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#11 | ||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Quote:
If I'm not mistaken, those are Li-FePo (sp?) which have a slightly lower energy density, slightly lower voltage (~3.2V) but much safer (less fire hazard and more stable) and much more charge cycle life. |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
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Yeah, that may be correct, don't recall off the top of my head. The are A123 type, I think.
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
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There are lots of lithium cells out there with different chemistries.
The easiest cells to manage are the 'protected' tubular cells such as 18650, 16340 (CR123) and 10440 (AAA). They have a low power circuit built in which disconnects the output at ~3V, preventing over discharge. You get no long slow tail-off, so you don't get the option of discharging to the point of destruction, which could be a disadvantage in an absolute emergency, but for an audio device, what emergency? You can get them from dealextreme or ebay. Most batteries (cell packs) are happiest when 'balanced', but balancing is not absolutely necessary. You can series charge 3 of these cells to 12.6V under a constant current/constant voltage regime leaving them installed and simultaneously run the device from mains power using the charger to supply power. There's a constant current/constant voltage circuit in the LM317 datasheet. Last edited by counter culture; 2nd February 2012 at 11:31 PM. |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Tampa, Florida
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Well I'm pretty satisfied I can pull this off with some precautions. Ands the little 500mA IMax charger I bought seems to charge my 12V pack fine overnight, without even noticeably warming them (Cool = GOOD I think!).
Now, can anyone recommend a low power circuit for detecting undervoltage, so I'll know when discharge has reached the approximate 10V point where its time to stop using my batterypack? I thought this would be so easy... an OP-amp comparator with a resistor voltage divider on one input, and a similar divider with a zener diode on the other. Trouble is, at least the zeners I have on hand require a good 40mA or more to stabilize thier rated zener voltage, and that's 40mA totally wasted IMHO! I'm sure there are chips for this, but maybe there's an easier makeshift OP-amp circuit I could use? |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Tampa, Florida
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Well on that last topic, here's a useful circuit I've found as a low voltage detector. It's a starting point. The author apparently is using some very high brightness LEDs, presumably to be able to see the low voltage indication from the ground when flying an RC plane. For me, a little 2mA LED was sufficient for my Guitar Amp (low voltage warning). So in my case, R5, D2,D3 and D4 were eliminated, and R4 was anywhere around 4.7K worked fine. If you only have a 20MA LED, you may have to go as low as 470 ohms. I also used 2N2222 transistors, since I have so many of them. Finally I used 10K instead of 1K for R3, because I AM using such a low current LED and I just don't need very much current amplification. Plus, the 10K resistor results in only about 1mA wasted to run the circuit in its usual non-alarm state vs over 10mA. The other values shown for R1 seem "about" right, but I used 10K for a my 3 cell monitor. With the other changes I mentioned, this will cause the alarm LED to come on when the 12V pack gets to about 9.2 volts.
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#16 |
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Banned
Join Date: Jun 2011
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I was thinking something along the same lines.
Some of the ones for R/C planes etc have a "home" type feature that reduces your speed down to half, giving you enough time to get the model back safely. These circuits are built into the speed controller, although I have seen a stand alone version similar to the one you are describing. |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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How can they sell something that when it malfunctions, it is a Class D fire so you had better run? Because everyone else does.
Although quite entertaining to blow up, generally speaking they are fairly safe if they have overvoltage/undervoltage cut off for each cell (each one!) They also should have vents in them that rupture if the pressure inside gets too high from overcharging/over discharge or thermal runaway. The reason those Sony cells started on fire was due to an internal short as there was metal shavings in the electrolyte which would cut through the plastic after expansion/contraction from cycling the batteries. If it has an internal short, no protection devices will work (called Battery Management Systems or BMS) The cells internally short to themselves, it creates heat rapidly goes into thermal runaway and boom. They don't call it "explosion", the term is "violent venting with flame" ![]() Much safer is Lithium-Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4) VS Lithium-Cobalt Oxide. You can shoot a hole in a LiFePO4, crush them, short the terminals together and it might vent a bit--won't blow though. The cell phone type have a flammable metal and and oxidizer mixed together--they used to call those solid fuel rockets. The Volt used LiMn batteries, better than LiCoO but can burn if you do something stupid and use electrically conductive coolant (when dried) and give it to the government who would crush it and turn it upside down for 3 weeks. Chevy is switching to A123 Systems LiFePO4 so the LG Chems are heading to the sunset. I like LiFePO4 batteries, I've been using the A123 versions for the last 5 years plus with my DeWalt 36V tools. They throw out the current, light weight, as long as you charged them in the past 6 months or so--they hold their charge and I've had no issues. So if LiFePO4 batteries can take 3,000 cycles, heat does not bother them, they won't explode, nothing toxic in them, should last 7 to 10 years at least and (in bulk) cost less to make than LiMn/LiCoO/LiPo.... they should of taken over the market quickly. Not so fast...here are the downsides They are 3.2V and not 3.6V like regular Li cells. It was easy to change from NiCd/NiMH cells since they are 3.6V for three of them. It costs money to change the design for the different voltage. They don't have the same watt hours by weight/size as regular lithium cells, it is about 25% lower. Most consumers would rather risk blowing their body parts off than have a slightly thicker phone or a little less runtime. The Tesla roadster used over 6,900 Sony laptop cells--heck of a battery management system to keep the pack alive. One cell goes into thermal runaway which causes the cells around it to go...and so on. The new models are going to run LiFePO4 cells, much better performance, longevity, cycle life and it won't explode. To remember how to take care of batteries, remember it this way. Only car batteries or lead-acid likes to be trickle charged or charged to 100%. ALL other batteries should never be trickle charged or kept at 100% charge. For long term storage, lithium chemistry prefers to be kept at a 40 to 60% charge level. One last tip, don't use regular lithium batteries in a sealed metal device--like a flashlight for instance. They make a really big mess if they ever vent violently with flame and will take chunks out of cement etc. If you have an afternoon to blow and would like to learn more about fun with batteries, here is the site. Basic to Advanced Battery Information from Battery University It is owned by Cadex which makes battery chargers/conditioners/analyzers for all sorts of cells. |
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