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Old 18th March 2013, 08:06 AM   #11
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Some ideas for the internal fit out.
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Old 18th March 2013, 08:30 AM   #12
Johno is offline Johno  Australia
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Have you ever been in a large anechoic chamber?
Its a disconcerting feeling, there is no aural feedback about the space you are in, it feels like a very very large space up down and sideways. Mixture of vertigo and acrophobia.

Great for open baffle - no room artifacts?
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Old 18th March 2013, 11:12 PM   #13
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Some of those design make what I had planned very pedestrian. I was planning on painting the walls a dark colour and putting in two recliners with no coffee table. A bare room except for somewhere to sit.

I haven't Johno, but I believe it can make you feel quite ill.
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Old 30th March 2013, 06:40 PM   #14
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You sound like me since i'm planning similar. You need to mention budget, it's real important. I'm considering use of things like strawbales (the hell with quietrock, these will be more effective) and earthbags but then i'm a fan of alternative construction anyways for cost, health reasons, and energy reasons. If that were inconceivable because your tastes are more upscale, I would be planning 2 inch thick Quietrock or things like 5 layers of 5/8" drywall (2 inch quietrock will beat 4 layers otherwise) with lots of green glue between it as a lower cost alternative so expect to lose a foot in every dimension of your designed room. You want a minimum STC of 60 or so (thats a 60db drop from the outside world), though you can go even further if you want, some luxury homes have 70. I'd also have dual sequential entry doors, commonly used in studios to quiet things inside vs outside. The door starts to become a weak point in sound insulation above a certain point. You can get super insulated doors but dual doors is just cheaper probably giving STC 80-90 through that sound path and is good if you take things even further or upgrade in the future since even the best single doors can't match that. You'd also want special HVAC work because sound travels through forced air ducts, and it's also a source of noise when the blower kicks in. You can easily take things beyond the above but it starts to require more intensive engineering to get much over STC 70. The above is just the minimum i'd consider for a "darn serious" home theater. Things like separate subwoofer rooms or in floor chambers and similar all add on top of this. The most important issue is room shape and size, once that's set you can't really change it. The 1:1.6:2.6 is one of the golden ratios, so your room will be at least 13-14ft wide i'd guess. A guesstimated 9ft ceiling, 14.4ft wide and 23.4ft deep gives a 3000 cubic foot theater, which is what THX Ultra2 standards are designed for. Much bigger requires either more power or more speaker efficiency to hit reference, so does wanting to play above reference. Add a foot to the studs everywhere because that's inside dimensions after all that quietrock.
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Old 4th April 2013, 02:33 AM   #15
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I tried planning the house around home theatre room, and using the rooms around it to absorb / block some sound. My partner suggested we build a prebuilt house on a large block, and I build my own dedicated home theatre room external to the house.

She has a point and it has some merit as it is hard to build a golden rule room inside an existing dwelling, that way I wouldn’t have to worry so much about different roof heights / compromise dimensions.

This is a rough idea of what I had planned for an internal build.
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Old 4th April 2013, 03:34 AM   #16
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Take some time out and go to a few live concerts in good auditoriums (auditoria?). Opera, symphony orchestral, Rolling Stones if they do an indoor gig when they get here. This is what it is meant to sound like and can be your reference point. Its quite different to what you get in a normal lounge room with ordinary 2.1 speakers. For me, playing Beethoven's Ninth with full choir only reminds me of the live experience (and I run Manzanita OBs).

Deconstruct the methodology of the good auditorium. Go look inside the Sydney Opera House. I think you will find they are trapezoidal rather than square in both the sideways and vertical profiles. Sides, rear walls, floor and ceiling all have sound reflection minimising treatments (curtains, funny shaped tiles etc) along with the trapezoidal profiles.

Which ever way you decide to go, with a good listening room design you will be so much further ahead of the game than the rest of us. So don't give up. Although with the sympathetic room you will spend the rest of you life designing and building new speakers in the search for that little bit extra.

And if it was me, I would reserve a little bit of space at the rear for the motor bikes.
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Old 4th April 2013, 03:44 AM   #17
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I read somewhere that odd shape rooms don't fix room mode issues they only shift it to a different point, but if I was to build a HT outside I could very easily taper the walls in at the back.

Don't worry the bike has its own lock up area planned. Also need room for the electric trike I am building.

Was up in Brisvegas over Easter looking for property to build on, nothing of real interest came up, but still looking...
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Old 4th April 2013, 03:52 AM   #18
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Just wondering if I did go down the route of building an external HT, I wonder how I would go building it out of the 8" besser bricks and fill the center holes with that expanding foam / dampening bats of some kind... Sydney's Besser Block Centre - Besser blocks, screen blocks, pavers, retaining walls, and more - technical information on 200mm besser blocks would make it a lot sturdier for serious bass.
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Old 4th April 2013, 07:29 AM   #19
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Just crunching some numbers to see if a golden ratio room is even possible with a large projector screen in the room.

I was originally looking at 8 meters wide, but to keep the room down to a sensible size I have reduced that to 7 meters, that gives me a length of 11.375 meters and height of 4.375 meters.

Length and width aren't major problems but the height is the tough one... Trying to build a home theatre room without it looking like an industrial building means I need to try and loose some of the height.

That gives me two options either reduce the length / width or sink the room. I think the later would be the way to go. If I sunk the room by 1.375 meters I could have a 3 meter ceiling height, the same as the room I am in.

Obviously any wall width and acoustic linings would need to be added to the outside dimensions. Also thinking that a second door would be a nice touch to help keep the noise away from the neighbours.
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Old 4th April 2013, 08:47 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silent Screamer View Post

Length and width aren't major problems but the height is the tough one... Trying to build a home theatre room without it looking like an industrial building means I need to try and loose some of the height.
G'day Silent Screamer,

Try this:
Decide on a ceiling height (h).
Width (w) = 2h x 1.618
Length (l) = w x 1.618

Cheers,

Alex
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