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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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its really good at etching anodized aluminum. if you ever need a face plate or something customized, i'm your man. the thing is just sitting there most of the time, lonely, with nothing to do. i'm goin' take some pictures tomorrow...
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donuts |
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#2 |
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Warp Engineer
On Holiday
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50 Watts CO2 with the right optics should be good for cutting right thru blocks of Aluminium not to mention flesh etc. That's a dangerous piece of machinery you have there.
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- Dan |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
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I once worked a place with a 25W CNC laser engraver. At about $500 per watt how can you possibly afford one on a DIY budget? Never mind... sometimes I buy tools just to have them, with no specific purpose at the time of purchase. Heh!
Anyway...my experience is that metals don't easily cut with this type of laser. For that, you need a YAG (Yttrium argon gas) based laser. I recall that they are really good at cutting through organic material such as plastics, wood-based and VOCs like paint, epoxy, etc. When you talk about etching, that is only for the natural Al-oxide surface and not the actual alloy. Also, some materials cut more cleanly than others. Acrylics, ABS Corian, wood, paper and paint-coats are great for slicing through. I think that PC and PE are less friendly to the beam. We were pretty careful, and never bypassed the safety mechanisms. Could you imagine getting your finger in the beam? Or worse, having it reflected into your eye... the thought still scares the poo out of me. Travis, I assume that you've had some training on it so this next part is FYI to everyone else who may not know... It is almost never necessary to dial up the unit to maximum power. Often, the focus on the lens and the type of material requires considerably less power. Imagine the kind of localized energy with a 5W beam of .008" diamter typical. Also, there is likely some kind of fume ventilation system as the vapourized plastics and VOCs can provide quite a hazard. Anyone with a request should really be prepared to repay him for his risk and electrical utilities. Wish I could have brought the one owned by my ex-boss home with me. Although, if I asked, he might let me use it just to see what I was up to. Regards, :)ensen.
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Those who claim to be making history are often the same ones repeating it. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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it can't cut metal, no. cuts wood though. i used it to dove-tail all the joints in this box (quarter inch mdf). it automatically turns off if you open the lid. its my parent's laser. they kind of have a home business.
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donuts |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
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Quote:
Al/ "No Mr Bond, I expect you to die!"
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Al I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Eugene, OR
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I'm interested. Do you have a photo of a finished panel?
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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donuts |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Editor
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Francisco, USA
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I think you just might get some interest around here.
The subject of getting decent looking labeled faceplates comes up often. It's possible to buy 19" wide aluminum rackmount faceplates anodized black. I'll bet that would work well. Can your machine accomodate 19" wide? The graphics don't necessarily have to be 19" wide, but the panel would have to fit into your machines' box I guess What fonts do you have available? Or can we supply a graphic file done on something like Freehand, Autocad, M.S Word? Pretty cool machine! Does it pay for itself? |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
we use corel draw around here, which i'm sure can import pretty much anything. the table is 24" wide and 18" high. i'm thinking about learning some autocad so i can make the super accurate drawings.
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donuts |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Editor
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Francisco, USA
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I use Autocad a lot. It is the only program of those mentioned that Corel might not work with. Do you have ACAD?
Can you use ACAD drawings? |
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