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Old 10th December 2012, 07:37 PM   #11
srinath is online now srinath  United States
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I certainly did not, and its sitting in the "I am giving up" pile.
Cool.
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Old 11th December 2012, 09:04 AM   #12
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have you ask there?
http://www.myboserepair.com/bose_wave_radio_repair.htm
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Old 11th December 2012, 09:24 AM   #13
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No display or functions suggests to me that it might be a digital problem, ie a processor is kaput. Have you tried injecting a signal to the analog section?
Just guessing... I've only seen these things in the ubiquitous advertisements.
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Old 11th December 2012, 11:50 AM   #14
srinath is online now srinath  United States
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Default Did that

Quote:
Originally Posted by sofaspud View Post
No display or functions suggests to me that it might be a digital problem, ie a processor is kaput. Have you tried injecting a signal to the analog section?
Just guessing... I've only seen these things in the ubiquitous advertisements.
I did, still not make sound.
I'll look into that "myboserepair" page.
Cool.
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Old 11th December 2012, 11:54 AM   #15
srinath is online now srinath  United States
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Myboserepair is a repair store, I didn;t ask there, they obviously are into repairing these professionaly. I am not that certain I wanna spend 99 bucks and 2 way shipping to fix this bugger, I have other clock radio's I can use.
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Old 4th January 2013, 06:49 PM   #16
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Default fixing

Some people must know the fix for these as even the non-working models are selling for a ridiculous price on eBay. I wanted to pick up a dead one, for a few bucks, so I could gut the electronics and hook up a T-Amp board I had laying around, just for fun.

I know, I’ve got way too much time on my hands.
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Last edited by tamasic1; 4th January 2013 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 15th January 2013, 11:38 AM   #17
Ears2U is offline Ears2U  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by locked88 View Post
I have a unit with the same problem. No display or functions but you can hear the audio amp glitch when you unplug it . Did anyone come up with the fix?

locked88
I had (have?) the same problem...Mine's a Series 2 Wave Radio, 3 AAA batts for standby. The battery contacts were clean, no leakage. I put in new Energizer alkalines that worked fine for maybe 2 weeks, then the display and functions petered out dead again. Just now replaced with Duracell alkalines, and it came back to life again, for how long I don't know. Will post again if and when it dies.
Thanks,
Ears2U
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Old 6th December 2013, 02:52 AM   #18
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Default Bose Wave Radio 1996 Model

Replace Q1 or do what I did much better solution.
Q1 dies it is a 2SC1394 or similar NPN 1 watt transistor.
When it shorts out however it takes 2 resistors with it. Its a voltage splitter off the 10V regulator, so it creates 5V to run the set.
Since the resistors are surface mount, and its a pain to remove them and replace, here is a much cheaper solution.

Find a used Cell Phone wall wart charger. Dis assemble it, and inside is a small circuit board, with leads going to the 110V ac plug. Cut the leads off the AC plug, cut the wires leave 3-4 inches or so, use to wire the 5V output in place of Q1. Q1 is located next to the bridge rectifier. you need to remove it. Wire the red +5v wire from the cell phone pcb, to the hole closest to the rear of the radio. (Hole located toward heat sink). Or you can also wire it to Pin 15/16 of IC601 to any point in the set that the 5V is present.

I then wrapped the wall wart board in insulating cardboard, paper or just use Gorilla Tape and wrap it up good so it will not short out (ever). Mine had an LED I let that stick out to indicate it is working.
I then stuck it between the transformer and the heat sink, you could hot glue it into place if you wanted. I then wired the 119V leads to the bottom of the AC pins where the transformer (2 pin plug) goes to supply 110v to the wall wart charger board). reassemble making sure nothing is forced into place.

Now here is a link to the PDF file if you want to try to just fix it using the normal parts. Bose WaveRadio1996 Service Manual free download,schematics,datasheets,eeprom bins,pcb,repair info for test equipment and electronics

In that same site is all the BOSE schematics for all the Bose products.

Here is what I find too funny. I called Bose before I discovered the schematic and asked them where to get a schematic.

They said, OH that is HIGHLY CONFIDENTIAL information and not available to the public. Instead he offered to sell me a newer model at a much reduced cost. Not interested. $150 is a bit too steep for a clock radio, no matter that it sounds great.
(Even though it does have a CD player in it).

I almost want to call them back and explain that the information is online.

Another probably much more effective way, would be to replace the Q1 with an LM7805 Positive voltage regulator. Wire left pin to the Center pin of Q1 (Collector) which is 20V but passed thru 50 ohm resistor, wire right pin to the same pin facing to rear of the set toward heat sink which is 5V output, and wire the center pin ground to any closest ground point. I would solder to one of the shield cans. Or the bridge rectifier pin that is ground I think but check with ohm meter is the pin closest also to the rear of the set. Insulate or isolate the LM7805 IC to prevent shorting anything in the set.

I would go this route as it is an obvious weak link in this set.
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Old 14th January 2014, 09:25 PM   #19
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kb50

Could you maybe post a photo of this? (the method you tried) I have the same problem with mine. No power but it makes static noise when you unplug the unit.
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Old 20th January 2014, 04:17 PM   #20
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For anyone who stumbles upon this thread, I had the same problem with my Bose wave radio as described by the OP. The radio was completely dead but it would make a static noise when you unplugged it. After some research from this thread and many others I did some testing and found that my Q4 transistor had shorted. I guess this is a common problem for these units. The Q4 transistor 2SC3792 is under built and shorts between the emitter and the base. You can test this with your multimeter between the two outside pins. If you read anything around 0-3 Ohms you have a short. Bose recommends a replacement part and you can look that up if you want but it’s difficult to find. I used a 2SC2655 and my problem was solved. I’m not saying this is the only thing that could be wrong with your unit but it’s easy enough to test.
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