A blowtorch and a little practice (not that much needed IME) will make the edge almost glass-like. Just don't heat it too much or you'll get bubbles that you will never be able to remove (guess how I found out )
I'd take your g/f's father up on his offer given the other options....
I'd take your g/f's father up on his offer given the other options....
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