Alright, I'm pretty sure this has been covered before, but for the life of me I can't find the thread. Sorry if this is repeat.
Is there an easy alternative to clear anodizing that will protect aluminum from fingerprints? I am going for a brushed look (that I'm going to get using sandpaper), but I don't want my grubby fingerprints all over my newly finished case.
Anodizing is too expensive (and not easily available in my area). I don't really want the gold look of alodine. I have tried spray laquer, but this gave me a frosted finish that kinda ruined the look of the aluminum. I don't really know what to try. I have heard car wax, or shoe polish, but I'm not too sure these would work.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Wes
Is there an easy alternative to clear anodizing that will protect aluminum from fingerprints? I am going for a brushed look (that I'm going to get using sandpaper), but I don't want my grubby fingerprints all over my newly finished case.
Anodizing is too expensive (and not easily available in my area). I don't really want the gold look of alodine. I have tried spray laquer, but this gave me a frosted finish that kinda ruined the look of the aluminum. I don't really know what to try. I have heard car wax, or shoe polish, but I'm not too sure these would work.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Wes
Auto lacquer
You could try auto lacquer. It is supposed to give a clear shiny finish when dry. Alternatively use a polyurethane clear lacquer with a thinner that evaporates slowly. That way even if you brush paint it the surface should even out before it dries. I wonder if PU lacquer for wood would be good enough. With a thinner it should dry slowly.
Let me know what you have tried. I am interested in the results.
Cheers.
You could try auto lacquer. It is supposed to give a clear shiny finish when dry. Alternatively use a polyurethane clear lacquer with a thinner that evaporates slowly. That way even if you brush paint it the surface should even out before it dries. I wonder if PU lacquer for wood would be good enough. With a thinner it should dry slowly.
Let me know what you have tried. I am interested in the results.
Cheers.
When done properly, alodine is not really gold. It has goldish shine, but it's very subtle and is more like currently popular champaine finish on some Japanese high end equipment, which can be really appealing.
Also, the surface of the metal doesn't show the additional protective layer (like anodizing). It can be good and bad. It's nice, because metal is still in it's natural state (sort of like using sealer on wood, but not laquer), but it's completely not resistant to scratches.
I like it on my monoblocks, and whoever saw it, likes it too, but I guess it's a matter of taste as well.
If you want less of gold finish, after alodining you can brush it again (with Scotch Brite pads) and virtualy remove all gold residue, but still leaving the protective finish. It almost looks like matte finish, but slightly warmer than raw aluminum.
Also, the surface of the metal doesn't show the additional protective layer (like anodizing). It can be good and bad. It's nice, because metal is still in it's natural state (sort of like using sealer on wood, but not laquer), but it's completely not resistant to scratches.
I like it on my monoblocks, and whoever saw it, likes it too, but I guess it's a matter of taste as well.
If you want less of gold finish, after alodining you can brush it again (with Scotch Brite pads) and virtualy remove all gold residue, but still leaving the protective finish. It almost looks like matte finish, but slightly warmer than raw aluminum.
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Thanks Peter,
The reason I didn't want a gold look on the chassis was because I am planning on making feet, as well as a portion of the face plate out of brass and I thought the silver vs. gold contrast would look cool.
Since you have some experience with this, what are your oppinions on how this would look with the alodine. Would the two shades of gold make it look cheap? Anyway, I suppose that I will probably end up brushing off the gold color.
BTW, what are the hazard/disposal warnings that come with this stuff and do you know the best way to dispose of it when I'm done?
Thanks,
Wes
The reason I didn't want a gold look on the chassis was because I am planning on making feet, as well as a portion of the face plate out of brass and I thought the silver vs. gold contrast would look cool.
Since you have some experience with this, what are your oppinions on how this would look with the alodine. Would the two shades of gold make it look cheap? Anyway, I suppose that I will probably end up brushing off the gold color.
BTW, what are the hazard/disposal warnings that come with this stuff and do you know the best way to dispose of it when I'm done?
Thanks,
Wes
Here's one more close up of how gold compares to pale alodine finish. By brushing it off you will achieve even lighter color. It all also depends on the solution and how strong it's made.
Recently, we orderd powder alodine from this place http://www.airtechcoatings.com/index.html and you could ask them about safety issues. So far I didn't dispose any of it as it's in constant use.
If you never alodined anything, use a scrap piece before. One local forum member was alodining last week, but it seem like his liquid solution was too strong and he was not that happy with the finish (too dark and not uniform). But he managed to brush it off almost completely. Still, you can tell the metal is protected somehow.
Recently, we orderd powder alodine from this place http://www.airtechcoatings.com/index.html and you could ask them about safety issues. So far I didn't dispose any of it as it's in constant use.
If you never alodined anything, use a scrap piece before. One local forum member was alodining last week, but it seem like his liquid solution was too strong and he was not that happy with the finish (too dark and not uniform). But he managed to brush it off almost completely. Still, you can tell the metal is protected somehow.
Attachments
you can use lye solution
after sanding the aluminum parts, you can immerse it in a lye solution, it is described in my 1961 edition of ARRL handbook, i have done it myself several times, not only will it remove stains, it will also give your aluminum a matte finish depending on the length of time you soak it.....
after sanding the aluminum parts, you can immerse it in a lye solution, it is described in my 1961 edition of ARRL handbook, i have done it myself several times, not only will it remove stains, it will also give your aluminum a matte finish depending on the length of time you soak it.....
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