|
|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
| Everything Else Anything related to audio / video / electronics etc) BUT remember- we have many new forums where your thread may now fit! .... Parts, Equipment & Tools, Construction Tips, Software Tools...... |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Brazil
|
I'm modifying my apartment, and everything will change. One if them is the AC wiring.
Where I live (Brazil) we have what we call 3-phase wiring, that is we have three live wires and a ground. Combining one live and one ground wire you get 110v, if you combine two live wires you get 220v. On my past two houses I assembled it in such a way where I would put all high-current stuff (washing machine, fridge, etc.) on one wire, computer on a second and audio/TV on a third. AC units are 220v over here, so I would wire them accordingly, on separate protection switches. There's some advise I would be grateful to have on two matters at least: 1) What wire gauge should I use for the audio/TV wiring? 2) As I am considering buying my wall apppliances in the US, what brand and type would you recommend? Any best place to buy them? Thanks, Carlos |
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
|
You may have your terminology off a little. You say you have three phase, but the system of 110/220 you describe is split single phase. Both of these systems are 3 wire plus ground (with some three phase systems being 4 wire plus ground). A three phase system will have line-neutral (ground) voltages differ from line-line voltages by 1.732. So a three phase system would be 120/208, not 110/220. So the first thing you need to do is resolve what you actually have to work with.
That being said, your general best bet is to load your system in a balanced manner, which is better for voltage drop and better for the utility grid. So putting all high current loads on one leg sounds good, but doesn't really provide any benefit for your audio system. There are advantages to placing sensitive loads on their own breaker, or in the extreme using an isolation transformer for that circuit, but we're talking an apartment here (which to me implies renting). As far as wire gauge, just follow the NEC. An A/V system does not draw that much power, such that an increase in wire size will significantly affect operation. If you are dealing with a 500 foot run let's discuss. Appliances, a can of worms. All I can say is avoid Viking like the plague. Worst quality and customer service, although you pay three times as much for the same hardware. |
|
|
|
|
#3 | ||||
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Brazil
|
Thanks for your advice.
Quote:
Quote:
Some load will be on separate breakers, like air-conditioners, but not the rest. What I will try to provide are separate breakers to audio, TV and computer. What I do not want is noise or spikes coming from home appliances polluting those more sensitive lines, or RFI coming from the computer affecting audio/TV AC lines. Quote:
The apartment is 110 square meters, and I don't know much how that is in US feet. By my counts I shouldn't exceed 100 feet for any wire run, I think, maybe 200 Ft.. Quote:
|
||||
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Lakewood, Ohio
|
"NEC" is the US National Electric Code. 2008 is the current version but 2011 will be out soon. This rule book is well over 800 pages long. Most of can be found searching the web.
Jim Brown of Audio Systems Group (also a AES committee chair) recently released an international version of his paper on audio systems and AC power. http://www.audiosystemsgroup.com/SurgeXPowerGround.pdf
__________________
Kevin |
|
|
|
|
#5 | ||
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
|
Quote:
Quote:
|
||
|
|
|
|
#6 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Metro Washington DC
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
|
precise indeed, error less than 26ppm.
__________________
regards Andrew T. |
|
|
|
|
#8 | |
|
diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: The Netherlands
|
Quote:
A good read, thanks !
__________________
It's only audio |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Metro Washington DC
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Brazil
|
|
|
|
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
|
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| AC wiring heaters, A or B ? | zigzagflux | Tubes / Valves | 10 | 4th July 2008 09:43 PM |
| WTB: Analog AC Ammeter - AC Voltmeter - Panel Mount | dBfreak | Swap Meet | 1 | 16th March 2007 10:41 PM |
| Overvoltage on house wiring | Bama Slamma | Everything Else | 15 | 30th November 2006 03:45 AM |
| PS question- Need to get 20V AC from 60V AC - w/o Trafo | lgreen | Pass Labs | 9 | 2nd January 2004 10:31 AM |
| HUBBELL IG3800 clones? AC sockets /AC wire | jasonruiz | Parts | 5 | 25th April 2003 10:21 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.12260 seconds (82.29% PHP - 17.71% MySQL) with 10 queries |