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-   -   Please make ship go ... (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/everything-else/227793-please-make-ship-go.html)

Daxq 14th January 2013 01:53 PM

Please make ship go ...
 
Hello all, not much of an audio-file - like messing with things a bit, but pretty much just like the plug-n-play kinda stuff. We have set up a Conference room (10x13) room with a simple Home Theater (LG LHB535) that does everything we need and it sounds great in that room. 5.1 surround sound and for listening to music or conferences (slide shows and presentations) it has been perfect. However we found that we would like to also pipe the sound into an adjoining room (a very large garage bay 28x28 with high ceiling). We are not looking for earth shattering sound, just would like to add background music for when we have larger meetings out there if the occupancy is too large for the small conference room. So we tapped into the rear two speakers of the conference room and added a Pyle Volume control PVC1 along with 2 outdoor 100w Dual speaker to the large garage bay. If we max out the volume on the Pyle - we can hear music out of the Speakers, but there no increasing the volume. And the room inside is already pretty loud. So I am wondering if I can boost the volume for the speakers outside in any way? When I asked Crutchfields, they said I needed a new Receiver $400 or an in-line amp $400. A buddy of mine said maybe I could add a Transformer like they do at bars for outside speakers and I found some inline transformers but really do not know how or what to add to the system to get this to work or if its even possible.

The LG States that its rear speakers are getting 180w x 2(4ohm peak) (of course I have split this, but the inside speakers continue to sound fine)

The Pyle control states Freq Response 20 Hz-20 kHz, power handeling 100Watts (RMS) / Channel - Attenuation: 100Watts / Channel:
1st position Full Off
2n and 3rd position attenuates 6 +/1 dB per Step
4th through 9th position attenuates 3 +/- dB per step
10th position Full On
Insulation resistance 100 megaohm @ 500 V D.C.
Dielectric Withstanding voltace 500 V AC 1 minute

The current outside speakers are Dual cheap 10-80 Watt speakers with 4-8Ohms.

I can probably swing changing the external speakers, or even adding something cheap to the line - it is also possible for me to access 110 power and everything will be in doors out of the elements. I was thinking I may need more power speakers with an inline transformer or maybe even add a transformer, but as I said - I have no clue. Any assistance with this would be greatly appreciated.

Daxq 14th January 2013 11:16 PM

Hummmm
 
Well either my Trek ref was taken out of context or maybe what I'm trying to do is just not done! For a test I hooked up some powered pc desktop speakers and they sounded great and were still able to control from wall - kind of a bummer they would sit there eating power waiting to be used, but I expect that's what they do on a desktop!

DUG 14th January 2013 11:49 PM

"The current outside speakers are Dual cheap 10-80 Watt speakers with 4-8Ohms."

Are they 4 ohm or 8 ohm?

If the original rear speakers ore 4 ohms already then that circuit should not be loaded further...not even with 8's.

Why not switch the rear speakers between the main and small conference rooms?

Daxq 15th January 2013 12:09 AM

Ohms
 
says on the rear of the speaker 4 - 8 ohms I did try swapping the interior speakers with the exterior and got the exact same phenom.

DUG 15th January 2013 02:25 AM

Have you tried to get rid of the Pyle Volume control PVC1 and just try a switch between the two speaker sets?

Daxq 15th January 2013 02:40 AM

Tried
 
Well I did try removing the volume control and wire the speakers directly - and they worked the same as if the vol control was on max. The best action I got out of things was when I hooked up the Harmon/kar desktop speakers that were powered themselves and then I maxed the vol on the speaker and was able to control it with the wall controller. I think I need to find myself some powered speakers to hook up in place of the no powered ones I have now.

dangus 17th January 2013 12:11 AM

Old stereo receivers can be bought for next to nothing. Even AV receivers with Dolby Digital (mine cost me $20 from a thrift store). Some of those include outputs for a second zone.

Another option might be to run a car amp from a computer power supply. I've seen car amps for $5 to $15 at yard sales.

Finally, there's Tripath class-D amps that do around 10 watts (same as a "high power" car head unit); under $10 shipped as a board, or $20 with a case and volume control. Search ebay for TA2020, TA2024. They'll need a 12V power supply, preferably around 5A, which could be another $10 from eBay if you can't scrounge one up.

And really finally, some powered subs could be turned into full range speakers: bypass the high-pass filter, and add a tweeter.

kelticwizard 17th January 2013 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daxq (Post 3326265)
says on the rear of the speaker 4 - 8 ohms I did try swapping the interior speakers with the exterior and got the exact same phenom.

You might want to find out the ohms of the speaker anyway.

Since you say that even though you are not an audiophile but you are the kind who doesn't mind messing around, I wonder if you have a multimeter?

They can be had in chain hardware stores and Wal-Mart for about $10 if you want to purchase one.

If you do have or obtain one, set it to resistance and take one of the speakers, unhook the cables, and measure the resistance between the speaker's terminals.

If the resistance is 5 or greater. you have an 8 ohm speaker.
If the resistance is 3 or less, you have a 4 ohm speaker.

When the speaker starts actually playing, the ohmage goes up 25% or so, but you can't measure it easily while it is playing. :)

Daxq 17th January 2013 02:32 PM

Awesome - great Ideas!
 
What I ended up doing was this:

I ordered a LP-2020A+ mini amplifier with Power Supply ( Amazon.com: LP-2020A+ Lepai Tripath Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Mini Amplifier with Power Supply: Electronics ) and decided I was going to boost the power before the wall switch. With this little bugger, I actually am going to remove the wall plate altogether and just use this as the on off volume bass and treble - then I can power the speakers on or off as needed (which is part of the reason I avoided the powered speakers, for this size room I wanted the speakers higher than someone can reach to turn on or off). And then a friend of mine explained the difference between Line out signal and the signal on the speakers them selves, which prompted me to get this ( Amazon.com: Scosche Loc80 2-Channel Adjustable Lineout Converter: Electronics ) Scosche Loc80 to use before the AMP. I get that it is only 8o watts per channel, and should have gotten the larger one, but I did not realize it until after it was already shipped - so I will see how it does. I am hoping in the end I will decent background music for when we hold larger events out in the second room.

Any comments/suggestions/concerns are greatly appreciated, as I truly think this should work but certainly do not know.

When I determine the Ohms of the Speakers, I will post! Thanks for the info on that too!

Daxq 17th January 2013 02:42 PM

Speakers
 
On the Rear of my speakers, I have:
Dual Model LU43PW
Nominal Impedance 4 - 6 Ohms (looked like an 8 while hanging)
Reommended Amp power - 10 to 80 Watts

And I hooked the Multimeter up to it, and put the dial on the Omega symbol and get a solid 3.5 (it is a digital Auto meter and as I look at it - it actualy is bouncing from 3.6 to 3.4 mainly staying on 3.5).


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