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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Hello, I have a niles ZR-6 unit that came in for repair, upon opening it up, from what it looks like i found two vertical toroid inductor chokes completely burnt everything else appears to be OK on the power supply board. How do i go about finding a replacement for these ? I cannot find a part number or anything. Any help is greatly appreciated!
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
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Make your own. The cores are unlikely to be damaged so just rewind them.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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thats kind of what i figured, it looks like just wire around the ferrite core. It looks like those were coated with an enamel at one point does that really matter ?
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yes the enamel does matter. Otherwise the wire should simply short out on the ferrite core. The enameled wire is commonly known as "magnet wire."
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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So if i wanted to just order a couple of these, and based upon the picture what is the actual part name i would need to order ?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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The wire wrapped around the core is 16 gauge
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: UK
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As the wire is wrecked. It's easy to ascertain what you require.
FIRST and MOST IMPORTANTLY, count the number of turns and the direction of the turns (not important in a singular winding but VERY important if there is more than one winding) Once you are happy with how the thing is built just snip the ends of the coils and count the number of turns. With the scrap wire, wind it around a suitable former (ie a pen) and measure the length of 10 or 20 turns, the more the better. Then measure the length of the winding. If 10 turns measures at 19mm then the wire is 1.9mm. Simply buy the same wire and rebuild it. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Bradford
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Winding a toroid is a pain. Looks like there's not many turns though.
Use a pencil or similar as a shuttle. Calculate how much wire you need, wind it onto the pencil so it fits through the toroid with plenty room to spare. Avoids tangles. Or you can make a split bobbin to fit around the core, wind on the required number of turns by turning the bobbin, cut the wire, and then unwind from the bobbin onto the core. Avoids calculation and kinks. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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thank you guys for all your help so far, i replaced two chokes, but the unit still won't power up. Everything else visually looks fine. I noticed that the heatsink with a FET attached to it gets hot fairly quickly. I'm not sure how to proceed from here so any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Rob |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Hopefully this picture will help atleast a little bit. How often to the flame proof resistors break? I can't seem to get a reading on them with the DMM. I've read that they act like fuses, so im thinking one or both of them are shot since the toroid that exploded was pretty much right next to it.
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