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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NY State
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FWIW...
I got suckered into getting a "Garrard Zero 100" when they were first released many years ago. While they were an interesting enginering concept to maintain tracking angle, those bearings do give unexceptable friction. A high end phono cartridge of the day (Stanton, Shure, etc.) would not track a record properly unless more than opitimin pressure was used. So I quickly got rid of it and got a Thorens turntable Last edited by JoeDJ; 14th July 2011 at 02:35 AM. |
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Quote:
I don't think it came fitted with anything as standard, but that may vary around the world. New stylus could be expensive or even worse somewhat cheaper and a nasty generic, usually a clunky Shure fitted. I'd recommend replacing the cartridge, this classic is great value : Audio Technica AT 95 E / AT95E Tonabnehmer Or possibly the Red Ed elliptical : Ed Saunders Red Ed Cartridge Would be worth giving the turntable a service once over before starting. rgds, sreten.
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There is nothing so practical as a really good theory - Ludwig Boltzmann When your only tool is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail - Abraham Maslow |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Thanks Mike. Sounds like it has gotten easier. I did a good bit of it about 11-12 years ago and it was a royal pain. I used same software as SofaSpud - Goldwave - back then as I do now. It's made a good bit of progress since.
The right software could be a huge time saver, so it's good to know what's out there and what works well.
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Minneapolis, Minnesota, USA
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Hi Pano,
Groove Mechanic works very well, the de-clicking algorithms are the most effective of anything I've tried. Having said that, it still requires some time and effort to get the best results. Of course the condition of the record will determine how much effort will be required and how well it works. I've also used the wave editor function in Exact Audio Copy for de-hissing and trimming the silence at the beginning and end of the tracks with good results. And yeah, the album/track naming thing can be a royal pain in the posterior. The easiest way I've found is to go ahead and rip the vinyl to the hard drive and do the clean-up and track splitting thing, then burn it to a CD and use EAC to access fredb/database to get the names. At that point, I either just use EAC to re-rip to the hard drive and delete the original tracks, or manually copy and paste the names. Any way you do it requires some time and effort. Mike |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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You need a RIAA phono in amp then headphone or line out then consider EMU0404 usb unit. It has excellent ADC's. I would store PC files at 24 bit depth 96K.(flac or wav)
You could burn to cd at 16bit 44.1K or to DVD or bluray at 24bit 96k If you use software check that it is 24bit capable. You will need a 24bit PC soundcard, eg M-Audio Delta Audiophile 2496 pci Last edited by hotironsmoke; 30th August 2011 at 02:09 PM. |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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sorry forgot to mention I use Audiograbber (free) to record line in to .wav
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lisbon
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i use Wavepad to boost the cd levels (.wav files) to use in the car. never used it for vinyl , but you can record 44 to 192khz files.the free version allows record and some effects
Audio Editing Software. Sound, Music, Voice & Mp3 Editor |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver Island
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If the UFO202 is like the UCA202, it has a fairly nice TI USB codec. The same chip is used in some much more expensive products.
A better choice may be the ART V2 USB Phono Plus DJ Preamp; about twice the price, but it has a gain control so you can optimize the recording levels. Toslink and line input and outputs could come in handy too. It may well use a TI USB codec since a number of those support S/PDIF I/O. Last edited by dangus; 12th September 2011 at 05:57 AM. |
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