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Old 21st October 2003, 12:26 AM   #11
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430 is my favourite adhesive, if I want to have the parts connected quickly (and reasonably strong).
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Old 21st October 2003, 12:28 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by Peter Daniel
Unfortunately I never glued aircraft parts. I only used some structural adhesive (generally 2 parts epoxy) and cyanoacrilate in my projects. The last one is pretty convenient, but indeed brakes when given a sharp whack.

You might try some construction adhesive, which is more flexible. Most of them adhere to metals and they are pretty strong.

Thanks, the words "structural adhesive" is the key. Following it
I found this interesting link:

http://www.loctite.co.uk/literature.htm

For those interested, the .pdf "Structural Bonding Solutions" is a mine of informations, along with many other documents.

ciao,
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Old 21st October 2003, 12:28 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sch3mat1c
Just use epoxy.

As with any glue the metal has to be immaculately clean for good bonding, like that it should work pretty well; but you can go it one better with aluminum: wet some sandpaper (80~250 grit) with the mixed epoxy (you wouldn't want to use 60sec. stuff here! ) and sand both mating surfaces until they've been evenly abraded. Make sure the metal surface never gets exposed to the air, keep a film of epoxy on it. Clamp the surfaces together until the epoxy sets. Don't worry about grit in the joint, think of it as filler - and they make plenty of filled epoxies.

Tim
both Boeing and Airbus (and Northrop-Grumman, General Dynamics if you know what I mean) use high-tech glues from a company called Cytec -- this was the original American Cyanamid which was purchased by American Home Products in 1994. (American Home Products is now Wyeth). There is also a Dutch company which has #2 market share. These are low volume, very expensive products.

glues have replace welds because of much lower resistance, a lesson we could all learn from. in fact, they almost seemlessly glue a polyamide substrate onto the bottom of F14's (Top Gun) for resistance to flak.
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Old 21st October 2003, 12:35 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by jackinnj

glues have replace welds because of much lower resistance, a lesson we could all learn from. in fact, they almost seemlessly glue a polyamide substrate onto the bottom of F14's (Top Gun) for resistance to flak.
And, of course, since many modern aircraft, at least military ones,
like the swedish JAS are mainly made from composites rather
than aluminum, welding is not an option. Not that welding
aluminium is very easy either AFAIK.
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Old 21st October 2003, 12:36 AM   #15
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Your other concern should be the clamping. If you don't hold everything just right while the adhesive is setting, then you lose a lot of your strength right there. I know you want to glue, but would it be possible to drill some holes and screw it together after applying the adhesive. The screws will clamp it during the setting.

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Old 21st October 2003, 12:45 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMT-freak
How big is the area the glue will be distributed on? What forces do you expect?


The area is a perimeter of 40x100mm, with a contact area (the thickness of the perimeter) of 4mm all around. The aluminum plates (one in front and one in the back of this extruded and hollow bar) are also 4mm thick. The back plate has a 12mm hole where goes (tigtly) a mains power cord... The front one hosts just a led, so no big deal. The whole assembly is about a foot long and hosts a main filter. It will be almost filled with epoxy resin and is not going to be very light. No big forces, really, but when in user hands I learned not to undervaluate the term "impossible"

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Old 21st October 2003, 12:54 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by purplepeople
Your other concern should be the clamping. If you don't hold everything just right while the adhesive is setting, then you lose a lot of your strength right there. I know you want to glue, but would it be possible to drill some holes and screw it together after applying the adhesive. The screws will clamp it during the setting.

ensen.
Screws would be the best way, but if could use screws in the first place I would not bother at all about glueing the parts...

ciao,
Roberto Amato
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Old 21st October 2003, 12:55 AM   #18
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Default brazing?

How about brazing? Sort of like soldering with a blow torch. I don't know about availability in your neck of the woods but I can pickup low-temp brazing rods and a brazing torch for about $50 from my local hardware store.

I haven't tried it yet but it seems like that would be the way to go.
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Old 21st October 2003, 12:56 AM   #19
OliverD is offline OliverD  Germany
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The 4mm thickness doesn't sound good to me. Not a big area for applying glue especially if a mains power cord is fixed to the plate.

Assume a user dragging the device around or even letting it hang from the power cord. You never know

Isn't there a possibility of fixing the power cord to the tube and only cutting a hole for it in the plate? Or, if you're gonna fill the inside of the tube with resin anyway, couldn't you use the whole 40x100mm area for glueing?
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Old 21st October 2003, 01:00 AM   #20
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Unless your tube is machine cut, it will be difficult to prevent a gap with the bar stock. Can I suggest some small pieces of 90deg angles to create more bonding area. More importantly, the surfaces will all be flat.

:)ensen.
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