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#1 |
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Dimitris
diyAudio Member
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I have been reading/looking for a nice finish for my flexy rack and finally decided to use oil.
The only one I could find on the local market was Teak oil. I got two cans that seemed "decent" on the outside Unfortunately none of them specifies the ingredients, so I have been looking for ways to tell what to expect from them. I have to say here that I am not particularly experienced in woodcrafitng and what I write below is completely from my observations. Feel free to correct or add to my rant. The first indication I guess should be the smell. Both of them had a very strong thinner smell, but the one had a distinct waxy scent as well. While reading on inet, I came accross a page where the writter (sorry I do not remember the page) suggested to get a few drops on a non-porus surface like a glass and let it dry. After the thinner evaporates, the remainder should be either oil or wax or varnish. You can see below the results of my oils after 24 hours on the glass. This one is sticky to the touch with no oily feel to it. And from its color, I get that it s probably just plain thinned varnish, with minimal or no oil at all. It s smell (almost gone now) is still quite bad. Not from the thinner and not oily or waxy at all. ![]() The other one, (the one with the waxy scent) is not sticky at all. It has dried and left a rather elastic solid that feels like wax. Its smell (rather faint again) feels oily and waxy. ![]() So I think I have found my winner on the second one... I hope this helps someone else. Of course again, I am by any means a professional or even particularly knowledgeable about woodcrafting, so please feel free to correct me or leave your own tricks on how to tell which mixes are legit |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: mississauga ontario canada
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If you list the brands and types that you tested it would indeed help other people so they would not have to make the same test.
Just a suggestion
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Doug We are all learning...we can all help |
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#3 |
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Dimitris
diyAudio Member
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About the type, I mentioned that both are Teak oils. Now about the maker, the test is pretty simple so I didn t thought it would matter a lot.
The first one is Duro Stick Teak Oil (made in Greece) and the second is International Teak Oil (Made in UK) |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Just a quick point, the formulation of the oil is likely comercially confident, so won't be published on the can. However you can use this to your advantage, as different brands may be suitable for different woods.
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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It may not be on the can, but you are entitled to a copy of the MSDS. It won't have complete formulation info, but the solvents and any hazardous ingredients will be disclosed. That will give you several clues.
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If there's a sucker born every minute, where do the rest of them come from? |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Is that the same as our COSHH documentation SY?
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#7 |
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Dimitris
diyAudio Member
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I applied a layer of the second one by cloth and it dries too fast feeling sticky... It seems it is more waxy/varnishy than oilly...
I will have to work with much thinner applications wiping them off fast |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Probably part of that program, but the document you want is still called an MSDS in UK and Europe. If it's not packed with a chemical, you can demand it from the manufacturer or the agent who sells the product.
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If there's a sucker born every minute, where do the rest of them come from? |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Quote:
__________________
Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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