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Best way to make a super TINY enclosure?
Best way to make a super TINY enclosure?
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Old 2nd February 2014, 01:02 AM   #1
CZ Eddie is offline CZ Eddie  United States
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Default Best way to make a super TINY enclosure?

Guys, I need some ideas on how to create a very slim, tiny enclosure for some 40mm speakers. This is a DIY motorcycle helmet speaker setup.

As you can guess, while I have volume that is audible at speed, I do not have any bass at all. So I'd like to build as large of an enclosure as possible in the speaker-cavity section in my helmet.
My first thought is fiberglass, which I have no experience with.
Another thought is balsa wood.
The enclosure probably won't have any back to it, since I need to keep this as "slim" as possible. I only have ~1/2" of depth to work with.
So it'll just be an enclosure "shell" that I'll hot-glue in place, which will seal the enclosure to the helmet.
Will probably put a couple ports to add bass response, just as the original headphone enclosures use.

So, any suggestions on how to build a super thin, super tiny enclosure?!?

Here are the headphones the speakers came from.
Click the image to open in full size.

Here's the helmet with speakers not installed yet.
Click the image to open in full size.

Here's the helmet with one speaker "installed".
Click the image to open in full size.

This is how the shape of the enclosure will look.
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by CZ Eddie; 2nd February 2014 at 01:08 AM.
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Old 4th February 2014, 01:54 AM   #2
Top Shelf is offline Top Shelf  Canada
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ontario
You could try clear acrylic sheet or lexan, 1/8 to 1/4" for the baffle then use1/4" thick sections of high density felt hollowed out to form a somewhat aperiodic enclosure behind the acrylic.But it does look like the original headphone enclosure volume won't be achievable so that will shift the bass reponse somewhat.
The good thing about acrylic plexi is that it can be bent to form shapes with the use of a heat gun. You could also use a suitabley sized hole saw for the diver , then epoxy it in place... 1 minute epoxy works fast but gets warm.
Or clear silicone if you want to get the drivers out later.
Im wondering if your drivers have that microweave material over the rear sound holes . I would scrape that crap off to let the drivers " breathe".
JEREMY M_________________________________
I like it loud, BUT NOT TOO LOUD!.... Hey do you hear that high pitched ringing sound ?

Last edited by Top Shelf; 4th February 2014 at 02:09 AM.
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Old 4th February 2014, 02:38 AM   #3
Richard Ellis is offline Richard Ellis  Argentina
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mar del Plata, a BIG seasonal getaway city, can see the Ocean from our residence.
I had built virtually the same thing with questionable results a long time ago.
I had disassembled an expensive pair of Koss headphones down to the drivers and the original front baffle. Since the originals were open vent design "High velocity"(As they were described) being without an enclosure did not adversely affect the final 'sound' I put a dab of silicon to function as a strain relief, I then sewed up some denim from an old pair of jeans, creating & resembling a square denim pillow. They were thin enough so as to not notice their presence. A "new for the time" CD player in the pocket of my jacket, the wire routed inside the jacket & out the top. The CD player had a hard time delivering enough power to over-ride the ambient sounds. Now I DID have an un-faired bike....with an after-market exhaust. All in all I got the distinct impression I would need far more power & volume to over-ride the ambient in all but the quietest machines, fully faired touring types...kinda the Gold-Wing type thing.
Gold-wings weren't my style.......so I reveled in the sights, smells, sensations AND sounds sans music.

_______________________________________________Ric k.....
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