soldering binding posts and copper litz wire

[FrankDIY]

Hello guys, I did not post here since a while... I am in the process of finishing my Zen V4 and I have ordered Cardas binding post, RCA and copper litz hook-up wire.

The question might be stupid but do you directly solder on the post?

Also, I tried to solder the hook-up wire and I couldn't. How can I solder these wires?

thanks
Francois

[roddyama]

Hi François,

You can solder the wire directly to the post, but it would be best if you use the copper spade lugs from Cardas. You'll make a better connection.

The individual copper strands in Cardas wire is coated with urethane enamal. You'll will need to remove this coating to get a good solder connection.

[KevinLee]

Hello,

Litz wire is hard to work with. I have had to sand the coating off individual strands on a Solen Hepta-Litz coil.

I believe a solder pot would be the best way to go.

Using a spade to connect to the binding post is just one more connection. Less is better. Solder the wire directly to the post using a good quality solder and make sure your joint ends up nice and shiney.

Good luck.

Kevin Lee

[mjounot]

Francois

If you can find a solder pot,it makes it very easy to tin the ends
of your wire without the need to remove the enamel.

Michel

[roddyama]

Originally posted by KevinLee
Hello,

Litz wire is hard to work with. I have had to sand the coating off individual strands on a Solen Hepta-Litz coil.

I believe a solder pot would be the best way to go.

I've used a wirewheel on a grinder. I would use a piece of wood to back the wire and let the wheel remove the coating. I never used a solder pot before. I would guess you're right and it's the best way to go.

Originally posted by KevinLee
Using a spade to connect to the binding post is just one more connection. Less is better. Solder the wire directly to the post using a good quality solder and make sure your joint ends up nice and shiney.

Good luck.

Kevin Lee

Same number of metal to metal junctions except nothing beats a good gas tight crimp connection except a welded connection.

[FrankDIY]

Hum, I didn't know the strands was coated. I think I am gonna try to remove the coat with a sandpaper.

Soldering on the binding post is really difficult because the solder does not stick on the metal (cardas solder). I guess the binding post temperature is not high enough.

I will order some spade and hopefully partconnexion has nuts too.

[tubetvr]

Hi,

Old proven, (best?) method of removing enamel from Litz-wire:

Burn off enamel using a gas burner or a cigarette lighter, directly afterwards, (when the copperwire is still glowing) dip the wire end in alcohol, (methylated spirit or similar).

This method will not damage the wires as is easy to do with sanding or scraping and will leave the copper wires nice and non-oxidised, extremly easy to solder.

Regards Hans

BTW, what is the reason to use Litz-wire in an amplifier? I have only used it for low frequency coils and SMPS transformers.

[tiroth]

I have soldered Cardas posts fairly easily using a 100W soldering gun. The Litz is another story.

[FrankDIY]

Originally posted by tubetvr


BTW, what is the reason to use Litz-wire in an amplifier? I have only used it for low frequency coils and SMPS transformers.

This is multi strands hook-up wire, I though it would be good but I will know for the next time.

Originally posted by tiroth
I have soldered Cardas posts fairly easily using a 100W soldering gun. The Litz is another story.

Yes, I used the same tool.

[tarquineous]

Those are some good suggestions except I recommend a soldering gun of 250 to 300 watts.

Burning the enamel off is what I usually do first, especially if the wire is to small to file or sand. The Cardas hook up wire is to small to file or sand, and do not use a motorized wire wheel. You could damage the strands.

When heating with a flame, do not get the wire red hot! This will burn the insulation and damage the copper.

Instead, heat the strands until you see the enamel bubbling out. It will be dark in color. Immediately stop heating and cool in alcohol, like the other member suggested.

Now you have to remove the enamel which bubbled to the surface, and hardened. It should break off with your finger nail or a small tool.

Now put flux on the strands and twist them together. It helps to put the flux on before twisting the strands so the flux is in the strands.

Now is the time to use the heavy soldering gun, holding the wire well away( 4-6") if using your hand, or better yet, use a small vise. A soldering pot will also work, but you will have to wait several minutes for the pot to heat up.

Next, heat the strands with the gun tip hot with solder on the tip. It will take about 15 to 20 seconds for the rest of the enamel to bubble out. Again, stop, cool, remove burnt enamel and solder again. This may take two or three times and you will end up with a nice solid tinned end.

When soldering to the binding post, take off the nut. The nut absorbs lots of heat!

Good luck!